disco said:Nice job on the IEC Simon.
Don't you espect these long earth wires near the torroid are apt for coupling?
Regards, Jaap
Hi, thanks Jaap, the IEC was a pain but now I won't have a heavy power lead tugging on the board everytime I want to mod it. I don't expect the earth wires to pick up anything from the toroid, do you think they will? Won't any noise be sunk into the IEC earth?
poynton said:
Hi Andy, I couldn't access it either. Bit late for me about the IEC, but Ad said he used a Dremmel and had it done in 5mins! Gees, it took me ages.
rowemeister said:
Morning Brent, yeh I was enjoying it yesterday, very nice improvement. But I took it back to the dining table last night to wire it to the IEC socket and also to add the two points I'd missed!
Btw, the screwdown terminal is for the earth run that connects the mech pcb.Those Kimber wires aren't overly flexible in bulk so it's gonna be a pain trying to properly mount the little board anywhere, but when I do (if I do lol) I'll try to keep the wires away from the toroid.
Hey brent.
I was already trying that just before i saw your post
It's all good with the old -12V reg from the psu section
I guess il have to order another -12V audicom reg, do you think there is any point of me trying to get a replacement from them fro free, with this one being faulty ?
cheers
I was already trying that just before i saw your post
It's all good with the old -12V reg from the psu section
I guess il have to order another -12V audicom reg, do you think there is any point of me trying to get a replacement from them fro free, with this one being faulty ?
cheers
adfinni said:Hey brent.
I was already trying that just before i saw your post
It's all good with the old -12V reg from the psu section
I guess il have to order another -12V audicom reg, do you think there is any point of me trying to get a replacement from them fro free, with this one being faulty ?
cheers
I would contact them yes
He is normally very reasonable.
Just tell them you soldered both regs into pcb to replace the original regs. And you had no audio and found the -12v rail to be 0v.
Dont tell them you were wiring them else where or they will have ammo.
Also have a close look at the reg pcb see if you can see a poorly soldered component, maybe its not lifting its current under load
Brent
rowemeister said:
bottom of his posts
Nad 1300 pre amp
2x NAD 2600 power amp's
Marantz cd67se
Philips 963SA
Kef Q35
some component and link numbers are different between cd63 and cd67
i looked at some mods posted and thought "that doesn't make sense"
then realised cd63 mod, me cd67
so everyone be carefull, check the model being modded
allan
Schematic of CD63mkII?
Hi all,
I've recently bought a used CD-63mkII and I've been kind of attracted by the nice performance you've achieved by modding it.
However, I dislike doing any of those mods before taking a closer look at the CD-player schematic and finding out what exactly I am doing. So I was wondering if some of you can post the schematic of this particular CD-player? It seems that all these models CD53-57-63-67 a very similar, so probably any other schematic wil do...
Regards,
Petar
Hi all,
I've recently bought a used CD-63mkII and I've been kind of attracted by the nice performance you've achieved by modding it.
However, I dislike doing any of those mods before taking a closer look at the CD-player schematic and finding out what exactly I am doing. So I was wondering if some of you can post the schematic of this particular CD-player? It seems that all these models CD53-57-63-67 a very similar, so probably any other schematic wil do...
Regards,
Petar
You can find the service manual for the cd63 here
http://members.chello.at/blomquist/CD63_Schema.pdf
http://members.chello.at/blomquist/CD63_Schema.pdf
Hey disco
Thanks for your email regarding my crazy cd motor. I can't get private messages here tho
I checked my player and i did pull ou u262 and 263 for the muting mod, but u161 was still in firmly in its place.
Unfortunately that player is dead, as every thime i change teh 2 fuses in the psu area, they blow again when i turn it on, so there is something quite wrong with it.
b.t.w. spoke to mark at audiocom and he said get it sent back for a replacement. SCORE !
But unfortunately my pcb took a pounding with the constant removal and checking of components, and a couple of traces where teh o-amp legs go in are coming up. Those will be left in place for the time being
Thanks for your email regarding my crazy cd motor. I can't get private messages here tho
I checked my player and i did pull ou u262 and 263 for the muting mod, but u161 was still in firmly in its place.
Unfortunately that player is dead, as every thime i change teh 2 fuses in the psu area, they blow again when i turn it on, so there is something quite wrong with it.
b.t.w. spoke to mark at audiocom and he said get it sent back for a replacement. SCORE !
