6h5c said:You're welcome, Jaap!
I like the result of coax very much also. Nice connector! What type is that? SMA?
As for the ground: try to connect both sides and just listen for any differences.
Regards,
Ray.
Hi Ray,
It was on a Motorola repeater. SMA/SMB, don't know exactly. You know where I got it
I was afraight to create a ground loop as ground goes via the J103 connector as well. Will try though.
Are you familiar with these yellow caps? According to Baco they are Tantalum. Any good?
Regards, Jaap
Attachments
disco said:Hi Ray,
It was on a Motorola repeater. SMA/SMB, don't know exactly. You know where I got it
I was afraight to create a ground loop as ground goes via the J103 connector as well. Will try though.
Are you familiar with these yellow caps? According to Baco they are Tantalum. Any good?
Regards, Jaap
Hi Jaap,
Yeah, I've seen those caps in IJmuiden. They must be quite old, is there a date code on them?
If you want my opinion: stay away from them
!Ray.
gy21 said:Tonight I disabled the muting circuit by removing QN05-08, QN25/25/91/92 and RN27/28.
But the volume control on the remote still works and I can still adjust the volume for the player
Maybe I missed a component or removed a wrong one?
The muting function is active when your Marantz is not playing music.
The adjustable volume is a function of the DAC and stays in
So, you've done right.
Regards, Jaap
thanks
6h5c said:...
As for the ground: try to connect both sides and just listen for any differences
Regards,
Ray.
Took the test by connecting the shield to U137 (RF LPF ground) via a crocodile cable. It gave a subtle improvement in the mid/highs.
Will try again when starground has been implemented.
Regards, Jaap
re: cheap and faulty CD53
I'd agree it's the laser, but try the service mode to be sure:
Basically, Error 2 means the lasers dead. Probably still wortha punt at 20Euros though - a new laser is cheeeeap, and since the rest of the player is basically an even-more f*&&^%$-up 63 you'd geta heap of spares
I'd agree it's the laser, but try the service mode to be sure:
Basically, Error 2 means the lasers dead. Probably still wortha punt at 20Euros though - a new laser is cheeeeap, and since the rest of the player is basically an even-more f*&&^%$-up 63 you'd geta heap of spares
Re: Re: Coax mod on cd67se
thanks ray, ok straight onto pin 9 q101 is the best.
Here is a picture of my modded cd67se
I'm reaching the end of my mods. See list below on what has changed. So as last mod i'm looking into the coax thing. I;m not willing to spent a lot of money in my player anymore, so if anyone misses some cheap mods that are missing please let me know
Thanks to all the people who helped me out so far!
My mod list:
* replaced opamps for ad8620
* removed output dc blocking caps
* removed muting transistors
* Disabled headphone circuit
* Disabled HDAM
* supplied 8 x 100 nF decoupling caps around opamps and powersupply
* replaced clock with tentlabs clock
* Replaced mains inlet with iec inlet with emi filtering grounded at rca
* put 4n7 cap accros mains at jh03
* damped the cabinet and cdm12.1 with bitum material (7kg now)
* cd04/cd07 replaced by 220uF Silmic caps + 22nF Film
* C803/804 replaced by 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* C805/806 replaced by 2200uF/16V Panasonic FC + 22nF Film
* C813/815 replaced by 4700uF/25V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* CD15/16 replaced by 470uF/35V Elna Silmic + 22nF Film
* R659/660 replaced by 22R carbon resistor (matched pair)
* R657/658 replaced by wire jumper (lower OUtput impedance)
* R613-616 replaced by 1,5mH 22R Inductor
* C126 replaced by 220uF Silmic Cap + 22nF Film
* 3 x 7805 reg for DAC
* c605/606 replaced by 470pF Silver Mica 5% 2
* CD21-24 replaced by 120pF Silver Mica 5% 4
* C156 replaced by 220uF Silmic cap
* Disabled muting cicuit QN05-08, QN25/25/91/92 and RN27/28
* Digital output terminated by 75 ohm rca
6h5c said:
Well, there's U101, but that's a bit far off.
