Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1394

RCruz · 19th January 2010, 06:56 PM

What kind of filters do you use for the CDP ?

SimontY · 19th January 2010, 07:00 PM

I just have a DIY passive capacitor filter plugged in next to it. Something like 15uF across Live and Neutral and 11uF across Neutral and Earth and a small cap across Live and Earth. It's great sonically... but it does cause a little buzz pickup on one of my sources (not a CD player) since adding the big cap across Neutral and Earth - annoying as it improved the sound!!

RCruz · 19th January 2010, 08:13 PM

What are the principles of the technique ?

I never imagined to connect Live and neutral with a large cap like 15uF.

What type of cap are you using ?

SimontY · 19th January 2010, 08:25 PM

Principles? It just filters noise.

Across live-neutral film caps rated at 250V AC. There are caps rated for safe mains use and they're classed as X2 for across live and neutral or Y1 or Y2 for across live-earth. You're not meant to connect much across live-earth as it can cause problems on your ring main. Lighting capacitors or motor run capacitors are also safe for mains use. Mine are mainly 2.0uF and are in plastic cans designed for mains use (seven of them). I also have a 500VAC 220nF film cap (very high quality) across live-neutral, plus a few VDRs to quench spikes.

Across neutral-earth a smaller voltage rating is ok and I have a 10uF MKP 400VDC and a couple of others.

UV101 · 19th January 2010, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SimontY

Principles? It just filters noise.

Across live-neutral film caps rated at 250V AC. There are caps rated for safe mains use and they're classed as X2 for across live and neutral or Y1 or Y2 for across live-earth. You're not meant to connect much across live-earth as it can cause problems on your ring main. Lighting capacitors or motor run capacitors are also safe for mains use. Mine are mainly 2.0uF and are in plastic cans designed for mains use (seven of them). I also have a 500VAC 220nF film cap (very high quality) across live-neutral, plus a few VDRs to quench spikes.

Across neutral-earth a smaller voltage rating is ok and I have a 10uF MKP 400VDC and a couple of others.

You need to be very carefull with the caps to earth! If you have an ELCB (Earth leakage Circuit Breaker) you will get false trips if the capacitance is too high. I read somewhere what the recommended maximum value is and its very very low! I'll try to find it.

Also there are a few other considerations to do with power factor correction that you need to consider before adding very high capacitance accoss the mains!!! Too much capacitance may run you in to trouble with you electricity supplier!!!!

SimontY · 19th January 2010, 08:42 PM

Brent'll get into trouble before I do then LOL. Certain Russ Andrews products put at least 30uF across live and neutral so I feel pretty safe with my 14uF. His gear will have to pass rigorous tests to be legal to sell.

Live to earth can only be tiny, I have also read this, it's why Y-rated caps only go up to about 47nF or something. I have only used one such cap here.

Simon

UV101 · 09:16 PM

LOL! me too! TBH i don't think it makes much difference at th levels we are talking about but you are right about the "Y" class for L-E and N-E. You should never put any cap other than type Y accros to earth

See here Filter capacitor: Definition from Answers.com

I think I used type Y 0.047 to earth (although i believe the maximum recommended value is 0.022uF) and correctly spec'd self healing (lots of) for my filter

martin clark · 19th January 2010, 09:12 PM

4n7 across Neutral - Earth and NO more.

There's a really good reason for this: if there is an earth fault anywhere upstream, a large cap can raise the case - of everything else connected to the faulty earth - to a high voltage. 4n7 limits the current, and therefore teh shock potential, to about 0.5mA - which is still a very hefty sting, but below the level which stars to become really dangerous (1mA)

Equally, Neutral is a Phase conductor. Not less than Class X1(to L) or Class Y caps (to earth) may or should be used. This is non-negotiable IMO.