But unfortunately my pcb took a pounding with the constant removal and checking of components, and a couple of traces where teh o-amp legs go in are coming up. Those will be left in place for the time being
Ok, these are the mods i have done so far. From what i read from this thread these are "basically" the mods that show the biggest improvements.
My questions is now what mods are next for biggest improvements? I'm not planning to go all the way with modding my player, but just the mods wich show the biggest improvements.
* replaced opamps for ad826/ad8620/opa2134
* removed output dc blocking caps
* removed muting transistors
* Disabled headphone circuit
* Disabled HDAM
* supplied 8 x 100 nF decoupling caps around opamps and powersupply
* replaced clock with tentlabs clock
* Replaced mains inlet with iec inlet with emi filtering grounded at rca
* put 4n7 cap accros mains at jh03
* damped the cabinet and cdm12.1 with bitum material (7kg now)
My questions is now what mods are next for biggest improvements? I'm not planning to go all the way with modding my player, but just the mods wich show the biggest improvements.
* replaced opamps for ad826/ad8620/opa2134
* removed output dc blocking caps
* removed muting transistors
* Disabled headphone circuit
* Disabled HDAM
* supplied 8 x 100 nF decoupling caps around opamps and powersupply
* replaced clock with tentlabs clock
* Replaced mains inlet with iec inlet with emi filtering grounded at rca
* put 4n7 cap accros mains at jh03
* damped the cabinet and cdm12.1 with bitum material (7kg now)
adfinni said:
Hi
You really need to go back to basics in trouble shooting the +-10 supply.
Isolate the supply by removing jumpersU161, U162 and also the +5v regulator.
If it still blows a fuse , replace the diodes and check the caps, C813, C814, for shorts.
If all appears ok, replace the +5v regulator.
Then it's a case of removing [one leg] the safety resistors on the servo chips , testing and replacing til it blows.
The CD6000 I showed on the thread some time ago had this symptom - one of the schottky diodes was ok on low volts [test meter] but very leaky on AC.
Andy
gy21 said:
Off the top of my head these are the mods that helped the most.
Cheap easy and good mods first.
1) opamps
2) Bypass Hdam and output caps
3) Seperate regs for DAC and Decoder
4) Upgrade caps around DAC and Decoder to Pana FC or similar
5) coax
6) Damping of chassis
7) Decoupling around opamps etc
8) Muting removal
9) Removed caps from opamps to Headphone circuit
Cheap and a little more complex
Best mods price not so important.
1) Seperate regs on as many v lines as possible
2) Clock
3) good opamp
4) Bypass HDAM and output caps
5) seperate PSU for regs
6) Black gate caps
7) change caps on servo and opamps to silver mica types with good low tol resistors
8) A star earth
9) Coax
10) Damping
The list goes on but this is pretty much my top 10
Brent
Greetings from Turkey!
Wow!
I've been away on business for nearly a week and probably about 200 posts! Shocking. And Elso almost marring the reputation of this thread as the friendliest I know.
It did cross my mind once to change the regulation for my Kwak clock, but I'll have to do it in secret now
Ray, so what is you favourite? Valve, Bipolar or Fet? Can you tell any difference between the two transistor styles? Are you going to spend the next stage of your output stage frenzy comparing different models of transistor/valve?
I hope to finally fix my radial issue when I return next week, and then I should finally get some time to get back into modding my beloved Marantz. Can't wait, its been weeks.
Also, going to get a 'spare' off of Ebay. I think its quite handy to do this, unless you're really careful.
Cheers,
Phil
Wow!
I've been away on business for nearly a week and probably about 200 posts! Shocking. And Elso almost marring the reputation of this thread as the friendliest I know.
It did cross my mind once to change the regulation for my Kwak clock, but I'll have to do it in secret now
Ray, so what is you favourite? Valve, Bipolar or Fet? Can you tell any difference between the two transistor styles? Are you going to spend the next stage of your output stage frenzy comparing different models of transistor/valve?
I hope to finally fix my radial issue when I return next week, and then I should finally get some time to get back into modding my beloved Marantz. Can't wait, its been weeks.
Also, going to get a 'spare' off of Ebay. I think its quite handy to do this, unless you're really careful.
Cheers,
Phil
rowemeister said:
HAHA, theres no human part of me left.
I'm now just made of upgraded caps, a superclock 2 for my brain powered by a separate psu (heart), with a number of upgraded super-dooper-regs (arteries) to make sure all the parts get clean power.
Next thing on my list is bypassing a number of arteries with some coax cable.