Ok, measured the 317/337 reg temperatures today with a DMM - they run at ca 56...58 degrees.
Dropped in LME49720 today also - with SKK 510 heatsinks they run at ca 46 degrees.
My experience with the older version of Burson opamp is quite good. It is warmer and more analogue than IC opamps such as LM 4562. The only drawback is its high price.
I have also used a number of discrete opamps from Audio-GD but it seems they have discontinued listing them in their web site. The price is much much cheaper and the SQ is quite good. May be you can send an e-mail to audio-gd and enquire if they still have stocks remaining. They also produce very nice low jitter clocks with very reasonable price though I cannot see any listing on their web page now.
Thanks highlander,
I just bought a CD63 SE as a backup digital source for the lab and of course I am going to make a few mods. There is not enough space for a tubed output stage with a good dedicated power supply, so may be I will go for Burson discrete opamps despite their price.
But... let's try the other Ray's mods first
Changed the power chord, damped transport and chassis with carbon block, bypassed the output coupling caps with 4.7micro mkt, modified the power supply following "the List" recommendations, allowed a couple of days for break in.
Not really impressed with the result.
More detail, more impact, deeper stage but still a rather artificial sound.
I am waiting for separate clock and other parts to procede with further mods.
At the moment my ultra cheap modified Philips CD608 still sounds closer to real music.
Not really impressed with the result.
More detail, more impact, deeper stage but still a rather artificial sound.
I am waiting for separate clock and other parts to procede with further mods.
At the moment my ultra cheap modified Philips CD608 still sounds closer to real music.
Hoping someone can help me here!
I've done extensive mods to my CD67SE and all are good, except the noise from the removal of muting transistors! This weekend i attempted to install the relay board a lot of people have used from ebay (12v version). I found the 12v supply ok and did all the modifications; however I can't get it to work properly! Upon testing the voltage coming through from the muting lines, I can see 0.60v when no audio is playing, rising to 0.83v when it is - which isn't enough to trigger the relay switching.
Can anyone help at all? I've gone through the mod changes a dozen times and everything looks right, only difference is instead of 2k2 resistors i've used 2k26 - but wouldn't have thought that would make enough of a difference?
I've done extensive mods to my CD67SE and all are good, except the noise from the removal of muting transistors! This weekend i attempted to install the relay board a lot of people have used from ebay (12v version). I found the 12v supply ok and did all the modifications; however I can't get it to work properly! Upon testing the voltage coming through from the muting lines, I can see 0.60v when no audio is playing, rising to 0.83v when it is - which isn't enough to trigger the relay switching.
Can anyone help at all? I've gone through the mod changes a dozen times and everything looks right, only difference is instead of 2k2 resistors i've used 2k26 - but wouldn't have thought that would make enough of a difference?
Could you post a link to the board you use? There are a lot of relay boards on e-Bay
The 2k26 is fine, that won't make a difference.
Haha sorry - would help wouldn't it!
DPDT Signal Relay Module, 12Vdc, TAKAMISAWA RY12W-K Relay, Assembled. | eBay
Think it's the same as a few people have used?
That's the one, looks familiar.
Have you tried touching the INPUT pin to VCC? It should switch correctly then.
Make sure you use the NC contacts for muting, COM goes to GND. There has to be at least 47 ohm resistance between the player's output and the relay, this is to prevent a direct short-circuit to GND of the outputs. Normally there's R657 thru R660 on the player's board that take care of this, you can jumper one and replace the other with 47 ohm if you like. Connect the relay contacts where QN07 and QN08 would be.
Regards,
Ray
Have you tried touching the INPUT pin to VCC? It should switch correctly then.
Make sure you use the NC contacts for muting, COM goes to GND. There has to be at least 47 ohm resistance between the player's output and the relay, this is to prevent a direct short-circuit to GND of the outputs. Normally there's R657 thru R660 on the player's board that take care of this, you can jumper one and replace the other with 47 ohm if you like. Connect the relay contacts where QN07 and QN08 would be.
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray
If I touch vcc to input the rely does indeed work perfectly, so no problem there
i have already fitted some 47R resistors inline from the previous mods and thats all good, have followed all the tips given on your site and from other posts in this immense thread to make sure everything is right : -
removed RN27-28
Replaced RN30-31 with 2k26 resistors
Removed QN24-25 and shorted base and collector pins on each.
