Project - Marantz CD5400 modding (pics)

iamwhoiam · 23rd February 2005, 09:34 PM

I bought this CD Player in January for £85 as ex-display stock from my local RicherSounds. Quite a good deal I thought. Marantz have an OSE version of this player (Special Edition) for £200 which is basically this CD player kitted out in boutique components.

Well, I finally got around to modifying this little beast with my own collection. Hardest component to source? The service manual! ... but so glad I did, contains the schematics and component layouts and even chip datasheets - very useful.

Before Modifications- this is how the CD player comes stock.

(Click images for larger image)

Large Layout.

Component Side - Rear.

Component Side - Side view.

Component Side - Top Layout.

...As you can see, pretty much littered with generic capacitors.

After Modifications-

First thing I did was replace the smoothing capacitors from the power supply transformers. There are 3 in total; one for +12V, one for -12V required by the final low pass filter stage and one for the +8v/+5V/+3.3V required by the digital sections.
Original components = Generic 3300uF/25V types
Replacements = Panasonic FC 3300uF/35V.
Originally I wanted to fit 2x1800uF/35vs for each capacitor, but really couldn't find the space for them.

Second set of capacitors are bypass capacitors after the +12v/-12v regulators.
Original components = Generic 100uF/16V types
Replacements = ELNA Starget 2200uF/16V
These can't fit vertically without having leads extending very high off the board, so I just mounted them sideways. An 2200uF Starget was also placed before the +5v regulator.

Third set of capacitors replaced were the bypass capacitors for the digital power lines, +vcc, +3.3v etc. The dac also has a separate regulator for it's own +5v supply and these were also bypassed.
Original Components = Generic, between 47uF-100uF/16v
Replacements = Sanyo OSCONS between 100uF-330uF/10v

Fourth Set of capacitors replaced were the coupling capacitors, between the DAC and low pass filter op amps and also after the op amps.
Original Components = Generic, 10uF/16v
Replacements = ELNA Starget 10uF/25v
Will use some audio-grade polypropylene foil types (8uF) once they arrive tomorrow for the opamp output stage. Will keep the stargets in the dac output stage. The polypropylenes cost £5.00 each, so replacing 6 would be way to overkill/expensive. (If anyone has any 10uF N series caps for sale, give us a pm!!)

Fifth Set of capacitors replaced are the bypass caps for the low pass filter stage opamps.
Original Components = Generic 47uF/16V
Replacements = Panasonic FC 100uF/16V

DAC (CS4392) capacitors. I next worked on the capactors surrounding the DAC. There were two capacitors that Marantz use for the CMOUT and Filter stage with wrong values according to the chip's datasheet - in fact, they appear to be the wrong way round, 1uF and 10uF as opposed to 10uF and 1uF respectively. Replaced these with OSCONS, and also the bypass caps for the DAC's two power supply lines were replaced with 100uF OSCONS. A 10uF Tantalum was soldered as close as possible to the chip's +VA line on the underside acting as a bypass cap. The lead length on the cap is about 2mm!

Other capacitors replaced - Power supplies leading the transport were beefed up and replaced with Panasonic FC 330uF/100uF. Power supply lines for the hex invertors were replaced with OSCONS. Power supply supply lines for the DSP were replaced with FCs.

Two 0.47uF polypropylene foil caps (500VAC rating) were connected across the live and neutral lines of the mains supply.

0.022uF Wima MKS4 capacitors were soldered on the underside of the board in parallel with every electrolytic capacitor acting as power supply bypass.

Power supply bridge recitifier diodes were replaced with ultra fast types and paralleled with 100pF Wima FKP polypropylene caps. Original Diodes = 1N4002, replacements = UF4002

Biggest change was replacing the standard NJM2086 opamp with AD8620. The circuit has two NJM2086 dual opamp chips acting as a low pass filter after the DAC stage, so it requires two AD8620s. The supply is +12v/-12v which is just under the AD8620's max voltage of +13v/-13v.

Non electronical mods include lining the entire enclosure in Akasa Pax-Mate acoustic dampening material to reduce mechnical noise and also hopefully to stabilise the transport.

How does it all sound? The player sounds a lot more clear than before, though only subtly. There is more clarity on the high ends - and bass has more punch. Also there's less background "white noise". All these changes are very very very subtle though. Mechanical noise of the actualy transport has been reduced considerably. The sound proofing used here is the stuff designed to sound proof music production computers, so it's pretty good stuff and cheap (£20 for a pack with enough material for 2 cdplayers!).

