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Old 18th June 2012, 03:04 PM   #18221
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Originally Posted by Thomo View Post
Alan, did you not receive my email a good while ago?

Lee.
Lee,
did u pm or email cos i diddnt get either. ordered 10 nichicons of rs be here in the am @ birmingham rs.
thanks tho lee
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Old 19th June 2012, 10:33 PM   #18222
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fit 6 regs 2 each driver ic and 7 nichicon caps on the digital late finish so no results yet. getting there.
alan
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Old 22nd June 2012, 09:44 PM   #18223
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Fried my main player ohh well start again error code10 Why do i mess sounded great too.
alan
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Old 22nd June 2012, 10:06 PM   #18224
lymmlad is offline lymmlad  England
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Thought I'd post an update as to how my mods were getting on... me being a rank amateur and all that. This might be a confidence-booster for others whose knowledge might be limited. Fortunately a poster on here, who lives not too far away from me, kindly agreed to help me through this.

My plan is to work through Ray's list. I have a KIs.

My guru emailed me a list of parts (he said to start with the power supply) and I bought them from Farnell and RS. Pity you can't buy what you need – in some cases you need to buy a min. order of 5 when you only need 1!! (Maybe I'll mod a few more CDPs later on when I get the hang of it. )

I also bought a flea with parts and a DOS board from Ray's site. These will be parked temporarily for later on in the project.

So I bought all the stuff and went round to my guru's house one evening. He showed me how to remove the circuit board, how to use my new digi multimeter (yes, I'm that thick!), explained where the parts went – but I'd located most of 'em beforehand on the circuit diagram, and pointed out that caps have + and - and to get them the right way round. He then de-soldered 1 cap for me, removed it and soldered 1 in place (with a capacitor connected to both legs on the solder side of the board – I hadn't expected this). We put it back together; it worked and he left me to it and then he buggered off on holiday.

I had been practising my de-soldering and soldering skills on an old tuner circuit board for a few weeks beforehand and this bit didn't frighten me.

So, the next Friday evening I approached the task with some trepidation. I planned to replace:
C803/804
C805/806
C811/812
C813
C814
C815
D801...804
D811...814
D851/854
DN01/02

So, 21 parts in total (some also with the additional caps between legs underneath). I made a start by removing the circuit board – bloody difficult to unhook the cd drawer assembly from the switch at the back. I worked through Fri evening and again on Sat evening 'til late and completed the job. After each part that I fitted I tested it with the multimeter – bloody useful tool!

One problem I had was when I applied too much heat when de-soldering and I burnt 1 of the metal rings and the ring came off. I tried soldering the new cap but couldn't get a good connection. I thought I had, but the multimeter said otherwise. So I hard-wired a piece of wire taken from my 'practice' tuner pcb and this worked. Somewhat agricultural?

I also accidentally scraped 1 of the solder tracks when clipping a capacitor's legs down to size after soldering. Drat! Again there was no continuity so I phoned a friend who told me to place 2 small pieces of wire (leftovers from the cap legs) to bridge the gap along the track. After a bit of fiddling this worked.

I checked everything before re-assembling (that bloody cd tray again!) and with heart in mouth switched on...

Yes! The light came on! And it worked. I listened and was not too impressed, although this did not surprise me since stuff needs time to settle in. So I put it on repeat play and left it for a few hours.

So the verdict...
the upper bass bloom has gone (which I quite liked) so in some way it has lost this pleasant characteristic which also seemed to make the sound stage bigger. The mid is a smidgeon clearer and the bass is less 'boomy' and there seems to be a touch more space between instruments. So, not jaw-droppingly better, but logic and a knowledgeable friend tell me that I am doing the most important stuff first which means that what I do later will have an even bigger impact.

Onward and upwards. Oh, and a massive thanks to my guru who is helping me and of course not forgetting the inspiration provided by the many contributors to this thread!
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Old 22nd June 2012, 10:50 PM   #18225
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikeral10 View Post
Fried my main player ohh well start again error code10 Why do i mess sounded great too.
alan
Not fried I doubt, will be something silly like incorrect pin connection on the neg regs you've put in for the driver IC's or a rail missing. Post a couple of pics so we can see what you've done
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Old 22nd June 2012, 10:55 PM   #18226
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Hey Alan, I was exactly where you were about a week ago. That wasn't the first time, either. I played whack-a-mole with broken traces for ages before finally it came back to life sounding better than ever. (Amazingly, the pre-reg smoothing cap on the negative output rail had snapped free causing that hum I was on about.)

Get the board out again and check for broken pads around the decoder, DAC clock, etc. Check the voltages to the driver ICs and check the driver reg ground pins aren't floating. You'll fix it and it'll sound better than before, I'll bet.

Good luck,

Ben
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Old 23rd June 2012, 10:48 PM   #18227
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Default fried player

Checked for faults found cracked track on c803 a toasted cap on c805 to many repairs done on board, RIP mk1 atempt. Salvaged clock and all i could start again.
Need to plan better i started as a noob had fun loved the sound i got can do better no will do better.
alan
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Last edited by bikeral10; 23rd June 2012 at 10:51 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 23rd June 2012, 10:51 PM   #18228
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next patient a virgin cd63se mmm roll on sunday am
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Old 23rd June 2012, 10:58 PM   #18229
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Salvage what you can, buy a faulty one on eBay and know that you've learned loads on the way. I killed a couple with relentless soldering and re-soldering. You'll get an SE for sub £50 if you are patient. I paid £35 for my last SE and it was working! You dont need to pay the high prices for a KI, you'll remove all he did anyway! lol
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Old 23rd June 2012, 11:51 PM   #18230
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Default cd6se3

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Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
Salvage what you can, buy a faulty one on eBay and know that you've learned loads on the way. I killed a couple with relentless soldering and re-soldering. You'll get an SE for sub £50 if you are patient. I paid £35 for my last SE and it was working! You dont need to pay the high prices for a KI, you'll remove all he did anyway! lol
Ive got a few players here ian ki as the standard a lightly modded 63 and a boxed 63se my next victim lol, ive had fun and met nice ppl on the way.
beers takin over alan
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