actually...it was you who did all the soldering! I'm hopeless. Found the following: might be of interest Discrete Voltage Regulators - Sparkos Labs.com I assume these are a drop in replacement for the ones you used? On a whole nuther topic and forgive me for diverging from the true path, but this cdp looks very interesting: Sparkler Audio | English ( their cdplayer) any thoughts?
I know, I was just jerking around 
Those regulators look nice, they are certainly an option. I wonder what the price is going to be, if it's astronomically high you may as well get some Tentlabs shunts.
This notebook player is not my thing, I don't like the design and i'm not fond of TDA1543 DAC's...
Those regulators look nice, they are certainly an option. I wonder what the price is going to be, if it's astronomically high you may as well get some Tentlabs shunts.
This notebook player is not my thing, I don't like the design and i'm not fond of TDA1543 DAC's...
Hi Shepperd,
I was looking at some earlier pics of your player that you posted. The output caps look like they're Vishay MKP1839 but the resolution doesn't let me see the lettering.
Can you confirm? Are they the HQ version or ordinary. What size (uf and v) are they?
Thanks
Pete
Super Raygulators
Hi,
I'm building some of the 'Super Raygulators' - LM317's with the capacitor multiplier on the input for my 63, but can't get the correct Vout - I get 11V out from a 12.5 Vin for a circuit with the LED's set to give 5V out (LED forward voltage 3.1V). Searching through earlier posts on these it looks like the datasheet I have for the LM317 has a different pin layout - see picture below. Is this correct or is the datasheet wrong? Looks like earlier posts have Vin, Adj, Vout as pins 1-3, I've got Adj, Vout, Vin...
Here's the link to the LM317's I bought:
LM317BTG - ON SEMICONDUCTOR - V REG ADJ +1.2/37V, TO-220-3, 317 | Farnell element14
And the pin diagram from the datasheet:
Hi,
I'm building some of the 'Super Raygulators' - LM317's with the capacitor multiplier on the input for my 63, but can't get the correct Vout - I get 11V out from a 12.5 Vin for a circuit with the LED's set to give 5V out (LED forward voltage 3.1V). Searching through earlier posts on these it looks like the datasheet I have for the LM317 has a different pin layout - see picture below. Is this correct or is the datasheet wrong? Looks like earlier posts have Vin, Adj, Vout as pins 1-3, I've got Adj, Vout, Vin...
Here's the link to the LM317's I bought:
LM317BTG - ON SEMICONDUCTOR - V REG ADJ +1.2/37V, TO-220-3, 317 | Farnell element14
And the pin diagram from the datasheet:
Attachments
Haha people wonders between old world (things from 90s are old I've been told, so am I) and the new one. But quality has nothing to do with time.
I am also increasing my CD collection, but there is a kind of feeling "is that making sens anymore?" in doing so.
My CD43 sings very well, remember a lesser CD53 done for a friend (Flea, DOS, TXs...) has holden proud beside a 2500€ new Marantz? So will do a tiny CD43
The price/sound Q ratio is just terrific. And shop keeper does not like to discuss that too much... I understand!
Now I am thinking, still using CD as my main source ; but feeding 44.1/16 PCM to a DAC wich can also shift over time to mini-PC/Volumio based source.
And that calls for the same! Insanly cheap transport feeding "a great DAC".
But here you are asked to answer CD63's folks my needs for sound quality comparaisons and expectations, share your experience please! Even Martin, AVR300 and other silent readers... =)
Where is the CD63 in the transports crowd, being already modded with regulated +/-10, large TX here, coaxial cable for HF, reclocked servo? Not on paper, but IRL if ever seen one...
Many time I've seen this is not a good candidate for transport, look at older Philips based mechs, Stable Pioneer, Teac's VRDS. Or cheap DVD based things, Denon players...
I've played a bit with gears around ; the 2500€ valued CD53, a good quality DAC (8x TDA1387 based, same great SQ/Price ratio), amp being a Trupath TA3020, speakers Kef R500. We were shifting source from internal DAC to the TDA1387, the CD53 being then just the transport. Sounded... almost the same with tiny bit of extra space and smoothness with the Marantz's DAC. That is a 65€ DAC... OK that tells nothing about transport but the fact it "could" sound better with a great DAC, so (complicated guess I agree) the CD53 as transport is not that bad.
I myself own a Teac VRDS10, wich is a true VRDS (not plastic fake like in VRDS T1).
Using my even better CD43 (than the CD53, following me?), the VRDS (stock) and same TDA1387 DAC, I've played Kenna's Wide Awake song (wich needs great bass and wide stereo image) and the infamous CD43 won the fight. There is maybe (a kind of feeling from both listeners) extra grain/easiness/details in mids highs on the VRDS, but so flat, narrow, dead. Amp is UCD400HG HxR, speakers modded JBL 4313B.
My CD43 can't be replaced by the VRDS, even if people out there finds it great, it is not.
Yes, it does not have a Flea, caps are old, RCA is no 75R BNC and such. (I've done the scope and tuning on the laser wich is fine and no source of bad sound here).
These Marantz are real keepers, when fully modded, no half-way.. compared to my tiny DAC only... Or that DAC is not great just fine, and the Marantz's one outdated... but that 2500€ player in shop?!
Keep my CD43 as intergrated CD player until the end of the world, havind DAC for PC based stuff only, and sell the VRDS to buy more records?
If only I can be confident in the fact the VRDS 10 a bit modded will be the new king... but who knows... not me!