RN657-658 replaced with jumpers, RN659-660 replaced with 47R.
Input connected to base of QN07 socket, NC1/NC2 connected to Emitter of QN07/QN08 sockets, COM1/2 connected to GND.
Result is 0.60v/0.83....tested for continuity and the muting circuit has no continuity issues (upto RN17)
Not sure what i'm doing wrong?! checked also and there is 5v into the muting circuit (perm to emitter pins of QN24-25...at a loss!
HELP!
If I touch vcc to input the rely does indeed work perfectly, so no problem there
i have already fitted some 47R resistors inline from the previous mods and thats all good, have followed all the tips given on your site and from other posts in this immense thread to make sure everything is right : -
removed RN27-28
Replaced RN30-31 with 2k26 resistors
Removed QN24-25 and shorted base and collector pins on each.
RN657-658 replaced with jumpers, RN659-660 replaced with 47R.
Input connected to base of QN07 socket, NC1/NC2 connected to Emitter of QN07/QN08 sockets, COM1/2 connected to GND.
Result is 0.60v/0.83....tested for continuity and the muting circuit has no continuity issues (upto RN17)
Not sure what i'm doing wrong?! checked also and there is 5v into the muting circuit (perm to emitter pins of QN24-25...at a loss!
HELP!
If you look at my schematic, there are no additional resistors around the muting transistor, that's the problem.
Try removing the 100k resistor between base and GND on the relay board. This resistor is draining away too much current. If that doesn't help, jumper the 10k resistor in series with the base. Now you're driving the BC517 directly, should be fine this way
Regards,
Ray
Try removing the 100k resistor between base and GND on the relay board. This resistor is draining away too much current. If that doesn't help, jumper the 10k resistor in series with the base. Now you're driving the BC517 directly, should be fine this way
Regards,
Ray
Marantz CD 63 Ki Ray's modification
Hi Ray,
I'm built the Ray's modification on my Cd63 KI, but I have two Questions:
1. The modfications list contents L601/L602 original parts, but I don't what can I do them.
2. On the pictures: [SIZE=-1]Achterzijde voedingsgedeelte[/SIZE] I see 2 blue 100nf capacitors, what not in modifications list.
I would like order the The Flea DIY kit and cisrcuit, but I didnt find what can I do on the Ray Shop.
Best regards,
Barnabas
Hi Ray,
I'm built the Ray's modification on my Cd63 KI, but I have two Questions:
1. The modfications list contents L601/L602 original parts, but I don't what can I do them.
2. On the pictures: [SIZE=-1]Achterzijde voedingsgedeelte[/SIZE] I see 2 blue 100nf capacitors, what not in modifications list.
I would like order the The Flea DIY kit and cisrcuit, but I didnt find what can I do on the Ray Shop.
Best regards,
Barnabas
Hi Barnabas,
The original L601 and L602 can stay in the player. I was planning to find a better part for them so they could be upgraded, but finding a good low-tolerance inductor is a bit of a pain...
5% is the best you can get, you may replace them with 110-3605 or 511-651 (Farnell). I don't know what the tolerance of the original part is, could you post the color code that's on it?
The blue capacitors on the back of the board are connected to the muting lines. They are decoupling these long board-traces to ground, because they pick up a lot of noise along the way. They are described in the "MORE MOD'S" section in the modslist.
If you'd like to order a Flea kit, just send me an e-mail using the address at the bottom of my Audioshop page.
Regards,
Raymond
Hi David,
That's great, it will make a nice addition to my Crescendo-page!
You can send it to the shop address if you like, thanks a lot!
Regards,
Raymond
Great to see this thread still going strong. I lost track around page 1000 and haven't the courage to catch up! so I don't know what I have missed. My 67, modified by Ray some time ago, goes strong with no issues. But...being greedy and curious I reach out to the Master, asking if in the intervening he has discovered yet further ways and means to turn this sows ear into an even silkier purse? ( i.e. more and better mods)
I'm game to see just how far this can be taken without major surgery. Thanks in advance. ps We MUST resist the awful temptation to do away with our magic machines in favor of the dreaded digital stream. I for one am not only holding onto my cd collection but increasing it.
I'm game to see just how far this can be taken without major surgery. Thanks in advance. ps We MUST resist the awful temptation to do away with our magic machines in favor of the dreaded digital stream. I for one am not only holding onto my cd collection but increasing it.