Contradiction????
If the 830 is as bad as a 600 series player - why do you recommend it over a 604?
Also - all 600 series players are not the same. Throughout this series you can find single sided pcb, double sided pcb, groundplane pcb, SAA7210, SAA7310, Mitsubishi decoder/filter, SAA7220, SAA7321, TDA1541A, TDA1543..........
The only thing that is common is the internal design of the case.
Bernhard said:
Bernhard said:
If the 830 is as bad as a 600 series player - why do you recommend it over a 604?
Also - all 600 series players are not the same. Throughout this series you can find single sided pcb, double sided pcb, groundplane pcb, SAA7210, SAA7310, Mitsubishi decoder/filter, SAA7220, SAA7321, TDA1541A, TDA1543..........
The only thing that is common is the internal design of the case.
I have modded a few Philips 600 series and Marantz CD40/50/60. There are a lot of similarities. CD40/50/620 all share the same motherboard, only op amps and output caps are different depending on "price level" player was sold at. The CD50 had an additional variable volume output board I think.
My standard basic mods for these players has always been:
Change op amps, I like OPA2604 and 2134. They sound good but I believe are less fussy about decoupling as ome of the "better" op amps others rave about.
Change the PSU diodes, there are probably 12 or so of them to something with soft recovery characteristics. I use BYT53 or 52 mostly.
Get some decent electrolytic caps of 100 MFD or so and replace the DC blocking caps and the decoupling caps around the op amp as well as the caps on the filter and DAC and on the main 5V supply.
Put a rubber grommet on the crystal can, or better yet, remove it, wrap it in lead tape (available from golf shops) and then fit a grommet over it or now i wrap it in amalgamating tape (rubber insulation tape that fuses together and becomes one solid lump). Then mount the crystal through some very thin short leads and stick it onto the pcb, lying down with blu tack. My theory is this will increase the crystals inertia and remove its mechanical coupling sending resonance into the pcb.
These tweaks are simple and will take an hour or two to complete. The player will be far better after it.
You can also fill the honeycomb of the disc clamp with blue tack.
Build a separate PSU for the OP amps (there is plenty space on the left hand side inside this player and you only need to remove the low ohm value saferty resistors to gain access and isolate the PSU pins of the op amps...
Regards
Guillaume
My standard basic mods for these players has always been:
Change op amps, I like OPA2604 and 2134. They sound good but I believe are less fussy about decoupling as ome of the "better" op amps others rave about.
Change the PSU diodes, there are probably 12 or so of them to something with soft recovery characteristics. I use BYT53 or 52 mostly.
Get some decent electrolytic caps of 100 MFD or so and replace the DC blocking caps and the decoupling caps around the op amp as well as the caps on the filter and DAC and on the main 5V supply.
Put a rubber grommet on the crystal can, or better yet, remove it, wrap it in lead tape (available from golf shops) and then fit a grommet over it or now i wrap it in amalgamating tape (rubber insulation tape that fuses together and becomes one solid lump). Then mount the crystal through some very thin short leads and stick it onto the pcb, lying down with blu tack. My theory is this will increase the crystals inertia and remove its mechanical coupling sending resonance into the pcb.
These tweaks are simple and will take an hour or two to complete. The player will be far better after it.
You can also fill the honeycomb of the disc clamp with blue tack.
Build a separate PSU for the OP amps (there is plenty space on the left hand side inside this player and you only need to remove the low ohm value saferty resistors to gain access and isolate the PSU pins of the op amps...
Regards
Guillaume
Re: Re: Contradiction????
To me it seems you don't like Philips at all if you trash 3 of them weekly as you wrote and often write negatively about them. When they are so bad why don't you do something valuable with your time and start playing around with others brands that may suit your taste ?!?!
I want to add that 800 series may look better technically but this does not say they sound better. 600 series only share the case, insides are different so please do not think they're all the same in quality if you only know a few types of the series.
Bernhard said:
800 series is better than 600/610/614 etc..
650/670 is good, I forgot. Maybe I don`t like CDM4.
To me it seems you don't like Philips at all if you trash 3 of them weekly as you wrote and often write negatively about them. When they are so bad why don't you do something valuable with your time and start playing around with others brands that may suit your taste ?!?!
I want to add that 800 series may look better technically but this does not say they sound better. 600 series only share the case, insides are different so please do not think they're all the same in quality if you only know a few types of the series.
Re: Re: Re: Contradiction????
I like Philips very much
and have a stock of certain Philips players and transports.
At the moment I play around with Denon DCD3300, very deep bass and my favorite DAC PCM56.
Believe me I know all of the 600 series and prefer the older ones with CDM2 and TDA1541 non A.
Just personal taste.
jean-paul said:
I like Philips very much
and have a stock of certain Philips players and transports.At the moment I play around with Denon DCD3300, very deep bass and my favorite DAC PCM56.
Believe me I know all of the 600 series and prefer the older ones with CDM2 and TDA1541 non A.
Just personal taste.
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