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#10501 | |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Ray |
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#10502 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#10503 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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![]() One has to keep track of things
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#10504 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Drill the back panel and use a nut and bolt for the tx. Most txs come with insulation pads Brent |
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#10505 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Even with new batteries, the remote only works at about 15cm from the CDP. I will surely try this cap in CY01....I will solder it from the back of the pcb so I do not need to remove it. ..... Regards Ricardo
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RC |
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#10507 | |
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diyAudio Member
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The other option is a 120uF Pana ... too big maybe. Ricardo
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RC |
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#10508 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: DK
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Just use one of the original ones, you must have a bunch of them after having upgraded the whole machine.
Just grab what comes handy.
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/avr300 |
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#10509 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Also check RY11 for resistance. I've seen these go high resistance before, usually after the ribbon not being inserted correctly and shorting 5v to gnd. RY11 should be 4.7 ohm.
If these things mentioned in the thread do not not cure the problem then you may have a duff connector (or you are holding the remote the wrong way round )Brent |
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#10510 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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another thing about output stage, this time Ray's discreete.
how about substituting R11 with a pot ? couldn't one adjust DC offset this way and get rid of the output cap ?? greetings, Pawel i am going to fit discreete output, I am just curious, the cost will be rather small for me, I just need some Rs and low-pass filter components |
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