adfinni said:
Hey andy, where abouts do you get you bitumen dampening from, as i rung up a local car spares shop when i was at home, and they didn't stock any. And most the stuff on the net is a stupid price?
ta ta ta what a lovely day, with fitties everywhere,
Hi.
Yes, the sunny weather brings out the butterflies !
Prestatyn High Street ! A local shop for local people !
Halfords sell the expensive stuff. Try motor factors in Yellow pages.
Andy
Cheers andy.
Il book a private chopper to Prestatyn then, and il bring my welsh housemates for protection from you other welshies
Have been looking around a bit and have seen brown bread and a few other sheets of dampening for about £15-£20, that are wither 1mx80cm or 80cm,60cm.
p.s. i can't out of my window at all the lovelies strutting by. God i love being a student
Il book a private chopper to Prestatyn then, and il bring my welsh housemates for protection from you other welshies
Have been looking around a bit and have seen brown bread and a few other sheets of dampening for about £15-£20, that are wither 1mx80cm or 80cm,60cm.
p.s. i can't out of my window at all the lovelies strutting by. God i love being a student
Discrete output PCB
Hi all,
Here goes the PCB for Ray's HF-filter and discrete output stage. I squeezed the size of the board down to 7.5cm X 6cm for the stereo version with standard resistors. The 300dpi document measures 10x15cm and fits a eurocard.
Both BC550C and BC517 can be replaced by 2SK170 JFET's. The FETS bring higher quality but the ones replacing the BC550C should be matched as tight as possible for best results. Do an internet search on this topic for instructions. R25 has to be replaced by 300 ohm and C11 by a beefy 6uF.
For inputs LON, LO, RON and RO are needed straight from the DAC and need to be isolated from the other parts of the CD63/67 mainboard.
Supply -12Vdc, 0V (ground from starpoint) and +12Vdc. These can be taken from U216 (-12), U218 (+12) and the central point at the RCA output connectors. Optionally 100uF bypass capacitors can be placed between +12 and 0V, and between 0V and -12. While there is no more need for the 12V supplies on the mainboard cut both U216 and U218.
As for the parts needed, take 1% precision or buy a lot and match with the DMM. For the output cap (C11) I used a non-inductive foil type.
Enjoy yourselves
Jaap
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi all,
Here goes the PCB for Ray's HF-filter and discrete output stage. I squeezed the size of the board down to 7.5cm X 6cm for the stereo version with standard resistors. The 300dpi document measures 10x15cm and fits a eurocard.
Both BC550C and BC517 can be replaced by 2SK170 JFET's. The FETS bring higher quality but the ones replacing the BC550C should be matched as tight as possible for best results. Do an internet search on this topic for instructions. R25 has to be replaced by 300 ohm and C11 by a beefy 6uF.
For inputs LON, LO, RON and RO are needed straight from the DAC and need to be isolated from the other parts of the CD63/67 mainboard.
Supply -12Vdc, 0V (ground from starpoint) and +12Vdc. These can be taken from U216 (-12), U218 (+12) and the central point at the RCA output connectors. Optionally 100uF bypass capacitors can be placed between +12 and 0V, and between 0V and -12. While there is no more need for the 12V supplies on the mainboard cut both U216 and U218.
As for the parts needed, take 1% precision or buy a lot and match with the DMM. For the output cap (C11) I used a non-inductive foil type.
Enjoy yourselves
Jaap
adfinni said:Cheers andy.
Il book a private chopper to Prestatyn then, and il bring my welsh housemates for protection from you other welshies
Have been looking around a bit and have seen brown bread and a few other sheets of dampening for about £15-£20, that are wither 1mx80cm or 80cm,60cm.
p.s. i can't out of my window at all the lovelies strutting by. God i love being a student
Local shop local people and sheep
Re: Re: PCB
hi Jaap
only way too etch, looks like mine
diid pcb while ago
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=884172&highlight=#post884172
(tr1) can be bc550's or lm394 or mat02 (lm and mat are dual's)
i'll see if i can make a better pic
allan
disco said:
hi Jaap
only way too etch, looks like mine
diid pcb while ago
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=884172&highlight=#post884172
(tr1) can be bc550's or lm394 or mat02 (lm and mat are dual's)
i'll see if i can make a better pic
allan
ok yesterday evening i performed some mods again to my cd67se. This mod was basically mainly round the power supply, replacing electrolyt capacitors and bypassing them.
* C803/804 replace by 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* C805/806 replace by 2200uF/16V Panasonic FC + 22nF Film
* C813/815 replace by 4700uF/25V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* CD15/16 replace by 470uF/35V Elna Silmic + 22nF Film
* R659/660 replace by 22R carbon resistor (matched pair)
The first impression of these mods was a more defined bass and fuller sound, also less harsh. Will do further listening test in the weekend.
* C803/804 replace by 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* C805/806 replace by 2200uF/16V Panasonic FC + 22nF Film
* C813/815 replace by 4700uF/25V Panasonic FC + 100nF Film
* CD15/16 replace by 470uF/35V Elna Silmic + 22nF Film
* R659/660 replace by 22R carbon resistor (matched pair)
The first impression of these mods was a more defined bass and fuller sound, also less harsh. Will do further listening test in the weekend.
