rowemeister said:
LOL Why not!!
Always looking for new avenues at work and modding is something I enjoy. On the back of it someone is sending me a Roksan Caspian cd to repair and mod
Brent
You're absolutely right. The contents is enlightning for what results may be expected from different mods. Clearly put, highly recommended for new modders!
Jaap
here is how it is now: just a big rubber around the xtal and grounded to a chassis screw.
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music...
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Malefoda said:here is how it is now: just a big rubber around the xtal and grounded to a chassis screw.
In fact my listening conditions are varying a lot, according to my son, wife and open/closed doors... I've removed egg boxes 'coz we are about to move in our own house soon, wich has an empty and big room on the 2nd floor with a big space designed for music...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ah, I see. Son eh? You're older than I pictured. Please don't take offence.
Right, I think U260 is ground, that'd be better to solder the can to - much neater and lower impedance/shorter wire.
Si
KI63 - CD skipping during playback
Well, I have been working on resolving
the cd skipping issue with the CDM12. After nearly fully stripping out the CD tray and laser mechanism I think I have found what may be causing a lot of un-necessary skipping. A cheap plastic gear! The laser tracking mechanism works via a worm or roller gear attached to the motor and straight cut gear that drives the laser along a metal slide/guide. From what I can see, the teeth of the cream-coloured two stage straight cut gear that links the motor to the laser slide is very weak and is prone to feathering it seems. On closer inspection and testing it seems that it jams and sticks. When I removed the laser and connected just the motor worm gear and the intermediate straight cut gear I found high-spots or places where the movement was not smooth at all and where it stuck extra force was required to work the gears. On my gear I found three high spots. If I could replace the cream coloured gear I think I may be able to solve my skipping issue. After cleaning the gear and getting the motion as smooth as I could, the skipping has disappeared although I dont know for how long as the gears will begin to feather and hence jam up.
Well if it is indeed this cheap gear I would need to find 5 or 6 to keep as spares or find a better made one.
Why I came to this conclusion was where disks in good condition would skip at certain places (mostly at the same place everytime) during playback. And when I found the high - spots it sort of explained it. If anyone has seen this issue on their CD63 cdm it would be interesting to find out what they did to remedy.
Cheers
Justin
Well, I have been working on resolving
the cd skipping issue with the CDM12. After nearly fully stripping out the CD tray and laser mechanism I think I have found what may be causing a lot of un-necessary skipping. A cheap plastic gear! The laser tracking mechanism works via a worm or roller gear attached to the motor and straight cut gear that drives the laser along a metal slide/guide. From what I can see, the teeth of the cream-coloured two stage straight cut gear that links the motor to the laser slide is very weak and is prone to feathering it seems. On closer inspection and testing it seems that it jams and sticks. When I removed the laser and connected just the motor worm gear and the intermediate straight cut gear I found high-spots or places where the movement was not smooth at all and where it stuck extra force was required to work the gears. On my gear I found three high spots. If I could replace the cream coloured gear I think I may be able to solve my skipping issue. After cleaning the gear and getting the motion as smooth as I could, the skipping has disappeared although I dont know for how long as the gears will begin to feather and hence jam up. Well if it is indeed this cheap gear I would need to find 5 or 6 to keep as spares or find a better made one.
Why I came to this conclusion was where disks in good condition would skip at certain places (mostly at the same place everytime) during playback. And when I found the high - spots it sort of explained it. If anyone has seen this issue on their CD63 cdm it would be interesting to find out what they did to remedy.
Cheers
Justin
Malefoda
Do as Simon says and use the U260 connection. Also use lighter and thinner wire as thick ridgid wire may transfer vibrations to the xtal can.
Also it appears the crystal is on long legs. If so solder the crystal in as tight as possible. I find this is better. If its still not better remove the large rubber ring. If thats no good try a new crystal.
Brent
Do as Simon says and use the U260 connection. Also use lighter and thinner wire as thick ridgid wire may transfer vibrations to the xtal can.
Also it appears the crystal is on long legs. If so solder the crystal in as tight as possible. I find this is better. If its still not better remove the large rubber ring. If thats no good try a new crystal.
Brent
Crystal Oscillator.
http://www.tentlabs.com/ProductEntities/XO/XO.html
as DIY on one of these:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/35clockreg.html
(ask Martin to order more boards )
and you end up with this.
http://www.tentlabs.com/ProductEntities/XO/XO.html
as DIY on one of these:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/35clockreg.html
(ask Martin to order more boards
)and you end up with this.
Attachments
rowemeister said:
disco said:
Morning people,
Exactly, although it will sound great there's a lot of basic stuff missing, so it can't come close to one like Brents. Resistor changes and small cap changes (all those silver mica or polystyrene), still using op-amps, separate regs for all audio circuits, new sockets, muting circuit, coupling caps, data lines/traces. All that is way too much work, hehe