Really big caps across L-N domestically are just a plain wasteful idea. 30uF means 2.5A of reactive current - you don't get billed for it, but it creates waste in the generation network from heat etc just like a 2.5A load would (thats 600VA...). It also does not necessarily help (acoustica.org.uk: shocking! - scroll down a bit past 'Don't try this at home'...)

UV101 · 19th January 2010, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin clark

you don't get billed for it

Is that due to the change in current phase? Do newer digital meters still rely on the 90° phase difference to measure the used electiricty? If not, you would still be charged for the useage????

martin clark · 19th January 2010, 09:44 PM

I beleive domestic bills are only for 'real' power, they don't bill VAR.

19th January 2010, 07:00 PM	#13932
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	I just have a DIY passive capacitor filter plugged in next to it. Something like 15uF across Live and Neutral and 11uF across Neutral and Earth and a small cap across Live and Earth. It's great sonically... but it does cause a little buzz pickup on one of my sources (not a CD player) since adding the big cap across Neutral and Earth - annoying as it improved the sound!! __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

19th January 2010, 08:25 PM	#13934
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	Principles? It just filters noise. Across live-neutral film caps rated at 250V AC. There are caps rated for safe mains use and they're classed as X2 for across live and neutral or Y1 or Y2 for across live-earth. You're not meant to connect much across live-earth as it can cause problems on your ring main. Lighting capacitors or motor run capacitors are also safe for mains use. Mine are mainly 2.0uF and are in plastic cans designed for mains use (seven of them). I also have a 500VAC 220nF film cap (very high quality) across live-neutral, plus a few VDRs to quench spikes. Across neutral-earth a smaller voltage rating is ok and I have a 10uF MKP 400VDC and a couple of others. __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

19th January 2010, 08:42 PM	#13936
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	Brent'll get into trouble before I do then LOL. Certain Russ Andrews products put at least 30uF across live and neutral so I feel pretty safe with my 14uF. His gear will have to pass rigorous tests to be legal to sell. Live to earth can only be tiny, I have also read this, it's why Y-rated caps only go up to about 47nF or something. I have only used one such cap here. Simon __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

19th January 2010, 09:10 PM	#13937
UV101 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Oxford	LOL! me too! TBH i don't think it makes much difference at th levels we are talking about but you are right about the "Y" class for L-E and N-E. You should never put any cap other than type Y accros to earth See here Filter capacitor: Definition from Answers.com I think I used type Y 0.047 to earth (although i believe the maximum recommended value is 0.022uF) and correctly spec'd self healing (lots of) for my filter __________________ When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk Restek Fantasy, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard" Last edited by UV101; 19th January 2010 at 09:16 PM.

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19th January 2010, 06:56 PM	#13931
RCruz diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cascais Blog Entries: 1	What kind of filters do you use for the CDP ?

19th January 2010, 08:13 PM	#13933
RCruz diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cascais Blog Entries: 1	What are the principles of the technique ? I never imagined to connect Live and neutral with a large cap like 15uF. What type of cap are you using ?

19th January 2010, 09:12 PM	#13938
martin clark diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Bath, UK	4n7 across Neutral - Earth and NO more. There's a really good reason for this: if there is an earth fault anywhere upstream, a large cap can raise the case - of everything else connected to the faulty earth - to a high voltage. 4n7 limits the current, and therefore teh shock potential, to about 0.5mA - which is still a very hefty sting, but below the level which stars to become really dangerous (1mA) Equally, Neutral is a Phase conductor. Not less than Class X1(to L) or Class Y caps (to earth) may or should be used. This is non-negotiable IMO. Really big caps across L-N domestically are just a plain wasteful idea. 30uF means 2.5A of reactive current - you don't get billed for it, but it creates waste in the generation network from heat etc just like a 2.5A load would (thats 600VA...). It also does not necessarily help (acoustica.org.uk: shocking! - scroll down a bit past 'Don't try this at home'...)

19th January 2010, 09:44 PM	#13940
martin clark diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Bath, UK	I beleive domestic bills are only for 'real' power, they don't bill VAR.

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