|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#17391 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2011
|
Dear Ben and Malefoda,
I searched ebay to find the seller I bought the laserunit from. I've found it, but first I'd like to explain a little. I actually don't know for sure that the laserunit I bought was fake, but it didn't have the same quality the original unit had, in terms of sound (very exaggerated highs and unbalanced spectrum). Then I started to read about this, and I discovered there where some minor differences with the original. First of all the original replacement would have the wires and connector attached. Second the rails on the PCB look different, more rounded shape. I'm not sure, but I believe that the sled-motor has a small blue/green dot on it. Maybe that's all nonsense, fact is that it's possible to replace the laserunit with a new one that functions ok mechanically, but sounds horrible, and there all your improvements go! So my advice is at least to listen very good if your cd-player sounds different after replacing the laser-unit. If it does, and greasing the original unit doesn't solve the skipping, maybe the properties I described can help you with buying a good laser-unit that doesn't affect the sound. But I wish for you the new laser-unit is allright ofcourse and I hope I didn't disturb to much! Maybe there are some more people reading this with the same or different experiences with replacing laser-units? |
|
|
|
|
#17392 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
|
Received my bits for the CFP DOS today. Should get most of it populated today and then swap over the bits I want to keep from old dos next week.
Fitting Takman resistors instead of 0.1% Welwyn ones this time and Vishay 1% KP 1830 4n7 caps instead of the std polys I used before Brent |
|
|
|
|
#17393 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
|
Quote:
__________________
When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17394 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
|
I received the pcb on Monday. It's all the components that have arrived today, which is nice.
Brent |
|
|
|
|
#17395 |
|
One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
|
Sweet!
![]() It shouldn't be long Ian, both your boards went out the same day. Ray |
|
|
|
|
#17396 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17398 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
|
__________________
Fidelity Audio - Home of quality products & upgrades - What HiFi 5 Star Headphone amp » Hifi World 5 Star Pre amp » HiFi Choice 5 Star Group test winner HPA-100 Last edited by Fidelity Audio; 8th September 2011 at 10:25 PM. |
|
|
|
|
#17399 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Thanks for posting those pics, Ian - that's a big help. I'll need to study the schematic to figure out which polarity goes where, but at least I won't put them in the wrong way round. I can see that the earth pin is soldered to the ground plane on the one - presumably that's the same for all of them that I can't see?
Board's looking great, Brent. Thanks for posting details of the parts you're using, as I have no clue what to get. If anyone, like me, is building Martin's 'simple but good' 317 reg, I have an interesting data point for you. I've built 8 so far: - 4 with 10uF + 100uF Elna Silmics and red + green LEDs - 4 with 10uF + 10uF solid tantalum and 2x green LEDs (as per schematic) The 4 with Silmics put out 5.2v and the 4 I built last night with solid tantalum all put out a solid 5.02v. Interesting, huh? I didn't have to change the resistor value or swap in the red LED or anything, and they're bang on.
__________________
Modified Marantz CD63KI -> Modified PM66KI -> B&W 805S |
|
|
|
|
#17400 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
|
Quote:
__________________
When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |