Gooch said:Hello Everyone
I just finished the Servo HF RF Motor Driver mod from Brent mod list. I used PRP 1% precision resistors,Caddock 1%, Black Gate, and silver mica caps.
I didn't do the RF amp PCB yet I wanted to here what changes there would be just to the main PCB, and all I can say is WOWincreased detail tighter bass I am going to give it some more time to burn in it's been about 4 hours now.
Regards
Dave
Nice results Dave,
I might try something similar in my CD67. I haven't touched that part yet (except for the supply that is...).
Ray.
Hi everyone,
I'm having great fun planning the mods for my CD67 OSE.
The amp that I currently use has no DC blocking. I'm therefore not keen on removing the DC blocking caps on the CD player as recommended many times in this forum.
That said, is there some alternative solution, can the caps be upgraded to reduce the effect on the sound quality?
Also, I'm not really sure what the outcome of just letting the DC through would be (I guess maybe expensive? )
Any help appreciated
Pete
I'm having great fun planning the mods for my CD67 OSE.
The amp that I currently use has no DC blocking. I'm therefore not keen on removing the DC blocking caps on the CD player as recommended many times in this forum.
That said, is there some alternative solution, can the caps be upgraded to reduce the effect on the sound quality?
Also, I'm not really sure what the outcome of just letting the DC through would be (I guess maybe expensive?
)Any help appreciated
Pete
. Few hundred pages to browse through. Hey I just installed a upgraded clock in my player and I would like to give it its own power supply. Im not really skilled enough yet to be designing and building my own so I searched the net and came up with a few kits. What do yoou guys think.
power supply kits
or
power supply kit2
The first one is a full kit with high quality parts, the second is just a PCB which u supply parts. The second option is most likely less expensive to build. But will they work for the clock?? Might even be interesting to use them for a seperate power supply for the dac, analogue section....etc
power supply kits
or
power supply kit2
The first one is a full kit with high quality parts, the second is just a PCB which u supply parts. The second option is most likely less expensive to build. But will they work for the clock?? Might even be interesting to use them for a seperate power supply for the dac, analogue section....etc
I was looking some more on Welbourne labs website and they seem to have some interesting kits. The one that interestes me the most is the tube output stage. I used an Ah! Super Tjoeb 4000 player for a while and I was truly amazed at how good the tube stage made it sound. if your not familiar with that player, its basically a Marantz cd4000 with a very high quality tube stage and upsampling board. The player is one of the best I have heard, unfortunetly I needed money for school last year and was forced to sell it.
If a good tube stage can make a lowly cd4000 sound so nice, i can only imagine what it could do with a modded cd63se!!! Im wondering how complicated it would be to add the tube stage, im guesing you could use it as a buffer in place of the HDAM? What do you guys think
thanks
Frank
If a good tube stage can make a lowly cd4000 sound so nice, i can only imagine what it could do with a modded cd63se!!! Im wondering how complicated it would be to add the tube stage, im guesing you could use it as a buffer in place of the HDAM? What do you guys think
thanks
Frank
just a pic
here how it is now, with a short wire very soft with many copper small ones inside (how to say " multi-brins " in english??). And just a small piece of rubber under so it's not dancing in air anymore.
I've also got my BDog adapters and soldered the AD8620 on. Maybe put some in my Philips DVP 5500S DVD/SACD player if some are left...
here how it is now, with a short wire very soft with many copper small ones inside (how to say " multi-brins " in english??). And just a small piece of rubber under so it's not dancing in air anymore.
I've also got my BDog adapters and soldered the AD8620 on. Maybe put some in my Philips DVP 5500S DVD/SACD player if some are left...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi imperfectcircleimperfectcircle said:
This is the power supply I built to power my clock card it's easy to build and I have had great results with it and it didn't cost a lot either
I mounted it on the back of my player with some stand off.
Check the link scroll down till you see the power supply
power supply
Chivvyp said:Hi everyone,
I'm having great fun planning the mods for my CD67 OSE.
The amp that I currently use has no DC blocking. I'm therefore not keen on removing the DC blocking caps on the CD player as recommended many times in this forum.
That said, is there some alternative solution, can the caps be upgraded to reduce the effect on the sound quality?
Also, I'm not really sure what the outcome of just letting the DC through would be (I guess maybe expensive?
Any help appreciated
Pete
hi pete
no preamp?, just into amp?
if so recommend cap either on cd out or amp in
allan
imperfectcircle said:
Guys,
5 volt powersupplies can be quite simple, just download the datasheet for LM317 or LT1085 and start with the given example. Experiment with a 12V battery and a light bulb, it's really easy.
For starters you can power your new PSU's from the +20V rail. Later on you can build your own power source for 5V from a 0-7V @500mA mains transformer (0-9V@1A will do too), four Schottky diodes and a 1.000uF/25V capacitor. Some have good experience with pre regulation what means a regulator comes between the first cap (1.000uF) and the PSU's. In that case you need a 0-12V@500mA tranny, a regulator connected for 9V and another 1.000uF/25V cap to connect your 5V PSU's to.
