Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 12

SimontY · 9th January 2006, 02:38 PM

The results will be there, even if you didn't experience them in isolation. Coupling feet I found to be very important (I used oak cones), as without doing this the Marantz was a boom n tizz style player with one-note bass. Very tiring indeed.

6h5c · 9th January 2006, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SimontY

Thanks very much for your help. Someone also e-mailed me the service manual. It's a good thing to have because my player now doesn't work, so I have some fault finding to do!

Hi SimontY,

Any luck on your player yet?

Ray.

SimontY · 9th January 2006, 07:11 PM

Hello Ray,

Nope, can't see what the problem is yet, but I only started looking recently. The iron is hot, so I should strike now!

At least I can see U262 now, thanks! I'll take that out. And I found my camera today (thought I'd maybe lost it) so I can take a pic of my laughably messy work.

indefatigable · 9th January 2006, 07:52 PM

I found this page to be helpful:

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html

I did the blutack mods, putting sound deadening inside the chassis, replacing RC filters with LC filters, snipping the output muting transisters, replacing the fixed mains cable with a noise-suppressing input, and replacing some capacitors with slightly larger higher quality caps.

Overall for the effort and cost, it was a very worthwhile improvement at the time. BTW Marantz sent me the schematics for free simply by asking for them.

SimontY · 10th January 2006, 12:45 AM

Evening

Still no joy finding what's wrong with the player, but I don't really know how to fault-find it.

Here it is in it's current state with the jumpered buffer etc.

DJNUBZ · 10th January 2006, 05:38 AM

Does moding my cd-53 sense when I could just build a nice dac?

Fidelity Audio · 10th January 2006, 08:37 AM

Simon..

I don't think the HDAM bypass is causing your fault!

I believe there is probably a dry joint or cracked track around the 12V/5V supplies from flexing the pcb when doing this last mod.

Have alook around Q801 Q802 Q811. Turn the pcb upside down and move the regs slightly and look carefully for any movement on the pcb tracks around the solder.

Also the connectors to the laser etc could have a similar problem.

6h5c · 10th January 2006, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SimontY
Evening

Still no joy finding what's wrong with the player, but I don't really know how to fault-find it.

Here it is in it's current state with the jumpered buffer etc.

Think I found it! Your clock isn't attached!

Fidelity Audio · 10th January 2006, 09:02 AM

LOL

And there is some bird sh*t on Q105

lmao

6h5c · 10th January 2006, 09:22 AM

Hmm, looks like guano to me....

But let's be serious. Simon, is your player totally dead, or does it spin?

Ray.

9th January 2006, 02:38 PM	#111
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	The results will be there, even if you didn't experience them in isolation. Coupling feet I found to be very important (I used oak cones), as without doing this the Marantz was a boom n tizz style player with one-note bass. Very tiring indeed. __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

9th January 2006, 07:11 PM	#113
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	Hello Ray, Nope, can't see what the problem is yet, but I only started looking recently. The iron is hot, so I should strike now! At least I can see U262 now, thanks! I'll take that out. And I found my camera today (thought I'd maybe lost it) so I can take a pic of my laughably messy work. __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

10th January 2006, 05:38 AM	#116
DJNUBZ diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Chicago	Does moding my cd-53 sense when I could just build a nice dac? __________________ http://www.caraudioconnoisseur.com/

10th January 2006, 08:37 AM	#117
Fidelity Audio diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Doncaster England	Simon.. I don't think the HDAM bypass is causing your fault! I believe there is probably a dry joint or cracked track around the 12V/5V supplies from flexing the pcb when doing this last mod. Have alook around Q801 Q802 Q811. Turn the pcb upside down and move the regs slightly and look carefully for any movement on the pcb tracks around the solder. Also the connectors to the laser etc could have a similar problem. __________________ Fidelity Audio - Home of quality products & upgrades - What HiFi 5 Star Headphone amp » Hifi World 5 Star Pre amp » HiFi Choice 5 Star Group test winner HPA-100

10th January 2006, 09:02 AM	#119
Fidelity Audio diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Doncaster England	LOL And there is some bird sht on Q105 lmao __________________ Fidelity Audio* - Home of quality products & upgrades - What HiFi 5 Star Headphone amp » Hifi World 5 Star Pre amp » HiFi Choice 5 Star Group test winner HPA-100


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9th January 2006, 07:52 PM	#114
indefatigable diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Deep south	I found this page to be helpful: http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/cd67.html I did the blutack mods, putting sound deadening inside the chassis, replacing RC filters with LC filters, snipping the output muting transisters, replacing the fixed mains cable with a noise-suppressing input, and replacing some capacitors with slightly larger higher quality caps. Overall for the effort and cost, it was a very worthwhile improvement at the time. BTW Marantz sent me the schematics for free simply by asking for them.

10th January 2006, 09:22 AM	#120
6h5c One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Heerhugowaard	Hmm, looks like guano to me.... But let's be serious. Simon, is your player totally dead, or does it spin? Ray. __________________ Gonna buy my little girl a pink soldering-iron The new DOS-CFP board is out!

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