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#11021 |
diyAudio Member
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I agree, it's just about audible. Bypassing the output capacitors will make a MUCH bigger difference.
Don't remove the HDAM until you've installed a new master clock and op-amps, or it will only sound thin, harsh and muddled - the true nature of this player before serious upgrades. Simon
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#11022 | ||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Gothenburg, the westcoast of Sweden
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Quote:
Quote:
If you adjust the laser as told from service manual everything is OK. I have noticed though, when you tweak a lot (other bigger lyths and so on), you are forced to adjust it. Been there done that My player skipped alot after all tweaks. Adjusting laser and focus .... everything is fine now ![]()
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Cheers// Ove |
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#11023 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Quote:
The CDM12.x is a completely different animal to the CDM4.x Andy
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If it ain't broke, break it !! Then fix it again. It's called DIY ! |
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#11024 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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#11025 | |
nhinstruments
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
![]() What do you mean ?
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RC |
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#11026 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ipswich
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padman [] diyAudio Member Online Registered: Oct 2008 Location: ipswich hello people I have just aquired a marantz cd67 mk11 I have limited funds and even less experience with electronics im looking to improve the above cd player, i read the threads, and get lets say a little lost! Any1 willing to supply info on mods that are simple enough for a real novice ie never taken anything electrical apart or weilded a soldering iron!! 1st what iron to buy? what solder to use? where to buy componants? what mods really work? etc etc I was thinking my 1st attack would be chassis dampening iec socket/cable and isolation platform but where to go from there? any replies would be welcome thanks all ian IP: 82.31.76.xxx Today, at 11:12 AM [close this window] |
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#11027 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aberdeen Scotland
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by 6h5c
[B] Cool huh! ![]() The story that parts need breaking-in is confirmed again. A similar circuit for a phono stage is a whole different ballgame. Signal levels are very small (noise!), and RIAA correction must be implemented of course. There are good discrete designs floating around, a search will probably produce some threads ![]() Have a wee look here I built this years ago and it sounds FAB. http://www.soton.ac.uk/~apm3/diyaudio/JLH_phono.html
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If you give up easily Dont start!! |
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#11028 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aberdeen Scotland
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by padman
1st what iron to buy? what solder to use? where to buy componants? what mods really work? etc etc I was thinking my 1st attack would be chassis dampening iec socket/cable and isolation platform but where to go from there? any replies would be welcome thanks all ian The antex xs25 is a good quality all round iron Silicon cable recommended available here http://www.rapidonline.com/productin...moduleno=73126 And this is quality solder http://www.rapidonline.com/productin...moduleno=30236 Find an old circuit board to practice on or you will likely render your Marantz useless Good luck!!!!!
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If you give up easily Dont start!! |
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#11029 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ipswich
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lol thanks hotiron im now briming with confidence lol!!
seriously im only thinking of a few tweaks open up the sound a little and tighten up the bass. good idea on the practise board got a non working sky box to play with. ian |
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#11030 | |
nhinstruments
diyAudio Member
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by hotiron
[B] Quote:
Hi It seems that film caps take even longer to break in period than the BG caps. Sound is now becoming really impressive. Sounstage is becoming aparent, bass is awesome, dynamics can now compete with my humble RD80 TT..... In a word... I am now a digital "believer" A little out of this thread but worth reporting: Some time ago, I read something about isolating mains from my pre and power amp. Today I implemented a dedicated mains outlet (with a sturdy switch and some 10nF caps) in my Meridian 101 / 103 setup. Now I have a second switch to turn the system on.. (My wife did agree... ![]() The pre switch only controls the pre itself right now... so both are isolated from each other. I was expecting some improvements but I was not ready for this.... Much more headroom... lower distortion... and much better dynamics. Regards Ricardo
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