Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1351 - diyAudio
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Old 11th November 2009, 02:52 PM   #13501
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Nice PCB´s Ray !!!
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Old 11th November 2009, 04:52 PM   #13502
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Thanks guys! It's still good fun to see the finished board, after so many hours looking at it on the computer screen

Ray
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Old 11th November 2009, 07:09 PM   #13503
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Got the machine working. Pretty happy so far!

Results still need to be interpreted, but a first listen gave:
+ clearer (even my girlfriend noticed, and that says a lot)
+ bass less boomy
- placement of voices and instruments became worse

LM337 = -11.9V (almost perfect)
LM317 = +12.7V

Would there be any effects from this?

I also measured the entry voltages going into the new regulators. According to the SM, should be +/- 20V.

Vin(LM337) = -17.8V (ok)
Vin(LM317) = 21.3V (ok)

Anyway, pretty proud of my first tweak (leave aside removing the muting stage)!
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Old 12th November 2009, 06:57 PM   #13504
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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How does it sound now ?

Did you remove the output caps ?
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Old 12th November 2009, 07:58 PM   #13505
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Muting and output caps removed, lm317 and lm337 in place. Still waiting for LM4562 to arrive...

But for now, I think you could describe it as more delicate.

Highs and mids are clearer, bass is less 'present'. Not sure how much I like it yet, it is not so warm anymore. I probably need to some to adjust to it as well ;-)

-Would there be any effect from the caps on the regulators to break-in over time?
-Is there an effect from the 'not exactly +/- 12V' output of the regs?
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Old 13th November 2009, 11:10 AM   #13506
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Did you mod the psu caps.... what about the rectifier diodes ?

Bigger psu caps might give you the correction in tone.

Last edited by RCruz; 13th November 2009 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 13th November 2009, 09:31 PM   #13507
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Default Steve

Ian,

many thanks for your help with the clock install. What an effect! It has given my player life! There's an extra layer of detail now that I couldn't hear before.

Op amps next and then I'll need to work out how to bypass the hdam.

Other advice welcome.

Steve
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Old 14th November 2009, 09:10 AM   #13508
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Its good to be the one now giving advice and not taking it!

Make sure you sort the decoupling caps C611-C614 when you do the opamps. As BG's are pretty hard to come by now, I'd go for Rubycon ZA at about 220uF there. While youre at it, i'd also replace the other 4 around the DAC (CD04,07,15 & 16) with the same value.

Bypassing the HDAM's is very straight forward. 1st you can remove the voltage supply to them (meaning the +/-12v supply will now only service the opamps) by removing 4 resistors inbetween the HDAMS (just in front of the 4 caps) R651-R654.

You should also remove and replace with wire links R613-R616 which are the supply rails to the opamps. The resistors were there to help stop interference from other circuits on the rail. As the HDAMs are now isolated (when you removed R651-R654) they will now hinder the performance of the uprated opamps.

The audio out from the opamps can be picked up by removing U210(L) and U212?(R). Pick up the audio from the holes closest the opamp.

If you are retaining the muting circuit, you can link direct to the place where you removed the output caps (as per pick). If you have already bypassed the muting, connect the wire direct to the phono's.

Another pic attached- Red=remove, Blue=Upgrade & Green=Wire link
*save the picture and view it with paint or similar, you can blow it up and see the detail better!

Ian
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File Type: jpg 63 opamp & hdam.jpg (604.3 KB, 163 views)
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Last edited by UV101; 14th November 2009 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 15th November 2009, 09:04 AM   #13509
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Don't forget to insert a 47ohm resistor in series with the output, most opamps don't like the capacitive load of the interconnect! Take a look at some datasheets and look for overshoot pictures with 100pF load

Ray
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Old 15th November 2009, 10:13 AM   #13510
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Nice technical input as I was ready to go direct MKP to RCAs on the CD951... Metallic or carbon? Another part in the audio path region from a saturated condition.

"CAPACITIVE LOAD DRIVE
The AD8510/AD8512/AD8513 are unconditionally stable at all
gains in inverting and noninverting configurations. Each device
is capable of driving a capacitive load of up to 1000 pF without
oscillation in unity gain using the worst-case configuration.
However, as with most amplifiers, driving larger capacitive
loads in a unity gain configuration may cause excessive
overshoot and ringing, or even oscillation.
A simple snubber network significantly reduces the amount of overshoot and
ringing. The advantage of this configuration is that the output
swing of the amplifier is not reduced, because RS is outside the
feedback loop."
The best way Ray?

If any of you wanna help that'll be lovely!
Philips CD951 • A DAC7 (TDA1547) vs TDA1541A R1 vs SM5872 story

Matthieu
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