Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[Ben Hanke]

If you buy from eBay sellers in China, check their feedback rating first. The reputable ones will often have a feedback score of hundreds, thousands or even tens of thousands. If their feedback is in the low tens and their user name is alphanumeric gibberish then they could be selling fakes. I made that mistake before. If in doubt, use a reputable online store closer to home like Farnell.

If I were you, I'd get a whole new laser assembly VAM1202(?) for ease of fitting. It's a bit more fiddly to do the laser pickup alone. With a newer part, you'll get the bonus of being able to play a wider range of discs that the original couldn't manage (like CD-Rs).

The op-amps are the little 8 pin chips in front of the HDAM modules. Use a solder sucker to remove, and be really careful - you want to make sure ALL the solder is off before you try to pull them out or you'll trash the tracks. Maybe practice on some less fiddly two-pin components first. The traces around the op-amps are very fragile.

I fitted sockets and have LM4562HA on little BrownDog adapters. If you use sockets, you can try different op-amps on for size, and you don't have to worry about damaging the chips with heat when soldering them in.

Hope that helps.

[deanbo2]

right i've found some info on soldering/desoldering opamps-seems straightforward enough,so i'm ok on that but these adapters? whats the advantage of using them? are the opamps then push-in for easy substitution?
i've found the opamps on the board c605 c606 by the HDAM circuitry surrounded by some uprated caps and found lots on ebay.read thru the thread again and i've got it sorted as to which opamps to get now.
is IC1 c605 and IC2 c606?

just tracked down the dc blocking caps.thats pretty easy just got to get me head around the seperate clock and psu next cos the HDAM bypass is pretty self explanatory.

i may go further depends really i've only got an old nad 3020 which must need re-capping[found the stuff on that looks easy it's an amp lol],going into a pir of mission 773e's and i'm not exactly in love with the sound.hopefully modding the 67se and recapping and modding the 3020 will liven things up a bit

[UV101]

Buy a laser from the UK. They are cheap enough here now. I'm sure I saw them for £20 on eBay. Also just measure the belt. It's a sundry part and I doubt you'll find the measurements anywhere. When I worked in the repair shop, we just laid the old belt on top of a potential replacement to see if it was suitable (unless you has a full service kit like on vcrs and tape decks!!)

[Ben Hanke]

The advantage of the adapters is mainly for ease of substitution as you said, so you can try a few kinds and see which you like best. It means you only have to solder those delicate PCB traces once, and then you can swap chips as many times as you like. I soldered my first replacement op-amps directly to the PCB with no problems, but then I decided to change them again and I got several lifted pads the second time.

[UV101]

I always use high quality 8DIP adapters for the same reason as Ben ;-)

There's a guy lasers in London for £14.99 or best offer at the moment if anyone interested.

[poynton]

Originally Posted by Ben Hanke

If you buy from eBay sellers in China, check their feedback rating first. The reputable ones will often have a feedback score of hundreds, thousands or even tens of thousands. If their feedback is in the low tens and their user name is alphanumeric gibberish then they could be selling fakes. I made that mistake before. If in doubt, use a reputable online store closer to home like Farnell.
................ .

Ain't necessarily so !!

Sometimes the unscrupulous vendor will pad out his feedback score by false trades with his "friends".

Some of the worst scam artists had very large scores after months.


andy


.

[Ben Hanke]

This is the reason why we can't have nice things.

[NinoSimona]

You can also look for a cheap second-hand marantz player with an original VAM 1201 drive. The cd43, cd53, cd63 and cd67 all have the same drive. I bought a defective cd43 recently for parts. Now I have an original working cd-unit and the two ribbon cables for display and drive as well, wich are easely damaged when often detached. I cleaned the cd drive and greased with molykote.

[Ben Hanke]

I wish these talented counterfeiters would turn their hand to manufacturing some ribbon cables for us instead of faking lasers and op-amps...

[Ben Hanke]

I tried to regulate my driver ICs last night, with mixed success. I got two done, thanks to Ian's close-up pics and another helpful diagram I found on here somewhere, but I had no luck with the pair closest to the mechanism. Could someone do me a favour and tell me where to plug those guys in?