Note: This is an ongoing mod, so I doubt the mods mentioned here are the final mods that are to occur in this fantastically cheap CDPlayer... So stay tuned

jleaman · 23rd February 2005, 09:37 PM

Look's Good i should do this now : O )

i2k92 · 5th March 2005, 08:02 PM

Nice project report. I'm about to do some mod on my CD5400, but it will be concentrated first to the audio PS section and output stage. Some BGs and Elna Silmics are ready to be deployed....
I have a question : how to remove those glue / wax like substances under the 3 power supply big caps (C911, C913, C915) ?

iamwhoiam · 6th March 2005, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by i2k92
I have a question : how to remove those glue / wax like substances under the 3 power supply big caps (C911, C913, C915) ?

Basically just get a knife and scratch it, and then use some long nose pliers to take off the rest. The stuff is very solid as you might see, but it's not too difficult. Also you can desolder the capacitors with a desolder pump to completely remove the solder, and then pull out the capacitor, taking the glue with it.

iamwhoiam · 6th March 2005, 10:36 AM

Latest update:

Finally my output capacitors arrived..

A Polypropylene foil 8uF "Audio Grade" by LCR to replace the Elna Starget 10uF I originally had in there. Thing's huge and had to mount off board.

Heph · 7th March 2005, 02:04 PM

Iamwhoiam,

I am curently looking into buying a CD5400 with the will to mod it within shortly.

So the service manual would definetly be usefull. Is there any way i could have a copy of it, please

Thanks.

aliens exist · 7th March 2005, 06:36 PM

iamwhoiam,

have you got the schematic of the player ?
Why don't you have remove the muting transistors ?

Thanks.

iamwhoiam · 8th March 2005, 03:48 PM

http://www.sivolobov.ru/audio/scheme...ntz/cd5400.rar

-45mb PDF service manual

Bernhard · 8th March 2005, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by iamwhoiam
Latest update:

Finally my output capacitors arrived..

A Polypropylene foil 8uF "Audio Grade" by LCR to replace the Elna Starget 10uF I originally had in there. Thing's huge and had to mount off board.

Those big fat caps could pick up noise from the nearby transformer

Heph · 8th March 2005, 08:26 PM

Thanks Iamwhoiam, it's highly appreciated...

A few questions:

Have you disconected the headphone amp? Most tweaker do that on their philips 723 though i don't know what you can expect...

What about changing the AOPs. They are CMS ones so it seems to be a bit tricky but might be interesting. A found some AD825 AOPs CMS size...

I'll probably buy mine pretty soon and start tweaking it so I'll take an active role to this thread.

