Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

The 4kHz peak only appears in the background 'silence' of my CD63. It does not modulate the output signal, which also measures nice and flat when I analyse the audio frequency test sweeps on the above-mentioned test CD.

Just catching-up on this thread :)

Ben - what's the sampling rate of your soundcard? You might only be seeing intermod between the 44.1Khz -based noise on the DAC output and a 48Khz soundcard sampling rate. Try altering the sample rate if you can, see if it dissappears.

I think its a measuerment artifact TBH, I really don't think you'd get such a pronounced peak from any regulator (ive never managed to provie it anyway! It would have to be very high-Q resonance to be that narrow/tall. Regulator influence tends to show up as very low q (<< 1dB) much wider-bandwidth influences - if you can spot it all - or clear oscillation in the Mhz range (which is much easier to arrange!)
 
Hi Martin,

I was sampling at 44.1kHz, but I'm with you - I bet it was a measurement artifact too.
I didn't see the same effect when sampling background noise from other equipment, but perhaps it could've been a side effect of the high (>6v) DC offset of my player? I'll dig in some more and report back at some point. I'm just enjoying the music for the time being! :)

Cheers,

Ben
 
Hello,
I am new to this thread and after reading about 350 pages(sorry if i didn't reach the end of this thread,but my eyes are not help me any more)and also forgive me if i am going to repeat something that i haven't read, i deside to write here and share my experience with my cd63 and the mods i did to it.
Mods are nothing special and they allready been done in this thread.
1.Hack the clock as the acoustica org.This make the bigest difference of all mods.
2.Remove muting tranzistors blocking capacitors and also remove the headphones jumbers,capacitors and also Q901 all of them make a little difference.
3.Replace the resistors and capacitors in the buffer with silver mica and 0.1% holco and vishay.
4.Replace 2114 with LM4562's.
5.Change capacitors in power supply with same value BC Vishay.

Let it burn in for 48 hours and today did a comparison with a 63 KI Signature.
Mine was a little more clear and live with better and more controlled base but overall a little closed,and the kis has this sweetnes in the mids and better soundstage than the moded one.
So i am asking my self if we try to achive something that we have allready(KIs)in our hands or was something wrong with my mods?
Please also have in mind that i have in my posession many players with TDA1541 dac,i.e philips 880,960 sony es337,cambridge cd3,arcam a, marantz cd50.All of these are stock and not modified and they are better sounding players than the 63,the 63 wins hans down at the bottom end.
Thanasis.
 
higlander,no i haven't byprass HDAM circuits.
If i replace the servo and dac clock which are the gains that i will take from this mode?Allready mine has better timing than the Kis with the hack suggested from acoustica org,and when you mean increasing the capacity of the transformer are you suggesting of replace it with different one?The problem is the bigger sounstage and the sweetness on mids Kis has as stock.
So,i am asking here,why bother modding it further with questionable results,and not sell it and buy a Kis.
I know i will miss the fun of modding but until now at this stage,results are not as described by other people.I know,different people, different hearing!!!Does it need more burn in period????Will it change dramatically to the better?

Thanasis.
 
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list Reply to Thread

higlander,no i haven't byprass HDAM circuits.
If i replace the servo and dac clock which are the gains that i will take from this mode?Allready mine has better timing than the Kis with the hack suggested from acoustica org,and when you mean increasing the capacity of the transformer are you suggesting of replace it with different one?The problem is the bigger sounstage and the sweetness on mids Kis has as stock.
So,i am asking here,why bother modding it further with questionable results,and not sell it and buy a Kis.
I know i will miss the fun of modding but until now at this stage,results are not as described by other people.I know,different people, different hearing!!!Does it need more burn in period????Will it change dramatically to the better?

Thanasis.

Ok,here i have some parts from previous projects that never finished and i wonder if they can be used in the cd-63 player.Problem is that i have no idea where to connect them if they are any good for the mods,so any help will be apreciated.
1.Power supply with transformer for the s-clock(very old but work as it should)which gives 13.02 volt output measured with a multimeter.
2.Regulated power supply from a lampucera dac without a t/x and it has on the big heatshink a l7805 and on smaller heatshinks l7912 and l7812.
Can those parts be usufull for the cd-63?

Thanasis.
 

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I suggest you better bypass the HDAM circuit as this is the bottleneck for better SQ after the mod. If you go through the threads of this forum you can find many had been said why you need to bypass the HDAM for better SQ. Just try it out and I am sure you will be surprised by the great improvement in the SQ !!

As to the clock, timing is one thing but the most critical criteria for performance is to have clocks with very low noise jitters.

You may wish to know that I have modded a total 8 CD63s for my friends and I have posted my experiences and photos in this forum sometime ago. (See my thread in #19156 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1916.html)

I can tell you the CD63 I modded for myself has far better performance than my previously owned Leema Antila IIs (costing £3300) that eventually I got rid of in the eBay. I can only say modding a CD63 can out perform very expensive CDPs provided you do it right.
 
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1.Power supply with transformer for the s-clock(very old but work as it should)which gives 13.02 volt output measured with a multimeter.
2.Regulated power supply from a lampucera dac without a t/x and it has on the big heatshink a l7805 and on smaller heatshinks l7912 and l7812.
Can those parts be usufull for the cd-63?

Thanasis.
The power supply for the s-clock is of basic design that has no voltage regulation and prone to be noisy. If you want to use it for your future low jitter clocks you need to add some low noise regulators to it.