If you build the 'Raygulator' for example parts shouldn't be more than $9. You need three or four for the DAC, one for main clock and one for servo, so the on board 5V supply has only logic connected.
For 12V rails you can keep the on board transformer and replace the two regulators with Audicoms or equivalent.
A better supply (less noise and ripple, better regulation) is the Flea PSU. Board and parts will be circa $30 each. An alternative is the Audicom (circa $30 each) which is smaller but equally potent.
Regards, Jaap
imperfectcircle said:
Frank,
The SM5872 DAC has two differential output pairs, one for left channel and one for right. The output signal for L-channel is derived from the differential pair LO/LON (R-channel from RO/RON). It's HF filtered for digital artifacts and extracted by a differential amplifier. The resulting signal goes to your power amplifier.
This differential amplifier can be made with high-mu-triode or penthode tubes. They certainly should sound way better than opamps which are the cheapest solution for manufacturers - and why they are choosen 99.9% of the time! The difficulty lays in finding four equal operating tubes of a type with low internal resistance to match a power amplifier. Popular choice is the ECC88 (6DJ8) duo triode with low Ri.
It's also possible to use higher Ri tubes with 10:1 stepdown transformers, but good quality is quite expensive ($200 each).
Because I didn't own a pair of 10:1 interstages of suitable selfinductance, I experimented with a medium mu triode of low Ri. Although soundquality was very good, the resolution* could be bettered.
Two weeks ago I finished a new setup with high mu tubes which is playing for the last ten days with satisfying results. Maybe I'll produce a PCB and post it to the group.
Regards, Jaap
*With resolution I mean that part of the differential signal that is made audible.
Hi everyone, hope you're all well!
I finally got my CD player back, in a working state. I'd killed my pcb and chips badly enough that it needed a PCB transplant from an Ebay'd CD63 vanilla.
So now it is fixed, thanks to super-star Brent, and it has come home with a working servo clock divider, repositioned 12v regs, and blue LEDs.
Whilst visiting Brent we of course had a listening session, and I can confirm suspicions that he indeed owns a very fine CD player!
I had the opportunity to enjoy listening to both my player (all opa627, audiocom dvc1 clock for DAC+servo, 3 x DAC regs., no hdams, caps etc.) and afterwards to Brents (discrete output + every mod known to man and beast).
The difference between our CD63kis? Well, of course Brent's was better: vocals are superior for sure, the bass seems more accurate (and nicely bold) and the overall presentation is more relaxed and natural. It's easier to listen to. There was not a huge amount of extra detail, but I feel if there was it would be better noticed in my own system/room.
The apparent difference (long time apart from my baby) from before and after servo mod plus Brent tweakery... There's definately more detail, for example I heard noises on Dire Straits' debut album I've not heard before: strange steady high pitched tones was one such experience. Another thing is an improvement in treble, which is cleaner and less like white noise. It now just happens with no mess, and musically it's pleasing on hi-hats etc. The bass also seems to have become more agile and the PRAT (pace, rhythm, acceleration and timing) really seems to have got better too.
So I'm a very happy bunny.
For now I need to get readjusted to this sound, then the tweaking can continue.
I should say that in the interim I also tweaked my preamp slightly with a new volume pot, schottky diodes and hard feet (metal amplifier buttons turned on their side).
Thanks for listening!
Simon
I finally got my CD player back, in a working state. I'd killed my pcb and chips badly enough that it needed a PCB transplant from an Ebay'd CD63 vanilla.
So now it is fixed, thanks to super-star Brent, and it has come home with a working servo clock divider, repositioned 12v regs, and blue LEDs.
Whilst visiting Brent we of course had a listening session, and I can confirm suspicions that he indeed owns a very fine CD player!
I had the opportunity to enjoy listening to both my player (all opa627, audiocom dvc1 clock for DAC+servo, 3 x DAC regs., no hdams, caps etc.) and afterwards to Brents (discrete output + every mod known to man and beast).
The difference between our CD63kis? Well, of course Brent's was better: vocals are superior for sure, the bass seems more accurate (and nicely bold) and the overall presentation is more relaxed and natural. It's easier to listen to. There was not a huge amount of extra detail, but I feel if there was it would be better noticed in my own system/room.
The apparent difference (long time apart from my baby) from before and after servo mod plus Brent tweakery... There's definately more detail, for example I heard noises on Dire Straits' debut album I've not heard before: strange steady high pitched tones was one such experience. Another thing is an improvement in treble, which is cleaner and less like white noise. It now just happens with no mess, and musically it's pleasing on hi-hats etc. The bass also seems to have become more agile and the PRAT (pace, rhythm, acceleration and timing) really seems to have got better too.
So I'm a very happy bunny.
For now I need to get readjusted to this sound, then the tweaking can continue.
I should say that in the interim I also tweaked my preamp slightly with a new volume pot, schottky diodes and hard feet (metal amplifier buttons turned on their side
).Thanks for listening!
Simon
That power supply looks nice but does your clock need a +- voltage, dont most run on a single +5v?? I could be wrong here as Im a newbie to this stuff. That Hag Clock looks quite nice and its inexpensive to build!
