Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1690 - diyAudio
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Old 21st June 2011, 10:02 PM   #16891
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Hi fi has been a passion of mine for the last 30yrs in 82 i purchased a 52se which i still have. My house is like a hi fi shop lol,Learning lots from a very informative friendly ppl on here long may it continue.
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Old 21st June 2011, 10:55 PM   #16892
Bartt is offline Bartt  Netherlands
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My player is getting mental now. This is what happens:

1. 4 out of 5 times it doesn't power on. Nothing moving, no display, just a soft popping noise when powering off (because of C803/804 (10000uf cap) I found out, but I had this popping noise before without any other problems)
2. When it does power on it sounds great, but sometimes the sound gets distorted very much (only noise). The display is looking weird as well (random characters). The remote sometimes doesn't work
3. the drawer goes in faster than normal (out is okay)
4. service mode gives no errors

This is what I did for now:
- tried to find bad joint (twice)
- resoldert and cleaned the cables
- disassembled transport and put it together again

Before all of this happened I did some mods around the RF amp pcb, dac, regs 5v supply, changing caps in the power supply, output filter, so it's hard to tell where it went wrong.

Please help!!
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:00 PM   #16893
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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You need to check all of your soldering extremely carefully in good light. You're looking for dry joints or solder splashes. Gently rock each changed cap, diode, regulator, whatever you changed and check for movement of the solder.

And you could also check some voltages. If nothing's coming on and there's no voltage in there (there are various wire links that enable easy voltage testing) then you have a problem with the transformer, power switch or power lead. If it's a KI model the transformer leads may have become detached from the PCB.
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:00 PM   #16894
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Hey Simon, I've heard that said about B&Ws, but I don't think they're the problem here. They sound perfectly balanced to my ears playing the same albums on vinyl, and I have the same LM4562HA op-amp in my phono stage as I do in my 63KI. The treble was silky smooth before I removed the DC caps and my CD player and turntable were very difficult to tell apart.

Now, I'm just a beginner and this is probably complete nonsense, but from my listening impressions it's as though the DC caps were performing a smoothing/low pass function, blurring over the nasties to give the player a warm, vinyl-like sound. I do remember noticing a big change when I swapped the original Silmics for equivalent Black Gates, so maybe they are used to help give the player its 'voice'? I tried comparing a test tone sweep last night on both my player and a stock one and mine definitely gets louder as it gets higher. It's not all bad - mine definitely sounds far punchier and more exciting than the stock one, but the unnaturally loud siblants on the vocals are the deal breaker right now. I can persevere with changing the analogue filter caps as suggested and see if things improve, but if that doesn't work I might end up admitting defeat and putting the FKs back in - at least as an experiment (Doesn't the CD63 KI DP have Black Gates there?)

The only other thing I can think of is maybe I botched the bypass operation somehow. I might try resoldering the wire first. It's 19awg Kimber TCSS.
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:13 PM   #16895
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Bart. Go back 1 page as you have had 2 replies to that question

Brent
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:14 PM   #16896
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Well, you have revealing speakers and with all those mods on your amp that should be pretty revealing too! I'm afraid you've just got to press on and keep modifying until the sound becomes balanced once more. This is a classic case with the CD63, you have to get things worse before they become better. With all the jitter and PSU noise in the thing it's no wonder they sound bad when you upgrade the op-amps and bypass the output caps and HDAMs. Those things combine, in the standard player, to provide a cosy hi-fi shop-friendly sound that is pleasant on all CDs, good or bad. They not only hold back the overall fidelity but also the player's ability to reveal bad recordings, whilst balancing an otherwise quite bad sounding machine. If you want to reveal what's upstream you'd better make what's upstream pretty good! That means good power supplies and clocking.

The DC blocking caps aren't there to tune the player, they're there to block DC from reaching your amp. That said, I'm sure they were chosen to sound a certain way. If they're needed anyway, you may as well utilise them to help achieve the saleable character, the Marantz character of that era perhaps....

Never mind the DP version, it's really not worth looking at. I could better it with 30mins of tweaking and a few pounds or so spent. It has a certain mystique to it because it was sold at an artificially high price given its nature (a one-off for a magazine reviewer, but made available to the public so as to enable a review to be possible). We've seen inside it on this thread at some point and it's just a couple of caps changed, I think the DAC analogue decoupling electrolytics (to Black Gate) and some more blingy copper. It was probably supposed to be harmless fun but sadly a couple of people actually bought it (sad because sonically speaking, it will be very mediocre).

Simon

Last edited by SimontY; 21st June 2011 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:16 PM   #16897
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Ben. You need to beef up your psu to the output. This brings the lower end out and reigns in the upper regions. Also the other psus in the player all help. I can't stress enough how important they are.

Brent
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:34 PM   #16898
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I appreciate the encouragement guys. Forward it is, then!

Simon, you said something about putting a huge cap on C813. How huge? Is 12,000uF too much? I have some Elnas of that value kicking around...
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:37 PM   #16899
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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A cap is only too big if it physically can't fit in the space or nearby. Usually 6,800-22,000uF is aimed for. This cap smooths a voltage rail which feeds about 15 circuits in the player, which is why it's so amazingly critical. Many of these are fed after the solitary 5V regulator, some are from the unregulated supply straight from that cap (ie. servo driver op-amps, which are super-important in this player).
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Old 21st June 2011, 11:59 PM   #16900
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Thanks man, I think I just have a 4700uF BG STD there. I'll try swapping in one of those Elnas for starters and then maybe look out for something bigger and nicer.
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