The regulated power supply circuit is also of basic design using cheap 7805 (supply +5V output) and 7912 and 7812 (providing + and - 12V output). Your CD63's analogue rail is also using 7912 and 7812 for the two op amps. Therefore this unit is of not much use when you mod your CD63. Actually in order to improve the performance of the analogue rail what you need to do is to replace the two on the board 7812 ans 7912 with two very low noise voltage regulators such as Fidelity Audio's S-Power.
 
higlander,thanks for the tips.One more question,if i follow your sugestions for changing the capacitors ,as you advised on page 1916,with those big capacitance value and keep marantz's own t/x, will i have problems for example overheating or even shortage as the worst scenario?
If and i say if,i add another transformer,which the secondaries must be?
Thank you.
 
higlander,thanks for the tips.One more question,if i follow your sugestions for changing the capacitors ,as you advised on page 1916,with those big capacitance value and keep marantz's own t/x, will i have problems for example overheating or even shortage as the worst scenario?
If and i say if,i add another transformer,which the secondaries must be?
Thank you.

You won't have problem with the existing TX when you change the caps to bigger values. It will certainly improve the voltage stability. However BIG improvement can be heard if you also change the TX with bigger VAs.

If you have a KI then you may retain the toroidal TX and just disconnect the supply to the servo circuit and add a 50VA 2X15V TX to it. BUT if you want to change the existing TX with bigger capacity ones then see my post in #19290 (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ntz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1929.html#post3469023) where I have shown how to fit 3 TXs to the CD63. It is not a difficult task. I did this to a number of my CD63s.
 
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Thank you higlander,no i don't have a KI is the simple 63.So i will try to add 1 transformer more.My question is the transformer you mentioned 15-0-15 volts or is completely indepedent with 15-0 and 15-0 volts?Also why are you using a t/x for the display?I know the display is noisy but what a t/x can do?
Now i am bypassing hdam's and i will report for results.
Oh,by the way,reay's list mention for 1mH/14 Ohm choke in certain positions.but i don't have those,...i have 20 pieces of epcos 1mH/3.8 Ohm with q=60 Fq=252khz Ir=200ma freq/min/1.2Mhz.Are they good to use those or i will need some feritte beds too?
Thank you.
 
Thank you higlander,no i don't have a KI is the simple 63.So i will try to add 1 transformer more.My question is the transformer you mentioned 15-0-15 volts or is completely indepedent with 15-0 and 15-0 volts?Also why are you using a t/x for the display?I know the display is noisy but what a t/x can do?
Now i am bypassing hdam's and i will report for results.
Oh,by the way,reay's list mention for 1mH/14 Ohm choke in certain positions.but i don't have those,...i have 20 pieces of epcos 1mH/3.8 Ohm with q=60 Fq=252khz Ir=200ma freq/min/1.2Mhz.Are they good to use those or i will need some feritte beds too?
Thank you.
Either 15-0-15 volts or a TX with two secondaries 15-0 and 15-0 volt will do. For the later you just joined two wires from each secondaries to make a neutral connection ( 0 ) but ensure the phase is correct.

If you can put two TXs in and use the existing TX for the display that will be fine, but there is a chance you might not have sufficient space to accommodate the 2 additional TXs which are big. In my case I need to remove the existing TX completely to provide sufficient space so a replacement TX for the display is used.

In all of my mods I did not use chokes.

One thing about the TX of the basic CD63 which has very small capacity when compare with SE or KI, so if you want to ensure sufficient current to support the opamps it is better to change this part of the TX with bigger capacity.
 
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higlander,thank you for the advise for t/x.
I did bypass hdam's along with capacitor value increasing in power supply:
c803/804 3300uf 35v bc,
c805/c806 1000uf 50v nippon kmg,
c813 4700uf 16v bc,
c814 3300uf 25v ero,
c815 3900uf 10v panasonic fm,all capacitors bypassed with 47nf 50v multilayer ceramic caps.
All these i have in hand and ready to my house so i haven't follow exactly what other people suggest so.
Results,because everything is done at same time,when first note strike.....a complete dissapoiment.Mids came back as they should the lost sweetness also with huge bass....BUT, where are the highs and the micro details??I was ready to kick it out of the window but i said give it a piece of chance.And i did.Agter about 1 our things came much more better,highs deside to apear and micro details also...not as many as i was expect it but i think i will give it a bit more time.1 thing that made me big impression is or maby is just me,timing it feels that is slower and losing the tempo but probably is the bigger capacity of the capacitor increase..kind off make it slower or is just my opinion??
Will see!!!
Thank you for the tips.
 
I don't think the problem is from the change of caps on the power supply. It seems to me there are some wrong connections in the analogy circuit or incorrect caps are used. I normally modded my CD63 bit by bit and checked the performance stage by stage. I did not have any problem with 8 numbers of my modding projects. They all fired up without problem at all.
 
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I've experimented with bypassing the PSU caps in my CD63 with film and ceramic a number of times, and the audible results have always been extremely disappointing. I've only ever stuck with a PSU bypass cap once after listening. That was with BG FKs in my amplifier using 1% of the same series of cap closer to the load. I don't think I've observed larger smoothing caps 'slowing' the sound - otherwise my player would sound like grass growing with 90,000uF on my DAC alone :)
 
I didn't say that is something wrong with the function of the player.It did start as it should with no funny noises or anything else.The sound of it is kind of odd.
higlander,please define 'incorrect' caps.All of them are new fresh and 105 celcius.For the multilayer bypassed ones,i have no idea nor an opinion.