I would definitly be interested in a PCB for a tube stage to replace the opamp and hdam. I remeber reading someplace I think maybe the Audioasylum, that some people were coming directly off pin 18 and 25 of the DAC direct to thier RCA jacks completely bypassing the entire analog stage in the cd63. Is this possible?? I thought the opamps stage was needed as it filters digital hf noise from the signal?? In some high bandwith amplifiers wouldnt this cause some problems??
thanks
Frank
Ok so ive done most of the basic mods according to the Bobwire, TNT audio, and Acoustics's write ups. Caps, schottkys, opamps, clock...etc. Whats the next step after that?? Im thinking some super regs to replace the 7812, 7912, and 7805 regs, Bursen audio is runing a special 4 super regs for $100AUD im in the US, it would be about $75 US which seems quitre reasonable compared to the Audiocoms.
Im also interested in trying a better opamp, I have installed sockets so they are easy to swap. I have bb2604 in there right now simply because I had them on hand. I would like to get some of the browndog addapters so I can try some of the better single opamps like the opa627, ad8610... But for now can anyone reccomend some dual opamps that would be an upgrade from the 2604's. I have on hand right now the following
opa 2132
opa 2134
AD827
lm6172
Any others I would want to check out?? Also where can I get the adapters??
Thanks
Frank
Im also interested in trying a better opamp, I have installed sockets so they are easy to swap. I have bb2604 in there right now simply because I had them on hand. I would like to get some of the browndog addapters so I can try some of the better single opamps like the opa627, ad8610... But for now can anyone reccomend some dual opamps that would be an upgrade from the 2604's. I have on hand right now the following
opa 2132
opa 2134
AD827
lm6172
Any others I would want to check out?? Also where can I get the adapters??
Thanks
Frank
SimontY said:
Hey Padlifter,
I'm glad you have your player back! Welcome back....
I've been listening to my new Flea now for the last couple of days, and I must say the difference with the previous clock is most noticeable! The highs are more extended, and more detail seems present. The sound is more "up-front" so to speak, more clear. I still have to get used to it a bit, and maybe i'm going to sort out the opamps again to achieve a new acoustic equillibrium
.I'm going to build a second one to put in my other player (the one with the discrete FET stage), after I've upgraded the stage with Holco resistors and a very expensive Multicap output capacitor
. Can't wait to hear what will happen 
.Still have to wait for parts though...
Ray.
Spoke with Martin and he's out of them
disco said:
Thanks Jaap, well this was well worth the wait, and well worth buying another sacrificial player for!
imperfectcircle said:
Hi Frank,
I've heard some of those, maybe we can save you some time..
OPA2132/4 sounds quite good, much better than original, but a bit dull and veiled.
LM6172 (in my preamp) sounds exciting with powerful bass, but a tad raw in the top end.
OPA2604 is a bit of a disaster for good audio in my opinion. It sounds overhyped and tiring, and whilst that may impress short term it's not a sound to live with and fall in love with.
OPA627 is one to fall in love with, a euphonic op-amp.
Discrete seems superior though, perhaps removing some bass emphasis (compared to 627).
6h5c said:
Hi Ray, thanks! It's good to be back
Simon
This player sounds so good now! It's really been improved by the 12v reg movement, better placement of my 3 black gates and the servo reclocking (and blue LEDs ).
I've just been listening to Crash Test Dummies' God Shuffled His Feet and I'm hearing all sorts of cool little details that were hidden away before. Also the bass is really funky and tuneful!
Another thing is I can hear more production trickery - the kinds of things that make a record more exciting - coming through laid bare. I can hear the effects of compression better and I can hear a shifting of the vocals from centre to one side and back, which is subtle and I've never heard it before. But now these things are obvious!
).I've just been listening to Crash Test Dummies' God Shuffled His Feet and I'm hearing all sorts of cool little details that were hidden away before. Also the bass is really funky and tuneful!
Another thing is I can hear more production trickery - the kinds of things that make a record more exciting - coming through laid bare. I can hear the effects of compression better and I can hear a shifting of the vocals from centre to one side and back, which is subtle and I've never heard it before. But now these things are obvious!
Attachments
I'm a good student:
get a pack of AD8620! I'm ready to put 3 of them for both output and headphones, and I'll do it when I'll also make the overall Ray's list of components and maybe flea and Raygulators, one big step I should be surprised after! (maybe let it burn at low volume at night... and enjoy a pure new sound after!)
So I advice AD8620.
And Simon, it seems the tuning of this player is a drug... until it is perfect! I think I'll do like you, work on it until almost all have been done
get a pack of AD8620! I'm ready to put 3 of them for both output and headphones, and I'll do it when I'll also make the overall Ray's list of components and maybe flea and Raygulators, one big step I should be surprised after! (maybe let it burn at low volume at night... and enjoy a pure new sound after!)
So I advice AD8620.
And Simon, it seems the tuning of this player is a drug... until it is perfect! I think I'll do like you, work on it until almost all have been done