Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1829 - diyAudio
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Old 11th July 2012, 10:05 PM   #18281
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Clocked the dac and the servo laser went bezzerk.
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Old 12th July 2012, 06:08 AM   #18282
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Lots of things can cause this, Alan - (I have first-hand experience of a few!) - startup delay, loose clock connection, broken pads on certain capacitors... Is clocking the DAC all you've done?

Btw, did some more op-amp cap rolling. I realized I was missing some HF detail with the 470uF BG STDs I was trying so put the Ns back in with some of those WIMA MKS4 220ns tagged across them for kicks. I like the Ns much better overall. The WIMAs don't seem to be doing any harm on first listen. I've previously tried tagging some 100n of the smaller, cheaper kind across before and hated them.

I'll need to work up some courage to try the DOS again, Ray. I've simultaneously got a sound that I like and a working display for the first time in ages.
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Old 12th July 2012, 06:54 AM   #18283
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Yes, you'd better be careful... these players are delicate creatures. The board traces are clearly not made for multiple soldering attempts.

But you can also test the DOS board outside the player. Just hook it up to a +/- supply and use the line-out from your player as a signal source

Ray
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Old 12th July 2012, 08:40 AM   #18284
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Oh, really? I had no idea that the DOS would work with line out instead of the symmetric DAC outputs. Which input pins do I hook up? Thanks!
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Old 12th July 2012, 09:37 AM   #18285
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Yes it does, it's just a circuit that sums two signals and amplifies it a bit. The passive filter at the input smooths the PWM square wave that comes out of the DAC.

But you can also use a line signal at the inputs to check the circuit. Just connect one output of the player to +In and GND and there should be signal at the DOS' output if all is working as it should. Then connect it to -In and GND to see if the other half is working. Don't connect them simultaneously, because they will cancel out and you'll hear nothing . You can adjust the volume with the player's remote in case the input signal is a bit too loud and you hear distortion.

Ray
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Old 12th July 2012, 01:21 PM   #18286
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Hi all, sorry to bring up what I'm sure is in the thread somewhere. (Have been trolling through for days but have not found it yet).

I have done the usual PS cap and diode upgrades, various EL caps around the rest of the board, the opamps, removed headphone feed, (It works up to here), have just removed muting transistors (do I need to do anything else with these except remove?) and have now removed the DC blocking caps.

My question is with the DC blocking caps and C660/C659 removed, do I just run a jumper from C656 through to start of R660? Also, if I don't upgrade R660 per Ray's mods list will it still be ok with the existing value? I haven't yet bipassed the HDAM as I was waiting til after the clock upgrade. (hopefully next).

I also made the mistake of starting from the....well...start of the thread and then realised Ray had updated his list. Have just ordered the 22000uf PS caps to replace the ones I have already replaced. Serves me right for ordering before reading...

Thanks

Kris
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Old 12th July 2012, 07:56 PM   #18287
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@Ray: Thanks, that makes sense. I'll let you know how I get on!

@bousie: Assuming you've upgraded op-amps, output filter and PSU caps, I'd say get yourself a some quality RCAs and some good signal wire (I use CMC 805 and Kimber TCSS), remove the thin wire bridges that take signal to the HDAM section and wire straight from there. Remember to disconnect the power to the HDAM. You might as well cut the signal trace that leads all the way down to the headphone socket while you're at it. Make sure you measure DC offset before you connect to amp though, or add some good film caps. I use 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oil.
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Old 12th July 2012, 10:27 PM   #18288
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I think it's c901 & 902 that cut the signal to the headphones from memory.

Yep just checked. Also remove U271 & 272 to remove power from the headphones opamp.
You should also remove the 4 psu supply resistors to the HDAM if you are bypassing it R651-654.
This will mean the +/-12v rails are now only servicing the opamps. The opamps should also be swapped for lm4562 or lme49720 with ZLG 470uF local caps (c611-614).
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Old 12th July 2012, 10:45 PM   #18289
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Mk3 attempt sounds nice but no clock as yet i think the clock is faulty as last attempt sent the servo crazy ? replaced crystal and r126 and it fine im stumped .
any ideas guys .
alan
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Old 12th July 2012, 11:01 PM   #18290
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Is it possible to check the clock ive disconnected the tx and checked the voltage output from the tx that ok So im 99.9% convinced its the clock at fault .
alan
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