Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1366 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 5th December 2009, 11:17 AM   #13651
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
Default Servo regulators: how-to

Sorry if this mod's been posted before with pics, but I can't remember with the thread being so long!

To feed the servo chip cleaner power, cut R122 (digital feed) and R123 (analogue feed) and plumb in a 7805 for each (or share one, it will still give good gains).

Pin 3 of the 7805 is output so solder it to the resistor leg you left in place (you don't even need the board out for this work), pin 2 is ground - solder this to the PCB top (scratch the lacquer off with a fibreglass pencil) and bend the input pin (pin 1) back and feed it with a wire tapped from C813 ("+10V"). U236 or U237 is good for soldering your power wire to, but may need a clean-up with the fibre pen to make the solder flow easily.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PICT2506-1024.jpg (196.6 KB, 156 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 11:34 AM   #13652
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
Default Focus/radial driver op-amp

Here's Q106, which the service manual tells me does "radial" and "focus". That sounds important to me

This player didn't like -8V here (reg inserted in-line with U149) so I restored it, as you can see in the picture. I left the 7808 in place - perhaps it's useful to see how it's done. The negative regulator has a different pin-out so don't just wire that up the same - make a drawing of it and refer to it as you solder it up, and check it after you solder it. Otherwise it'll probably go bang on power-up

It's 100% happy with just 3 of the 6 voltage rails on the drivers regulated. I will do wire jumpers from the other 7808/7908 and regulate QM01 too.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PICT2507-1024.jpg (175.7 KB, 145 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 11:50 AM   #13653
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
Here's where you can easily feed Q105 (sled/laser diode driver). My pics don't show it clearly but it's the same as with Q106, except you're cutting out resistors rather than a wire link.

ps - that blue wire feeds the analogue regs on the servo, decoder and DAC. The others currently run off the big 10V rail.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PICT2508-1024.jpg (162.5 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg PICT2512-1024.jpg (256.8 KB, 138 views)

Last edited by SimontY; 5th December 2009 at 11:55 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 11:57 AM   #13654
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
These pics show the easiest way to add another transformer and power supply (or supplies) to the player. If you position it just right a fairly large toroid can be bolted to the back without affecting the lid fitting properly or causing other clearance issues.

I hope this helps some of you.

Simon
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PICT2515-1024.jpg (139.5 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg PICT2513-1024.jpg (160.6 KB, 58 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 01:36 PM   #13655
Glenn2 is offline Glenn2  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Glenn2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: London, UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by grofus View Post
Do you need to run a wire to ground from the ground pins also?
Yes, to U274 is the best place.

When I said insert regulators there, by regulator I mean regulator circuit, not just the three-legged item itself.
You at least need to add output decoupling capacitors, 100uF-470uF/16V is my recommendation, in addition to ground connections.
I always use a little bit of veroboard containing LM317/337, voltage setting resistors, decoupling caps.

Last edited by Glenn2; 5th December 2009 at 01:46 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 02:00 PM   #13656
diyAudio Member
 
Malefoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Send a message via MSN to Malefoda
Simon,
very nice that how-to series, nice pics!
Grofus, as Glenn said it's handy to work on protoboard.
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Matthieu
__________________
QED T260, Thorens TD-318, Marantz CD-43, TK2050, JBL 4313B & MJK's OB: music!
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 02:47 PM   #13657
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
Cheers.

For a beginner I think it's a bit much to be using separate boards and extra caps. It's much easier just to wire the regs in directly. The output caps are already on the board for you, but I usually add the odd extra input cap to make sure the regulator is happy.

Simon
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 05:12 PM   #13658
Glenn2 is offline Glenn2  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Glenn2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: London, UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimontY View Post
The output caps are already on the board for you....
Not if you leave the resistors in the circuit, which is a good idea as it isolates the servos drivers from each other. These form RC filters with the caps at the drivers.

But basically, if you use the insertion points I suggested, you definitely need the output caps.

I think the big benefit of all of this is actually keeping the servo noise away from the rest of the player, i.e. less of it on the raw 10V supply for the rest of the player.

But if you are using the resistor points to insert individual regulators - so the existing caps are on the reg's output - then no you don't need any more caps.

Last edited by Glenn2; 5th December 2009 at 05:14 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 09:11 PM   #13659
grofus is offline grofus  England
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Stevenage
Simon, thanks for the detailed info on fitting the regs. Glenn and Malefoda, thanks also.
I think I need to gen up on basic electronics, so I can "understand", rather than just copy. Anyone recommend a book ? Never realised how addictive this is! Cheers Steve

Last edited by grofus; 5th December 2009 at 09:25 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2009, 09:36 PM   #13660
diyAudio Member
 
Malefoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Send a message via MSN to Malefoda
Maybe have a look at:
Ray's Audio Page
then:
Using 3-pin regulators off-piste: part 1
and Simple Voltage Regulators Part 1: Noise - [English]
__________________
QED T260, Thorens TD-318, Marantz CD-43, TK2050, JBL 4313B & MJK's OB: music!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:59 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2