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#1621 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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Hi,
http://www.grimmaudio.com/whitepaper...0converter.pdf This seems to be a useful RF fix for a pdm dac (the CS4303). Would it work with a pwm dac like the SM5872 ? |
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#1622 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: DK
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I was searching the threat for "8620" but I found no hits ?
Have any of you tried the AD8620 (and not written 'bout it). If so, how will you describe it? Just wondering, before I order a pair of premounted browndogs. /avr300 |
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#1623 | |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The heater voltage is o.k. so that's one thing. But it should be at a DC offset of about -13V. That pin 3 voltage should be -18V with D852 shorted. Vftd is switched to the heater voltage by no less than seven transistors (Q852...854, QN01, 03, 04) and a 4V7 zener. This creates a power-on delay to make sure the heaters are up before Vftd and the display doesn't "fade-in" in an ugly manner. Maybe one of them has failed or has a dry joint? If you short the collector and emitter of Q852 there should be Vftd present on the heaters. Do you have Vftd present on pin 64 of the microcontroller? Regards, Ray. |
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#1624 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Ray,
Thanks for your reply. It's late now, and I'll look again tomorrow. Still got her apart on the lounge table. Cheers
__________________
Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#1625 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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O.k., good luck. I'm going to hit the sack here too
![]() Ray. |
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#1626 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Simon just in case you were not aware, the pins are different on a negative regulator to on a positive one.
i.e 7805 = pin 1 - i/p pin 2 - gnd pin 3 - o/p 7905 = pin 1 - gnd pin 2 - i/p pin 3 - o/p Brent |
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#1627 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello, this is my firts post here. I have been reading this thread for a while now and yesterday evening I modded my cd67se.
I removed the muting transistor and the dc blocking caps in the output stage. And damped the whole chasis. When I turned the player on I heard things in my music collection I never heard before, really nice bass. I will continu to mod my player with new opamps bypass hdam buffer and then I will see what's next. Any way, thanks for sharing information on this. |
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#1628 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Quote:
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#1629 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Quote:
Not sure if its too relevant, but I did upgrade a friends CD63 last year and as an experiment, I put in AD OP249 (SR 22v/uS GBP 4.7Mhz SetT 0.9uS). These were deliberately chosen as they were as close to spec as my BB2107 opamps as I could find, and they we're a lot cheaper (about £3 versus £15). If I recall, I found the AD chips to be a bit more 'in your face' than my Burr Browns, which were far more laid back. They we're just as interesting, but had a very different sound. It did reinforce for me that the AD chips tend to be more agressive BB equivalents. Both are maybe an acquired taste. Still haven't had a chance to fix my CD63. Its been a week of work on the house and stuff. Ho hum. Really frustrated, because I want to get it fixed and then fit the bipolar output. So want to hear what it sounds like. Cheers, Phil |
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#1630 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Transformer seems the most ovbious thing but all the leads seem to be soldered to something!! For everyone's benefit is there some simple way of knowing which colour wire is which winding? Or is the only way to count them from one end to the other?
__________________
Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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