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#14561 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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The player was just fine out of the box. Then he started messing around with it...
The signs of a dead mech are: no sound. No, just kidding, i'm being mean now... Ray |
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#14562 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Shepp,
very kind but I think the evil forces try to shoot me down... I also had a free player, a CD951, wich was great... but has proven dead mech... only in my home :'( Yesterday evening, fully warmed, some TOC not even read, some fine but then no way to read a track (some sled seeking but fault) or some sudden stop in playback. Track access erratic from lighting fast (as fast as regulated drivers do), to sled lost and can't find.... Error code in diag was 10, As for news, when cold the new 10.5V TX (5V regs one) is dead silent, buzzes only when warm to hot. The player in today's mood: In diagnotsic mode, P1 "tick tick tick" a clean sequence, P2 and then turntable spins nicely, P3 the turn table spins by sequences, maybe pules of 1 sec, the sled goes. Is that turntable spinning by pulses normal? When leave the sled fully out, power off the player, then on, it travels fine but 2 very slight noises like mechanical hold, very slight... I guess it should be smooth like peach's skin... Just played one disc, only that dagnostic tests and some "catch the track" issuses. More a new TX (powering Decoder and DAC) or a mech issue to you guys? I swear this is the end of my xp if I end with 2 dead players! Matthieu, fried. Edit: Hi Ray, ribbon replaced, voltages OK but a slight voltage drop (fast, hard to check with my DMM) on P3 with the start of the truntable, by pulses. Look at the VAM12 reliability table, scaring! 1% won't go over 500H, 10% over 5000...
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Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music! Last edited by Malefoda; 10th June 2010 at 09:28 AM. |
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#14563 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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As everybody should know by now, I'm a fake DIY'er! I let others do the hard work and sit back and enjoy it (or not, as is the case with breaking-in new parts) The bad part is that it costs a lot; The good part is not having to worry about it, since it always works! I feel for you. There's a good reason not to ever open the box! but then we would just be consumers and not cutting-edge loveable freaks (I use the royal "we" with caution and freaks is a term of endearment)
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#14564 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
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Quote:
Of course that's just normal failure, sticking 240v through the laser will probably cause a more catastrophic failure. Regards Pete |
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#14565 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Pete,
in fact it's not sudden, as I've checked the ribbon, cleaned the sled rail slightly, and yesterday it played flawlessly, I've tried to stress it with many calls of tracks like 1 to 10 then 3 to 9 or such... sometimes it's a bit slower to stop and play and I can here a "wheewhee". But played nicely... strange... anyway, a CDM12 can't be that new!
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Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music! |
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#14566 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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It could be something like a PCB track that's making poor contact. I had a player with a defective 1nF cap once (the one in the HF signal-line). If it was playing, it worked fine, but sometimes it couldn't find the track when skipping. The decoder is quite sensitive to power supplies by the way, I tried separating some PSU pins once, and it didn't like it at all. If you have separate regulators there, that could be it.
Ray |
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#14567 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oxford
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error 10 you say Mathieu??????
you have been here before!!!!!
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When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk Restek Fantasy, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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#14568 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I can't find that cap, can you point it Ray? ... and bought this new player to fit parts in! ![]() All that means that player is not finished! Never ending "fun"! OMG...
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Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music! |
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#14569 |
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diyAudio Member
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Just opened the player for a full mech cleaning: all TX's irons are very hot, hotter it will burn me and it's near to be very hard to keep the finger on.
None of my regs get that hot! Defo need to try DC blocking, and may explain the tube amp physical buzzing and humm in speakers. f!
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Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music! |
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#14570 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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That C was C505.
Are you shure you don't have an other problem, because those TX getting that hot is not normal. Maybe something's drawing too much current? Ray |
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