I am also increasing my CD collection, but there is a kind of feeling "is that making sens anymore?" in doing so.
My CD43 sings very well, remember a lesser CD53 done for a friend (Flea, DOS, TXs...) has holden proud beside a 2500€ new Marantz? So will do a tiny CD43
The price/sound Q ratio is just terrific. And shop keeper does not like to discuss that too much... I understand!
Now I am thinking, still using CD as my main source ; but feeding 44.1/16 PCM to a DAC wich can also shift over time to mini-PC/Volumio based source.
And that calls for the same! Insanly cheap transport feeding "a great DAC".
But here you are asked to answer CD63's folks my needs for sound quality comparaisons and expectations, share your experience please! Even Martin, AVR300 and other silent readers... =)
Where is the CD63 in the transports crowd, being already modded with regulated +/-10, large TX here, coaxial cable for HF, reclocked servo? Not on paper, but IRL if ever seen one...
Many time I've seen this is not a good candidate for transport, look at older Philips based mechs, Stable Pioneer, Teac's VRDS. Or cheap DVD based things, Denon players...
I've played a bit with gears around ; the 2500€ valued CD53, a good quality DAC (8x TDA1387 based, same great SQ/Price ratio), amp being a Trupath TA3020, speakers Kef R500. We were shifting source from internal DAC to the TDA1387, the CD53 being then just the transport. Sounded... almost the same with tiny bit of extra space and smoothness with the Marantz's DAC. That is a 65€ DAC... OK that tells nothing about transport but the fact it "could" sound better with a great DAC, so (complicated guess I agree) the CD53 as transport is not that bad.
I myself own a Teac VRDS10, wich is a true VRDS (not plastic fake like in VRDS T1).
Using my even better CD43 (than the CD53, following me?), the VRDS (stock) and same TDA1387 DAC, I've played Kenna's Wide Awake song (wich needs great bass and wide stereo image) and the infamous CD43 won the fight. There is maybe (a kind of feeling from both listeners) extra grain/easiness/details in mids highs on the VRDS, but so flat, narrow, dead. Amp is UCD400HG HxR, speakers modded JBL 4313B.
My CD43 can't be replaced by the VRDS, even if people out there finds it great, it is not.
Yes, it does not have a Flea, caps are old, RCA is no 75R BNC and such. (I've done the scope and tuning on the laser wich is fine and no source of bad sound here).
These Marantz are real keepers, when fully modded, no half-way.. compared to my tiny DAC only... Or that DAC is not great just fine, and the Marantz's one outdated... but that 2500€ player in shop?!
Keep my CD43 as intergrated CD player until the end of the world, havind DAC for PC based stuff only, and sell the VRDS to buy more records?
If only I can be confident in the fact the VRDS 10 a bit modded will be the new king... but who knows... not me!
The datasheet is correct! The pinout for every LM317 in the world is the same thank goodness
Here's a schematic for the 12V version, maybe it can be of help. If you replace the zener/diode combo with some LEDs, it should get you near 5V. Total forward voltage should be near 3.75V because the reference voltage of the LM317 is 1.25V and it adds to your forward voltage. You can fine-tune with a 1N4148 diode if needed, just like in the schematic. One diode will add about 0.6V to the output voltage.
Just don't put any zeners in parallel, that doesn't make any sense...
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray,
#16493
Don't knock yourself out, I think it was Brent who fitted them.
Regards
Pete
Hi,
Vin, Adj, Vout is the pin arrangement for the std 7805 voltage reg fitted in the machine.
LM317 is Adj, Vout, Vin so it's not a straight drop in replacement, you have to allow for the pin matching in the circuit on the board that you build your superrayreg on.
Regards
Pete
Thanks, yes that's correct. Can't make anything of them either, they look like standard MKT's to me.
Please enlighten us Shep! There's your upgrade opportunity!
I would replace these with something more appropriate like Mundorf EVO or Jantzen Silver-Z for example.
Partsconnexion has 20% off all film caps this month.
Ray
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I think you are right, Brent badged....The extent of my DIY, with failing eyesight etc. is putting something in a box and mailing it to wiser heads and steadier hands...sorry guys but I confess i profit from other's work! So Ray, you still can do? We're practically next door. Anything and everything that appeals to your good sense. I'm off to Malta for work for two weeks soon and could post it before leaving. Pretty please!
No, sorry Shep. I'm very close to saying yes, just to help you out and answer my audiophile heart, but I simply don't have the time for such an operation.
Switching the caps is not a big deal, that's easily done. But I recall how fragile the PCB was the last time I had the player here, and I don't want to think about having to get it to work again when it arrives here and some PCB track has broken. It's not just the caps, but I have to return the player to you in good working order, you see.
Quick-and-dirty solution is just to snip the wires off close to the existing caps and solder in some new ones.
Switching the caps is not a big deal, that's easily done. But I recall how fragile the PCB was the last time I had the player here, and I don't want to think about having to get it to work again when it arrives here and some PCB track has broken. It's not just the caps, but I have to return the player to you in good working order, you see.
Quick-and-dirty solution is just to snip the wires off close to the existing caps and solder in some new ones.
understand and thanks for almost saying yes. Maybe if you could show we where, I can attempt the dirty solution. What I will do is take a better picture, send you that in a email and you can put an arrow (photoshop or the like) where and what. If it means undoing the PCB board Ill leave it alone. I assume I just order the same (mundorf) values. You ok with that?