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Old 10th May 2012, 08:55 AM   #18151
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That's impressive. I won't ask about the economics of it, but I personally really like building things myself for the Lego factor.

The 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oils in my amp really were a huge improvement over the 10uF Black Gate ACs I had in there before. I'm still working on the assumption that I don't need another pair 0.5m of cable away.

Well I'll deffo do the micas, but mmmm... Z-foils... PCX is in Canada, and they have sales... Tolerance is only 1% though. Are the RC55Y not better due to their 0.1% tolerance?

Lots to learn. Thanks.
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:21 AM   #18152
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Lots of effort in the regs but not massively expensive in parts. Very rewarding to build your own on decent PCB after years of vero examples!!!

If you have the caps on the input to the amp, you dont need them on the output of the player. However, be warned, with no caps on the output of the DOS there will be significant DC present.

Those Z Foils come in various tolerances down to 0.005%!!!!!

http://www.texascomponents.com/pdf/I..._Precision.pdf
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Old 10th May 2012, 07:00 PM   #18153
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
Most important for the DOS are decent regs (thats not 317 type!!!)

Seriously, I've just put 9 of my regs in a 67 for a pal that had the usual cap treatment along with a clock, clock psu and output stage upgrade. It was really quite something.

If you want really hi-end, you need decent regs ;-)
I was going to fit a further reg near the crystal (no super duper clock fitted yet) as per the Acoustica info. Was not sure where the +/- & Grd tracks are. If you have fitted 9 and more of these, do you have details of where they go (or where you have put them)?

Rob.
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Old 11th May 2012, 06:04 AM   #18154
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Hi Rob, in a 63, there is the potential to split all the power supply rails out. I think i got up to 21 on my 63 before an intermittent fault caused a rebuild which is not yet complete. A good place to start is on the DAC which could have 4 independent regs. You need the service manual to look at the pin connections and tracks. A low noise reg on that DAC analogue is a good place to start then DAC digital. Later you could split these into ana L and R and 2 separate dig. Each device fed off the 5v rail can be fed individually. Often fed via a low ohm resistor, you can replace the resistor with a reg. you can also regulate the servo driver psu. I used 6 SPowers run from a large va psu for this.
Output stage (DOS) 4 (6) regs
DAC 4 regs
Decoder 3 regs
HF amp 1 reg
Servo IC 2 regs
Servo drivers 6 regs
Transport 1 reg
VRef and remaining 5v 1 reg
That's 22 or 24 if you pre reg the DOS PSU!

Look at Brent's build doc on his site. All the details are there ;-)
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Old 11th May 2012, 09:01 PM   #18155
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Cheers.
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Old 12th May 2012, 10:03 PM   #18156
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Guys,

Just started modding my 67se problem is I want to bypass the HDAM, I cant seem to find R617 on the PCB? I've even scanned the service manual and cant seem to spot it, perhaps its because its late!! So far as I understand to bypass HDAM it I have to remove

R651/2/3/4
R617/R618
RH23/RH24

Anything else? I've only read the first 100 posts so I have some way to catch up Thanks for your patience
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Old 13th May 2012, 09:45 AM   #18157
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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To bypass the hdam, you need to bypass the actual hdam circuit. Removing a few components will not just bypass the circuit. What else have you done to the player do far? It probably not a good idea to start with the hdam bypass.

The bypass involves linking the output of the opamp stage directly to the player out. Forget r617 and 618 (617 is under the left channel hdam cover) remove the links u216 and u217 this will give separate the opamp from the hdam. This is where you pick up the output (closest the opamp). Behind the hdam, remove the 4 elna silmic caps. Link the output from the opamp directly to the left most hole where the caps were.

So thats
Link u216 hole closest the front to c658 left hole for the right channel.
Link u217 hole closest the front to c657 left hole for the left channel.
You can remove r651 to 654 as this will remove the power to the hdam
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Old 13th May 2012, 02:48 PM   #18158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
Forget r617 and 618 (617 is under the left channel hdam cover) remove the links u216 and u217 this will give separate the opamp from the hdam. This is where you pick up the output (closest the opamp). Behind the hdam, remove the 4 elna silmic caps. Link the output from the opamp directly to the left most hole where the caps were.

So thats
Link u216 hole closest the front to c658 left hole for the right channel.
Link u217 hole closest the front to c657 left hole for the left channel.
You can remove r651 to 654 as this will remove the power to the hdam
Well it's a stock 67SE, this is my 1st attempt at modding a CD player, my domain is usually decks. The only thing I've done so far is to change the power chord with a screen Isotek Elite lead. I'll be dampening the chasis & strut bar with some bitumin pad is I get chance next week. So just to recap

U216/217 out
R617/618 - FORGET ABOUT
R651/2/3/4 - I'll take these out!
C655/6/7/8 - out (the slimlic caps)

I've just got one question and again forgive me for seeming a little slow. I've added a Schematic graphic on this reply. The red crosses are the components which I'm gonna remove for the HDAM bypass, but can you check that I'm linking the output of the opamp stage directly to the player out. So, on R216 I'll be soldering a small piece of silver wire (teflon coated) from the posterior most hole in R216 to the leftmost hole where C658 used to sit for right channel output, and from R217 I'll be soldering another silver wire from the posterior most hole of U217 to the leftmost hole of C657 for left channel output. I hope this makes sense.

I'm hoping to also looking into disabling the headphone circuit (removing C901/902 & U139/140) and also disabling headphone muting circuit by removing QN05-QN08, QN25/25/91/92 and RN27/28. These are mods as detailed in the PDF by R.A. van der Steen. I was looking at doing several mods at once whilst I had the PCB dismantled.
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Old 13th May 2012, 02:56 PM   #18159
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Your blue lines are connected to the wrong end of the links (need to closest to the opamps) you removed but other than that it's fine. Personally, I would not remove the muting to start but it's very easy to remove the headphones feed as you describe. To be honest, unless you replace some caps in the psu and local decoupling to the dac and opamp then change to opamps to lm4562 or similar, you will make it sound worse by just bypassing the hdam.
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Old 13th May 2012, 03:44 PM   #18160
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Minor tweaks like removing headphones and swappng the mains cord will not prep the players for HDAM bypass. I would do op-amps, filter caps and seriously beef up PSU caps first.
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