Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1362 - diyAudio
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Old 2nd December 2009, 08:18 PM   #13611
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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I'm modding a CD63 at the moment. I've done loads of cap upgrades, psu resistor shorting and the cap bypass on output. The op-amps are currently stock, as is the clocking. So far all I'd done to really improve matters was to install 6 extra regulators in some of the usual spots - 2 x DAC, 2 x decoder, 1 x servo, 1 x HF amp. The sound was quite good, if a bit shrill on female vocals... until tonight.

I just regulated voltages to two the three servo amplifiers using 7808 / 7908. The results are amazing! The detail, openness, space, smoothness and bass control have really improved a lot! The player sounds very funky.

It should be great when fully re-clocked.

Will post some pics at some point to show where I did this, although I know others have posted about this before. I recall Glenn, Lee and Brent all enjoying this mod. You guys were sure right.

Simon
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Old 2nd December 2009, 10:01 PM   #13612
Glenn2 is offline Glenn2  United Kingdom
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Simon - it's one of the absolute stand-out mods for me. Probably the best of all.

The bass is where the biggest gains were for me, it became deep and solid, and the mid-bass bloat disappeared. The bass is just wrong without this mod in my opinion. But yes your words convey it accurately as the improvements are great across the board.

It was probably the only mod I did where I thought "holy sh!t" and proceeded to spend a whole evening digging through my CDs to see what they all sounded like on my 'new' player.

And remember Martin Clark's clock mod. With a well-filtered 5V, the ground-bounce fixed, and the cap across the clock pins you are (IMHO of course) 90% of the way there regarding the clock. That was the other huge improvement I remember. Going from stock clock to that was huge, and then going from that to Tent X02 + XO supply was noticeable but not massive.

If I had to do only two mods it'd be regulate the servo amps and Martin's clock hack.

It wouldn't be changing the op-amps, for example. Do that last for flavouring.

Glenn
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Old 2nd December 2009, 10:51 PM   #13613
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Interesting comments Glenn. I feel it's worth pointing out that when compared with like-for-like mods many people prefer the CD67. The CD67 has a regulated 5V for the servo amps / driver op-amps. I'd still recommend people buy a CD63 though, just so they have the option to really make the player sing (ie. with the servo amp regs and servo chip re-clock)

The bass dynamics on this player are sensational now. It's not a patch on my Philips CD650 for smoothness, timbre or treble but it sounds really good for cheap mods (but quite a few hours with the soldering iron!)

Simon
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Old 3rd December 2009, 07:38 AM   #13614
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I've done my first CD-53 like Ray's list, with LM4562 and a Sercal Reg at the DAC. When I did that the bass went in a first step lower in that boomy area, better but overall far away. Then clock and caps and at the end it was good everywhere, but only when all done.
Then my soon to be fried second CD-53, done clocks and DOS, bass went on the scene when reclocked the Servo.
Now my CD-43, with its even worst output stage. It's 317/337 regulated at drivers, Dac & Servo clocks, few caps and that's it. I am listening at it now, well even if tonal balance and flavor is not that nice it plays the bass with energy as never, it's "just" lacking the music to feel real, the mids are all but good.
All that to say I totally agree with Simon & Glenn, 7808/7908 are really one of the best mods. Simon, wich caps do you use to smooth these +/-8V?

And as I enjoy the CD-43 op amps and their less than tiny caps I agree with Glenn that opamps can be the final touch to make it sounds the way you like.

Matthieu
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Last edited by Malefoda; 3rd December 2009 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 3rd December 2009, 08:18 AM   #13615
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Replacing C813 with some thing over 10000uF and low esr (like a Mundorf or Rifa) makes a big difference to bass and tonal balance. Of course this is the +ve supply for the driver ics. Also bypassing those 2 fuses makes a difference as it eliminates (or lowers) voltage sag.

Brent
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Old 3rd December 2009, 08:24 AM   #13616
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Hi guys,

I used a snap-in 22,000uF / 16V cap in parallel with 1,000uF / 35V nearby on the +10V rail, and a 3,300uF / 16V Panasonic Fc on the -10V rail. I had to re-drill at least 3 holes or move the hole to to a new location. I also had to re-jig the main 7805 heatsink (I had to cut the legs off and rotate it 180 degrees). It was quite a severe job but the results make it totally worthwhile. The bass dynamics are shocking!! That said, the bass could be richer and deeper, but it is very dynamic and detailed in the lower registers

Pics later!

Simon
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Old 3rd December 2009, 08:35 AM   #13617
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Fitment is actually quite easy - 22000uF Mundorf

Drill the +ve hole 1.2mm plop in the cap and rotate so the -ve leg scribes a curve. This curve should then line up with a gnd track under the pcb, drill another 1.2mm hole, clean tracks underneath and solder. The two transistors may need bending flat.

Brent
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Old 3rd December 2009, 09:19 AM   #13618
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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That's a good guide, exactly how I did it!

Simon
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Old 4th December 2009, 11:00 AM   #13619
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Just an update on the CD63 servo regs.

I did the same mod on Steve's CD63 but it didn't like it. It would only read some discs, some of the time. It gave an error 10 - radial error.

I talked to Brent about this and he informed me that his CD63 only worked with the servo amps on +-12V. I removed the 7908 from the radial/focus amp (Q106) and restored the standard -11V. It now reads everything perfectly, and although that chip is now on +8 -11 it seems happy and the player sounds fantastic.

To be honest my other CD63 with +-8V on that chip occasionally skips, I think this may be why. I'd say further investigation is needed here.

Simon
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Old 4th December 2009, 11:40 AM   #13620
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Hi Simon,

Mine works withtout problems at +/-7.6V. It's LM317/337 based with 220/25V ZLs.

Maybe it's in my head but I also have the feeling that maybe it is possible that it happens tha it can be true that it's probalby the case... that it reads discs faster!

I'm not too much aware of engineering but maybe very big caps sucking/slowing juice? Sorry if that sounds stupid

Regards, Matthieu
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