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Old 8th September 2011, 12:01 AM   #17391
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Dear Ben and Malefoda,
I searched ebay to find the seller I bought the laserunit from. I've found it, but first I'd like to explain a little. I actually don't know for sure that the laserunit I bought was fake, but it didn't have the same quality the original unit had, in terms of sound (very exaggerated highs and unbalanced spectrum). Then I started to read about this, and I discovered there where some minor differences with the original. First of all the original replacement would have the wires and connector attached. Second the rails on the PCB look different, more rounded shape. I'm not sure, but I believe that the sled-motor has a small blue/green dot on it. Maybe that's all nonsense, fact is that it's possible to replace the laserunit with a new one that functions ok mechanically, but sounds horrible, and there all your improvements go! So my advice is at least to listen very good if your cd-player sounds different after replacing the laser-unit. If it does, and greasing the original unit doesn't solve the skipping, maybe the properties I described can help you with buying a good laser-unit that doesn't affect the sound. But I wish for you the new laser-unit is allright ofcourse and I hope I didn't disturb to much! Maybe there are some more people reading this with the same or different experiences with replacing laser-units?
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Old 8th September 2011, 12:40 PM   #17392
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Received my bits for the CFP DOS today. Should get most of it populated today and then swap over the bits I want to keep from old dos next week.

Fitting Takman resistors instead of 0.1% Welwyn ones this time and Vishay 1% KP 1830 4n7 caps instead of the std polys I used before

Brent
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Old 8th September 2011, 01:00 PM   #17393
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Originally Posted by Fidelity Audio View Post
Received my bits for the CFP DOS today. Should get most of it populated today and then swap over the bits I want to keep from old dos next week.

Fitting Takman resistors instead of 0.1% Welwyn ones this time and Vishay 1% KP 1830 4n7 caps instead of the std polys I used before

Brent
Yay! Hopefully mine will be at home later then too!!!
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Old 8th September 2011, 01:06 PM   #17394
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I received the pcb on Monday. It's all the components that have arrived today, which is nice.

Brent
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Old 8th September 2011, 01:14 PM   #17395
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Sweet!

It shouldn't be long Ian, both your boards went out the same day.

Ray
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Old 8th September 2011, 02:31 PM   #17396
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Stage 1 complete - Tested with +/- 15V and 10V @ output.

Click the image to open in full size.

Brent
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Old 8th September 2011, 06:03 PM   #17397
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Hi Brent

Are you using Carbon Takman ?
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Old 8th September 2011, 11:14 PM   #17398
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Yes I am - http://uk/components/takman_resistors.html

Brent

Last edited by Fidelity Audio; 8th September 2011 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 9th September 2011, 07:41 AM   #17399
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Thanks for posting those pics, Ian - that's a big help. I'll need to study the schematic to figure out which polarity goes where, but at least I won't put them in the wrong way round. I can see that the earth pin is soldered to the ground plane on the one - presumably that's the same for all of them that I can't see?

Board's looking great, Brent. Thanks for posting details of the parts you're using, as I have no clue what to get.

If anyone, like me, is building Martin's 'simple but good' 317 reg, I have an interesting data point for you. I've built 8 so far:

- 4 with 10uF + 100uF Elna Silmics and red + green LEDs
- 4 with 10uF + 10uF solid tantalum and 2x green LEDs (as per schematic)

The 4 with Silmics put out 5.2v and the 4 I built last night with solid tantalum all put out a solid 5.02v.

Interesting, huh? I didn't have to change the resistor value or swap in the red LED or anything, and they're bang on.
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Old 9th September 2011, 08:48 AM   #17400
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Any reason for choosing carbon and not metal film? I've used the metal film ones previously but I've no idea how they compare. Did you go for half watt?
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