Straight to the pin seems to be the best option, and cut the trace.
Ray.
thanks ray, ok straight onto pin 9 q101 is the best.
Here is a picture of my modded cd67se
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm reaching the end of my mods. See list below on what has changed. So as last mod i'm looking into the coax thing. I;m not willing to spent a lot of money in my player anymore, so if anyone misses some cheap mods that are missing please let me know
Thanks to all the people who helped me out so far!
My mod list:
* replaced opamps for ad8620
* removed output dc blocking caps
* removed muting transistors
* Disabled headphone circuit
* Disabled HDAM
* supplied 8 x 100 nF decoupling caps around opamps and powersupply
* replaced clock with tentlabs clock
* Replaced mains inlet with iec inlet with emi filtering grounded at rca
* put 4n7 cap accros mains at jh03
* damped the cabinet and cdm12.1 with bitum material (7kg now)
* cd04/cd07 replaced by 220uF Silmic caps + 22nF Film
* C803/804 replaced by 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* C805/806 replaced by 2200uF/16V Panasonic FC + 22nF Film
* C813/815 replaced by 4700uF/25V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* CD15/16 replaced by 470uF/35V Elna Silmic + 22nF Film
* R659/660 replaced by 22R carbon resistor (matched pair)
* R657/658 replaced by wire jumper (lower OUtput impedance)
* R613-616 replaced by 1,5mH 22R Inductor
* C126 replaced by 220uF Silmic Cap + 22nF Film
* 3 x 7805 reg for DAC
* c605/606 replaced by 470pF Silver Mica 5% 2
* CD21-24 replaced by 120pF Silver Mica 5% 4
* C156 replaced by 220uF Silmic cap
* Disabled muting cicuit QN05-08, QN25/25/91/92 and RN27/28
* Digital output terminated by 75 ohm rca
Finished the starground in one player but I was disappointed by the results. Both bass and detail are lacking compared to yesterday.
Now do I not always follow the book, to put it mildly, so I have a few options to return to the original state. Anyone an educated guess what causes this degradation?
A) I used .25MM solid silver for most connections to SG, for 5V I used 1MM solid silver;
B) I took out some of the upper to lower ground connections;
C) I took out two ground runs (from 5V ground to TCA372) because they were in a loop. Connected to SG instead.
Regards, Jaap
Now do I not always follow the book, to put it mildly
, so I have a few options to return to the original state. Anyone an educated guess what causes this degradation?A) I used .25MM solid silver for most connections to SG, for 5V I used 1MM solid silver;
B) I took out some of the upper to lower ground connections;
C) I took out two ground runs (from 5V ground to TCA372) because they were in a loop. Connected to SG instead.
Regards, Jaap
Attachments
Re: Re: Re: Coax mod on cd67se
Looks good!
How does she sound?
Regards, Jaap
gy21 said:thanks ray, ok straight onto pin 9 q101 is the best.
Here is a picture of my modded cd67se
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm reaching the end of my mods. See list below on what has changed. So as last mod i'm looking into the coax thing. I;m not willing to spent a lot of money in my player anymore, so if anyone misses some cheap mods that are missing please let me know
Thanks to all the people who helped me out so far!
Looks good!
How does she sound?
Regards, Jaap
Re: Re: Re: Re: Coax mod on cd67se
She sounds great, i'm very happy with it now. I bought her to replace my unmodded philips 963sa for copy control cd's. Stcok the philips sounded a tiny bit better. But now the cd67se beats the 963sa easily. If she she's competely done i will compare her to my dad's (1500 euro) musical fidelity a3.2 cd player.
so far the cd67se cost me 65 euro to buy it and 65 euro to mod it
disco said:
She sounds great, i'm very happy with it now. I bought her to replace my unmodded philips 963sa for copy control cd's. Stcok the philips sounded a tiny bit better. But now the cd67se beats the 963sa easily. If she she's competely done i will compare her to my dad's (1500 euro) musical fidelity a3.2 cd player.
so far the cd67se cost me 65 euro to buy it and 65 euro to mod it