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Old 10th January 2006, 08:27 AM   #121
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He said it was spining but the laser was jumping about.

Its probably either a badly smoothed voltage rail or a RF lock problem.

Its got to be something really minor thats causing the problem.

Or a solder splash
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Old 10th January 2006, 08:34 AM   #122
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by DJNUBZ
Does moding my cd-53 sense when I could just build a nice dac?
Hi DJ,

Your CD53 uses yhe same PCB as the CD63, so if you mod it, you should be able to get it to the same audiophile altitude as a 63
On the other hand, an external DAC could be very nice too. What D/A chip do you have in mind?
The DAC in the 53/63 is not bad, I've read somewhere that it's actually a copy of the famous CS4303! (not bad at all...).

Ray.
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Old 10th January 2006, 08:38 AM   #123
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
He said it was spining but the laser was jumping about.

Its probably either a badly smoothed voltage rail or a RF lock problem.

Its got to be something really minor thats causing the problem.

Or a solder splash
------- SOLDER SPLASH -------

The horror of every electronic (hollow laughing in the background....)

Did ya try service mode yet???

Ray.
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Old 10th January 2006, 09:49 AM   #124
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
Simon..

I don't think the HDAM bypass is causing your fault!

I believe there is probably a dry joint or cracked track around the 12V/5V supplies from flexing the pcb when doing this last mod.

Have alook around Q801 Q802 Q811. Turn the pcb upside down and move the regs slightly and look carefully for any movement on the pcb tracks around the solder.

Also the connectors to the laser etc could have a similar problem.
Good morning Brent, Ray,

I spent hours looking for dry joints last night, to no avail. Perhaps I am not being methodical enough.


Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c


Think I found it! Your clock isn't attached!
Yes - good one! You must have sharp vision


Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
LOL

And there is some bird sh*t on Q105

lmao
Hey, that's visco-elastic damping bird sh*t

Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c
Hmm, looks like guano to me....

But let's be serious. Simon, is your player totally dead, or does it spin?

Ray.
Err, the display works and the drive spins, badly. It makes a slightly worrying, almost scraping noise as it spins. It responds to 'play' by doing something but obviously it's not reading the disk. It doesn't know there's a disk in really as it says 'disc'. But no bangs so that's good.
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Old 10th January 2006, 09:51 AM   #125
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
He said it was spining but the laser was jumping about.

Its probably either a badly smoothed voltage rail or a RF lock problem.

Its got to be something really minor thats causing the problem.

Or a solder splash
Let's hope it's something easy
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Old 10th January 2006, 09:52 AM   #126
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c


------- SOLDER SPLASH -------

The horror of every electronic (hollow laughing in the background....)

Did ya try service mode yet???

Ray.
Hehe, no I've not tried service mode, but as the display works I really should hey!? Will do that next (when I get home).
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Old 10th January 2006, 09:55 AM   #127
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First thing is to check voltages leaving your regs.
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Old 10th January 2006, 10:05 AM   #128
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
First thing is to check voltages leaving your regs.
Could you offer me (and anyone else) an easy way to do this without risking shorting anything out whilst the player is powered up? I've not tested any voltages simply because I don't want to make things worse in my haste to find the fault(s).

One thing I did notice while following the 12v tracks around and checking for continuity, was that while -12v reaches the op-amps and I can see where it would reach the muting circuits (via tiny traces - now cutoff halfway) I cannot see how it gets to the -12v parts of those chips (tdxx..). There is continuity between -12v of these chips (ie. with one chips -12v pins and the next), but not with the -12v regulator. Could this be the problem? The service manual doesn't seem to show where the power traces go.
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Old 10th January 2006, 10:14 AM   #129
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The third pin of Q801 and Q802 are the +/- 12V outputs.

The third pin of Q811 is the 5V output

When measuring make sure your common on the DMM is to gnd, Hdam can is a good place for this (ooops you removed it lol).

Measure pins 13,20,28 on ic Q104 for 5v.
Measure pins 1,2,8,9 on ic Q105/Q106 and QM01 for +/- 10V



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Old 10th January 2006, 11:14 AM   #130
float is offline float  England
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HI Simon,

I remember reading somewhere that the clock must start up no later than the rest of the player (if that makes sense).
Is this still the case with your current clock power arrangements?

Dodgy clock lock will affect transport. ( I think )
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