Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1780 - diyAudio
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Old 4th January 2012, 08:46 AM   #17791
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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The servo driver ic section is different in the 67. That's what the additional 5v reg is about on the heatsink in the middle of the board. You could use an additional tx for this supply for sure. I'd go for about 50va with a 22000uf smoother there
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Old 4th January 2012, 10:15 AM   #17792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
The servo driver ic section is different in the 67. That's what the additional 5v reg is about on the heatsink in the middle of the board. You could use an additional tx for this supply for sure. I'd go for about 50va with a 22000uf smoother there
Ok thanks.
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Old 4th January 2012, 10:29 PM   #17793
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Do any of you guys think coax from my clock to dac/servo will help only using silver wire @ the mo.
alan
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Old 4th January 2012, 11:15 PM   #17794
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Dependant on length, I doubt it will make much difference. I normally use miniature coax grounded at the clock end only but as I say, I doubt you would ever be able to tell the difference!! ;-)
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Old 4th January 2012, 11:24 PM   #17795
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I've no idea whatsoever, but maybe well-screened silver coax would be best. It certainly sounds like it would be good...
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Old 5th January 2012, 06:55 AM   #17796
rcfm2u is offline rcfm2u  Malaysia
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I've done some mod (all from the good advice from this forum) on my Marantz 63 output stage after the op-amps & also by-passing the HDAM. I also removed the two 220uf capacitors before reaching the RCA output connectors. My player already sound fantastic. However will there be further improvements if the two100 ohms resistors & muting transistors are removed?

I recently bought a used Cambridge Audio AZUR 640C V1 and found there are also capacitors & a resistor immediately after the output of the op-amp pin 7. I thought of improving it as well like the Marantz CD63, can it be done??

  • Can I actually remove the capacitors & resistor? Can I then connect the op-amp pin 7 direct to the RCA output? Any damages??
  • What’s the purpose of the switch over contact (to ground), also connected to the RCA connector?
Looking forward to the help & fantastic advice from this forum!



Thanks & a Happy New Year 2012 to All!!!!
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Old 5th January 2012, 08:27 AM   #17797
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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You need to measure for any DC on the output before the caps (as you say on pin 7).

Assuming there is no DC or at least no more than a couple of millivolts, they can be removed safely. If there is DC present, you should replace with a 4.7uF MKP or better (Ampohm, Mundorf etc). The problem with most of these caps is they are fairly large by comparison. Generally speaking any electrolytic cap in the signal path is bad for audio (this includes xovers too!!!)

When you say switch to gnd, is that on the centre of the RCA? If so, that will be for muting.

There are a few threads for that DAC on the forum but the core principles are the same for everything!
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Old 6th January 2012, 09:26 AM   #17798
rcfm2u is offline rcfm2u  Malaysia
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Great advice, will surely do some measurements for DC.

Yes the switch over to gnd is wired on the center of the RCA. So, it's for muting!

Thanks once again for the info. Will update this forum on how my Azur 640C sounds after mod!
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Old 7th January 2012, 05:28 AM   #17799
quan is offline quan  Australia
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Hi guys, just a question re disc readability of the marantz. My modded 67cdp played with copy CDR of katie Noonan with ease but can not play the original disc. It gives an almost whirling static noise when playing original disc. Is there any reason for this? Laser mech?
Quan.
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Old 7th January 2012, 10:17 AM   #17800
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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How is the surface of the original disc? Does it play other originals?
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