Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1347 - diyAudio
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Old 8th November 2009, 01:47 PM   #13461
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevief198 View Post
Hi,

sorry to jump in when this thread seems to have come such a long way but I am a novice looking to install an external clock (rockclock) and external psu.

I have generic instructions but can anyone give some more specific instruction on the cd63 mkII ki sig? What do I physically need to do to the existing clock set-up and where exactly do I take the power supply for the psu from. Pictures would be very useful!

thanks
Hi, Would need a bit more info. Do you have the PSU for the clock already or are you just looking to install the clock 1st? Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, get it from Rays pages (see 1st entry in this thread) then we can point a components on the board for you. Let us have as much info as poss and we'll help!
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Old 8th November 2009, 07:37 PM   #13462
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Default stevief

thanks for the response.

Yes I have the psu so am looking to install both together. I have the service manual from ray's pages.

Think I know what to do with the psu (from ray's pictures)but its what to remove exactly and where to connect the external rockclock.

I will then probably install opamps and bypass the hdam as talked about in the early stages of this thread.

thanks again
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Old 8th November 2009, 08:43 PM   #13463
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Hi, Ray's website is really a gold mine,
Ray's Audio Page
Remove U196 and feed your clock here re-using the free hole near the center of the player. Remove CD02/CD03 and use a ground here, outside hole.

As for me I made the first regulated drivers in a CD-43... wich I don't know how to call, 53 or 43... can't hear if it's better with the other parts being OEM. I'm hoping the heatsink will be enough...
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Old 8th November 2009, 09:27 PM   #13464
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Pretty much as Matthieu said with the clock!

Another source of info is here acoustica.org.uk: modifying the Marantz CD63, part 1.

Another good free upgrade is to remove the output caps. There shouldn't be any DC on the output so you can just link these out. The caps are C655-C658. You could also bypass the muting at the same time bay taking the output for the left channel from C655 and the right output from C656 directly to the output.

Another excellent upgrade is the op amps. The best amp in here is Burson discrete op amp modules but they are expensive. The next best is LME49720HA which are little metal cased opamps these are fairly expensive for opamps but are considered the best non discrete opamp. Next the LM4562 which I would just change because the std opamp are very poor. These are excellent value for money and are the 8 pin dil version of the afore mentioned. The LM4562NA is about £5 as opposed to about £15 for the LME metal can version. While you are doing the opamps, you need to replace the 4 decoupling caps C611-C614. Again this will lift the player. You will now be in a position that the HDAM will be the bottleneck! So it'd be time to bypass the HDAM section! There is also the 5v regulator to the Analogue DAC supply. Big gains here for its on 5v low noise reg!

I'm sure that should be enough to get you asking questions!!!!
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Old 8th November 2009, 10:06 PM   #13465
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Default stevief

thanks again,

when you say ground, what exactly do you mean?

you're right, lots more questions to come, but in time. As I said, and is probably obvious, I am a complete beginner.

Steve
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Old 9th November 2009, 10:01 AM   #13466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevief198 View Post
thanks again,

when you say ground, what exactly do you mean?

you're right, lots more questions to come, but in time. As I said, and is probably obvious, I am a complete beginner.

Steve
The clock/psu should be connected to the CDP gnd. Normally in 1 place to stop gnd loops. The clock output should have a clock and a gnd connection. Looking at the rockclock fitting instructions, you need to connect the red clock out (O) to where you've removed U196 in the hole closest the DAC. You can the connect the black gnd (G) to where you've removed CD02 or CD03 in the hole closest the edge of the PCB. Personally I'd drill a new hole closer to the DAC for the Gnd and perform the acoustical clock hack to shorten the gnd trace at the same time. Ian
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Old 9th November 2009, 11:02 AM   #13467
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I'm in the process of building lm317/377 regulators for the cd63SE (to replace the standard 78xx/79xx).

I've spent last night with a protoboard and the required components (included a 220uf/16V cap on both). Since this is my first protoboard product, I would like to test it before blowing up my CDP.

How should I best test the lm317/377?
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Old 9th November 2009, 11:22 AM   #13468
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connect the supply +V and the Gnd 1st and then measure the outpurt voltage! Also, are they for the +/-12v rails? If so, I would fit them on the opamps and leave the originals where they are! Ian
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Old 9th November 2009, 12:02 PM   #13469
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Thanks... should have thought of that myself....

They are for the +/- 12V rails yes. I was planning to use them to replace the originals, as also visible on the picture in message 13646 above.

Pros / Cons of this approach vs. directly powering the opamps?
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Old 9th November 2009, 12:13 PM   #13470
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Originally Posted by studiostevus View Post
Pros / Cons of this approach vs. directly powering the opamps?
i've just looked at the SM again! I thought the servo rails were derrived fromt he 12v rails but they are not. Therefore fit them in the original places.

There is an advantage to fitting the regs directly to the device its supplying buy i'd not worry about it with those regs here!
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