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#91 | |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Ray. |
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#92 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: diepe zuiden
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Cant remember, but if you look at the pic and the distances between the legs of the dac, you should be able to determine the size. Did not do that much on the decoupling of the decoder/cpu etc. Just replaced the elco's with FC's and some smd caps iirc and swapped the ps diodes. Also those series restistors in the powerlines are replaced by inductors. We should bring the the players to diy2006, can do a shoot-out opamps are 6172
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GuidoB |
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#93 |
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diyAudio Member
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Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#94 | |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Ray. |
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#95 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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mmmmm food for thought.
I hope my seperate 5V and 12V psu pcb matches up to those babies once its done (next week)
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#96 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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The Tent labs XO oscillator module looks like the right option for me because it is the simplest. Do I just replace the crystal with the piece or is there more I have to do? Would this be a simple job to do to upgrade most cd players? Would it work on a DVD player (ie. pioneer dv-578a)?
If putting the tent labs xo is as easy as it sounds I am going to do that, pull the DC blocking caps and upgrade the opamps. I havn't opened my player, are the opamps SMD? Is it just an R and R or is there more to putting them in?
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http://www.caraudioconnoisseur.com/ |
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#97 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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What you are saying is somewhat of an open book!!
BUT the Tent labs XO oscillator module is a complete clock so you need to remove the two ceramic caps that are attached to the crystal and the 1 meg ohm res that decouples them. I assume the Tents lab instructions tell you to do this!!! Yes remove the 4 DC blocking caps and bridge out Yes the op amp are a major uprade in most cd/dvd players so do it.....(you need to let us know what is inside your dvd first though for proper advise on any thing other than cd 63/67 etc and open a different thred) ![]() sorry if I dont sound helpful but im ****ed on good red wine and port lol |
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#98 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Rather then building or buying a whole clock unit I can buy the € 29 oscilator and just plug it in place of the crystal?
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http://www.caraudioconnoisseur.com/ |
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#99 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: diepe zuiden
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Browsing through the digital section (search) should give you plenty to read. Opamps are DIP package ( and they are dual opamps) replacement is rather simple, but if you put in a fast opamp (like that 6172), the decoupling needs to be improved. Otherwise it might behave badly
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GuidoB |
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#100 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bern / Switzerland
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My CD63 is now strictly modded by the Gerald Gessner style. This includes improving the power supplies for the DAC chip, changing ground layout and completely redesign of the output stage (just one OPA(2)134, passive filtering, no output caps).
One very interesting detail, I was not aware before: I inserted a Kwak Clock with the original quartz. But the original Quartz is not precisely enough! It is a 16.935Mhz and not 16.9344! I does absolutely make no sense, to insert the original quartz into a Kwak, for this player! Another very important hint you can find here: http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html Franz P.S. Interesting detail: C522 and C523 are obsolete in any case, they don't exist in any service manual and should not be there! |
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