23rd February 2005, 09:34 PM	#1
iamwhoiam diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hull, England	Project - Marantz CD5400 modding (pics) I bought this CD Player in January for £85 as ex-display stock from my local RicherSounds. Quite a good deal I thought. Marantz have an OSE version of this player (Special Edition) for £200 which is basically this CD player kitted out in boutique components. Well, I finally got around to modifying this little beast with my own collection. Hardest component to source? The service manual! ... but so glad I did, contains the schematics and component layouts and even chip datasheets - very useful. Before Modifications- this is how the CD player comes stock. (Click images for larger image) Large Layout. Component Side - Rear. Component Side - Side view. Component Side - Top Layout. ...As you can see, pretty much littered with generic capacitors. After Modifications- First thing I did was replace the smoothing capacitors from the power supply transformers. There are 3 in total; one for +12V, one for -12V required by the final low pass filter stage and one for the +8v/+5V/+3.3V required by the digital sections. Original components = Generic 3300uF/25V types Replacements = Panasonic FC 3300uF/35V. Originally I wanted to fit 2x1800uF/35vs for each capacitor, but really couldn't find the space for them. Second set of capacitors are bypass capacitors after the +12v/-12v regulators. Original components = Generic 100uF/16V types Replacements = ELNA Starget 2200uF/16V These can't fit vertically without having leads extending very high off the board, so I just mounted them sideways. An 2200uF Starget was also placed before the +5v regulator. Third set of capacitors replaced were the bypass capacitors for the digital power lines, +vcc, +3.3v etc. The dac also has a separate regulator for it's own +5v supply and these were also bypassed. Original Components = Generic, between 47uF-100uF/16v Replacements = Sanyo OSCONS between 100uF-330uF/10v Fourth Set of capacitors replaced were the coupling capacitors, between the DAC and low pass filter op amps and also after the op amps. Original Components = Generic, 10uF/16v Replacements = ELNA Starget 10uF/25v Will use some audio-grade polypropylene foil types (8uF) once they arrive tomorrow for the opamp output stage. Will keep the stargets in the dac output stage. The polypropylenes cost £5.00 each, so replacing 6 would be way to overkill/expensive. (If anyone has any 10uF N series caps for sale, give us a pm!!) Fifth Set of capacitors replaced are the bypass caps for the low pass filter stage opamps. Original Components = Generic 47uF/16V Replacements = Panasonic FC 100uF/16V DAC (CS4392) capacitors. I next worked on the capactors surrounding the DAC. There were two capacitors that Marantz use for the CMOUT and Filter stage with wrong values according to the chip's datasheet - in fact, they appear to be the wrong way round, 1uF and 10uF as opposed to 10uF and 1uF respectively. Replaced these with OSCONS, and also the bypass caps for the DAC's two power supply lines were replaced with 100uF OSCONS. A 10uF Tantalum was soldered as close as possible to the chip's +VA line on the underside acting as a bypass cap. The lead length on the cap is about 2mm! Other capacitors replaced - Power supplies leading the transport were beefed up and replaced with Panasonic FC 330uF/100uF. Power supply lines for the hex invertors were replaced with OSCONS. Power supply supply lines for the DSP were replaced with FCs. Two 0.47uF polypropylene foil caps (500VAC rating) were connected across the live and neutral lines of the mains supply. 0.022uF Wima MKS4 capacitors were soldered on the underside of the board in parallel with every electrolytic capacitor acting as power supply bypass. Power supply bridge recitifier diodes were replaced with ultra fast types and paralleled with 100pF Wima FKP polypropylene caps. Original Diodes = 1N4002, replacements = UF4002 Biggest change was replacing the standard NJM2086 opamp with AD8620. The circuit has two NJM2086 dual opamp chips acting as a low pass filter after the DAC stage, so it requires two AD8620s. The supply is +12v/-12v which is just under the AD8620's max voltage of +13v/-13v. Non electronical mods include lining the entire enclosure in Akasa Pax-Mate acoustic dampening material to reduce mechnical noise and also hopefully to stabilise the transport. How does it all sound? The player sounds a lot more clear than before, though only subtly. There is more clarity on the high ends - and bass has more punch. Also there's less background "white noise". All these changes are very very very subtle though. Mechanical noise of the actualy transport has been reduced considerably. The sound proofing used here is the stuff designed to sound proof music production computers, so it's pretty good stuff and cheap (£20 for a pack with enough material for 2 cdplayers!). Note: This is an ongoing mod, so I doubt the mods mentioned here are the final mods that are to occur in this fantastically cheap CDPlayer... So stay tuned

23rd February 2005, 09:37 PM	#2
jleaman diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Nanaimo	Look's Good i should do this now : O ) __________________ Routinely DIYers opt to make themselves a “passive preamp” - just an input selector and a volume control. Nelson Pass 2008

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5th March 2005, 08:02 PM	#3
i2k92 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Pau, France	Nice project report. I'm about to do some mod on my CD5400, but it will be concentrated first to the audio PS section and output stage. Some BGs and Elna Silmics are ready to be deployed.... I have a question : how to remove those glue / wax like substances under the 3 power supply big caps (C911, C913, C915) ?

6th March 2005, 10:36 AM	#5
iamwhoiam diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hull, England	Latest update: Finally my output capacitors arrived.. A Polypropylene foil 8uF "Audio Grade" by LCR to replace the Elna Starget 10uF I originally had in there. Thing's huge and had to mount off board.

7th March 2005, 02:04 PM	#6
Heph diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mulhouse	Iamwhoiam, I am curently looking into buying a CD5400 with the will to mod it within shortly. So the service manual would definetly be usefull. Is there any way i could have a copy of it, please Thanks.

7th March 2005, 06:36 PM	#7
aliens exist diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Near Lyon	iamwhoiam, have you got the schematic of the player ? Why don't you have remove the muting transistors ? Thanks.

8th March 2005, 03:48 PM	#8
iamwhoiam diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hull, England	http://www.sivolobov.ru/audio/scheme...ntz/cd5400.rar -45mb PDF service manual

8th March 2005, 08:26 PM	#10
Heph diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Mulhouse	Thanks Iamwhoiam, it's highly appreciated... A few questions: Have you disconected the headphone amp? Most tweaker do that on their philips 723 though i don't know what you can expect... What about changing the AOPs. They are CMS ones so it seems to be a bit tricky but might be interesting. A found some AD825 AOPs CMS size... I'll probably buy mine pretty soon and start tweaking it so I'll take an active role to this thread.

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