Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1250 - diyAudio
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Old 16th June 2009, 02:22 PM   #12491
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Best to remove R651 652 653 654 and short out R613 614 615 616. Also remember to lift U210 U214 and remove C655 656 657 658.

Xtals are a sinewave, and basically the dacs input triggers off the +/- of the sines peaks.
Also if you are going to build your own clock you are better off buying a half decent oscillator @ 16.9Mhz. Basically this requires a V input a gnd connection and a clock output. Supply it with a nice psu and its own tx if you can. Base the build of the circuits psu around what you have on those circuit diagrams.

Brent
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Old 16th June 2009, 02:44 PM   #12492
gareth is offline gareth  Wales
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Cheers Simon and Brent. That joke was timeless Simon (it get's worse ).

OK. so what do you mean when you say 'Lift' U210 and 214 ? Remove from circuit??? Also When you say short out R'613 through 616, to where do i short them? That may be a stupid question to you but I don't want to wipe out my machine after all the mod's i have so far successfully achieved.

In the future I do hope to have seperate supplies for the analogue, digital and clock departments as I have some new tx at home.

If I can manage to design a clock based on what i have sen in this book I mentioned could I post it here for your suggestions/approval???

Thanks again
Gareth
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Old 16th June 2009, 02:49 PM   #12493
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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It would be more on-topic than most posts here.

The joke was accidental lol

By short he means just that, replacing the resistor with a solder blob or wire link. There are some resistors in the power rails, some of which I believe act as fuses, and some as a filter circuit. They are detrimental to performance IMO.
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Old 17th June 2009, 08:44 AM   #12494
padman is offline padman  United Kingdom
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Hi Guys

After killing my 67 i have a 63 on its way, finally!

Brent you stated:
Best to remove R651 652 653 654 and short out R613 614 615 616. Also remember to lift U210 U214

On the 67 i removed R651-654 but used EPOCS 100uH/1R7 at 613-616 and did not remove U210 or 214

I also left all HDAM comps in place (lazyness) and p2p wired from U216 to C658 and U217 to C657 leaving muting in place.

This time should i direct wire to new rca's? Would i need a cap of some sort for line voltage?

Simon you stated to replace "horrible orange blobs" with 470pf 1% 630v from farnell would they be the 12 around opamps?
Is that ok as a stand alone mod? Or part of the Bessel filter?

Looking forward to BGs and Tin Hats this time

Thanks all Ian
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Old 17th June 2009, 09:22 AM   #12495
padman is offline padman  United Kingdom
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Ooops! Sorry Ian thought this was simon!
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by UV101
i used 1% polystyrene to replace those horrid orange blobs!

Make sure you study the Bessel filter mod details on Rays website. there's more to it than just changing the cap from 1000uf to 470uf

I ask as i don't wanna break it this time!

Lastly has anyone got the capability to print the schematic for a 63? My printer just refuses to do it with any detail! (cheap rubbish)

Cheers Ian
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Old 18th June 2009, 03:38 PM   #12496
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Just going a little of topic (again ) but you maybe interested.

I have a SA-7S1 in for upgrades at work. This thing is a beast, the build quality is amazing and to be fair so is the sound. It's that good I had to take it home to listen to what it could do and was very impressed. It uses 2x NPC SM5866 dacs.

The front panel where it curves round is 35mm thick machined aluminium!!!

SEE SOME PICS HERE

The pictures do not do it justice. I will get some better pics later

Brent
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Old 18th June 2009, 04:02 PM   #12497
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Looks like a beast, and it will be interesting to see if it can better your CD63 when modified. I rather think it should!

Simon
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Old 19th June 2009, 07:47 AM   #12498
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Well taking it home revealed how good it was, tonally very very similar to mine. Only finest details and lowest basses let it down compared to mine which of course put a huge smile on my face to see what level the 63 was at.

I do think it will better mine once i've upgraded it. I would happily own one of these players.

Brent
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Old 19th June 2009, 09:07 AM   #12499
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Wow that's a beast.
Is it costy and worth it when there are so many "high-end" brands around?
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QED T260, Thorens TD-318, Marantz CD-43, TK2050, JBL 4313B & MJK's OB: music!
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Old 19th June 2009, 09:26 AM   #12500
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It costs approx 6000. It's the only standard player i've been impressed by. Of course it's not worth it when we can upgrade our players to that level for less cost. But for the average man in the street who can afford a large amount on a cd player then yes it is worth it compared to what i've heard from other cd players.

It is very very analogue in sound, nothing out of place and very low distortion. You could listen for hours & hours with no fatigue. Marantz do know how to build a top cd player.

Brent
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