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Old 30th September 2012, 10:39 PM   #18481
lymmlad is offline lymmlad  England
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Could someone please help? I was attempting to understand what was required for the mods to the output stage from Brent's list (below) and was working my way through the circuit diagram:

Lets assume we are removing the HDAM section that ultimately holds back the performance of the cd player.
Remove C611, C612, C613 & C614 and replace with something like a Rubycon ZA / ZLG 16V 470uF
Remove Q605 & Q606 and replace with a LME49720HA or Burson dual
Short out R613, R614, R61 & R616
Remove R651, R652, R653 & R654
Remove the muting transistors
Remove R617 & R618 and wire from this point direct to the output socket
Change the signal capacitors around the opamp with something like a polystyrene cap

Could someone please help me understand the final statement on the list and let me know the component numbers and values of poly caps required? Also did I read something on this thread somewhere that the caps should be matched very closely?

Thanks very much.
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Old 1st October 2012, 03:29 AM   #18482
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If you look at the service manual there are some small value caps in the filter around the op-amps. The values are all measured in pF rather than uF. They're film caps in the CD63 - brown or orange blobs if I remember correctly. You'll see them if you take the lid off. C601 - C604 are some examples - the full list is in the datasheet. I swapped those for 1% silver mica in my player.
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Old 1st October 2012, 06:52 AM   #18483
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Up-Date. Since adding the regs (fancy and standard) and ripple eater (see my previous posts) I can say that in the week or two since these were done the 63 is now sounding really really good. Much more substantial, more coherent and the rather glassy treble (forward?) is mostly gone.

I might now add a separate PS for the regs.
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Old 2nd October 2012, 12:56 PM   #18484
rcfm2u is offline rcfm2u  Malaysia
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Looking for help in repairing my CD63 tray problem. Each time I press the tray open/close button (and even by using the remote open/close button), the tray comes out half way and then goes back in again. I don't even have the chance to put a CD into the tray. Sometimes the tray comes out fully, and I can put in a CD for listening. But the problem starts again when I want to remove the disc. Pressing the open/close tray will cause the tray to come out halfway and then goes in for no reason.
Any particular component that might be causing this problem? I've tried changing the belting, but the problem is still there.
Ron.
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Old 3rd October 2012, 08:20 AM   #18485
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Is the tray position switch working correctly? Inspect the switch and completely clean and re-lube the tray mech. Also, is the drive belt correct. If it is slipping, it will behave like this.
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Old 3rd October 2012, 09:05 AM   #18486
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Usually when it is the belt they struggle to load and show 'DISC' on the display.

I would look at the switch under the tray first. Remove lid and push the tray in and out manually. If everything seems fine then it's the switches

Brent

Last edited by Fidelity Audio; 3rd October 2012 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 3rd October 2012, 01:03 PM   #18487
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Hi,
Just out of curiosity, can BG NX .47uf/50V be used in CD05 and CD06 and 220uf in CD04 and CD07? Or removing CD04 and CD07?

Thanks
Badri
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Old 3rd October 2012, 01:18 PM   #18488
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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No reason why not, but you want the smaller value closest to the chip. You may not gain anything. You could try the 220uf in their original position and the .47uf in place of the .1's. remember the nx will be polarised where the .1's were not!
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Old 3rd October 2012, 01:31 PM   #18489
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NX are not polarized mate. They are very good decoupling caps. I personally prefer PPS though.

Brent
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Old 3rd October 2012, 01:36 PM   #18490
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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;-) just checking!!! Lol

Never owned any so just assumed they were polarised !!!!!!
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