Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[bikeral10]

Originally Posted by Ben Hanke

Hey Alan, I've not clocked anything yet but I'm moving up to it slowly. I bought a Flea PCB from Ray. Are two separate clocks preferred, or is it better to divide the DAC clock by two?

I have big caps on PSU and the 10 regs I mentioned, plus I'll be doing the driver ICs. I have good op-amps (LM4562HA bypassed with film caps).

Idle disc spinning is getting faster the more I take off the main 5v regulator... not really causing problems, but odd :-/

Best with two clocks if poss with own psus ,My clock is a cheap 16/8/4 mhz output taiwanese jobby but it works great.only 25gbp small torrdial 12v ac out job done. big cap after reg not good.
have fun alan

[gareth]

Originally Posted by 6h5c

P122 is a bit general, isn't there a specific error number in the display? There's a list in the service manual, maybe this can point you in the right direction.

Ray

HI Ray,

I see what you mean with the extra Tx's needed for the valve output stages which is why I liked the idea of trying some of the professionally made (for the music industry - no less) products. They are priced very well considering they are fully built and all you need to do is apply a signel and away to go !!!

I have been looking at one in particular made by 'Studio Projects' called the VTB1. It costs €115 and is fully adjustable with Class A to B variable biasing, phase adjustment, gain adjustment and all the other functions expected of a professional grade tube pre-amplifier. Being a mono device though I would need two of these so the price then increases but the fact that it is already to go and would give an idea of what a 12AX7 valve output would be like and then maybe I could try one of my own. There are much cheaper makes available as €230 just to 'give an idea' is a bit pricey. Sorry guys, I know that it is not DIY but my thinking was to give an idea before I went out and DIY'ed.

In respect of the clock design Ray I have also discovered another couple of designs. One is a 4007 Complimentary MOS design, another uses a 74LSxxx Schmitt device and there are variations on these too. I have found out some books that I once used when I studied my Degree in Computing which is what I first studied when I left Secondary School twenty years ago and having passed the Degree I decide to look elsewhere for work and later studied Electrical Installation, after working ion the electronics industry for Pace satelite TV systems, (varied career here but all in the same sort of fields) to become an electrican no less (don't ask), so I have been re-reading some of my old textbooks to reacquaint myself with some digital techniques to hopefully put out a first rate clock. Some of what I have read regarding Bitstream techniques and PCM etc etc has been invaluable in ideas I have now regarding clocking techniques, dsign and construction.

Sorry if I am rambling here a bit and going slightly off-topic but i had previously promised to put up the circuit schematic for a clock based on the 4007CMOS and will do so along with some other designs to which I have the mathematics for.

Thanks for bearing with me and giving your time, designs to follow once I have got them all together and am confident.

Cheers
Gareth

[RCruz]

Originally Posted by Ben Hanke

C815? I think I have 4700uF there. Is that too much?

Hi Ben

No it is not too much.
I had the following combo there for some time:
580000uF Sprague powerlytic+470000uF NEC supercap+3600pF ERO KP1832 5% 1.2kv+2700pF NSF Styrofoam + 3u3 AVX Tantalum (This modd further improves transient response.)
For practical reasons this setup was replaced by a 10000uF BHC

When I had the 1Farad combo, after switching off the CDP, the CD spinned for more than 10 seconds at high speed.

Now, with the 10.000uF it does turn a bit but slowly and after two or three revolutions it stops

[Ben Hanke]

Originally Posted by bikeral10

big cap after reg not good.
have fun alan

Is the idle spinning disc a known issue related to too large a value cap in C815? I have 4700uF there as per Ray's mods list, and Brent apparently has 10,000uF. What do you have there Alan? Thanks for your help.

[Ben Hanke]

Thanks for your reply, Ricardo. Wow, you really went to town there. My disc behaves normally when I turn the player off, but it turns slowly in stop mode. If I stop it with my finger then it will stay still, most likely due to friction, but then if I nudge it a little bit it will start turning again. It's not really causing problems, but I wondered if it might be indicative of some other problem elsewhere. Thanks all, I'll keep quiet about it now as it's not really a serious issue or of much general interest :-)

[UV101]

Originally Posted by Samuel Jayaraj

2SC2240 could be replaced with 2SC1841 or 2SC1845 and 2SA970 could be replaced with 2SA992. They are more modern devices and have a very low Cob.

Can't see any of those devices available from either RS or farewell in the UK!

Got all the bits to build up my dos now. I've not soldered much in yet because the 4700pF and 680pF micas will need some special attention to mount tidily!! Hopefully I'll get some bits done this weekend. ;-)

[Fidelity Audio]

I think your iPhone predicted the farnell wrongly there Ian lol

The mica fit really easily. Luckily ray fitted extra pads for different caps and they fit at 45deg angles

Brent

[UV101]

Bloody iPhone!!! Tapatalk is ace tho!!

Those mica's are massive!!!! I can't see how they'll fit at the mo but one things for sure, they are going in!!!!! ;-)

Farnell farnell farnell farnell farnell. I think that should have adjusted the dictionary!!!

[6h5c]

Originally Posted by Fidelity Audio

With these tweaks I am leaning towards saying the Dos is now better than my old one! I of course have to run it at home for the proper test but i'm sure the CFP has made improvements to overall transparency and drive.

Brent

Hey Brent,

Looks like you've got the new DOS sorted now, that's good to hear! Thanks for all your hard work. Of course it had to be better in the end

I'll be doing some desoldering myself soon, to test the A970 and C2240. I have plenty of them left salvaged from 'old' HDAM sections . In the meanwhile, feel free to experiment with it everyone, this is good stuff!

Watch the pinning though, the BC550/560 are C-B-E and A970/C2240 are E-C-B.

Ray

[Fidelity Audio]

Originally Posted by UV101

Bloody iPhone!!! Tapatalk is ace tho!!

Those mica's are massive!!!! I can't see how they'll fit at the mo but one things for sure, they are going in!!!!! ;-)

Farnell farnell farnell farnell farnell. I think that should have adjusted the dictionary!!!

Lol. No we will always remember the error ;-).

The mica fit no probs.

Brent