Project - Marantz CD5400 modding (pics)

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I wouldn't abuse the samples programme like that though.

You can get it at RS Components:

RS Stock No. 497-0975
Part No. AD8620ARZ


The smoothing capacitor swap didn't do much difference to the sound in my opinion. But I had some spare 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC low impedance types so why not? :D
 
I received my ad8066 and ad8620....I need to practice the SMD soldering first with an unused old Sound Blaster AWE card.
At last, my 5400 comes alive !!! I think that It already break in after I run it nonstop for several days. The sound was great, it can produce better bass and clarity now. Those BGs and Silmics upgrade really work.
I tested it with Diana Krall's "Girl in another room", the acoustic bass became so powerful and the cymbals are smoooooth.....I can almost hear the sound of the drumstick....
Next plan: add some bypass MKP on the electorytic caps on the output stage, replace the caps of the digital section PS, replace the opamps and perhaps replace the coupling caps with good film caps if I can get some room for them.
Next target : my Cambridge Azur 640A.....
 
iamwhoiam said:
The smoothing capacitor swap didn't do much difference to the sound in my opinion. But I had some spare 3300uF/35V Panasonic FC low impedance types so why not? :D

Sorry, what I really mean is those huge yellow coupling cap. If they're really good, I plan to replace mine with some Audyn MKP 10 uF.
Anyway, I'm agree that PSU cap mod didn't bring a significant improvement...
 
i2k92 said:
I received my ad8066 and ad8620....I need to practice the SMD soldering first with an unused old Sound Blaster AWE card.
At last, my 5400 comes alive !!! I think that It already break in after I run it nonstop for several days. The sound was great, it can produce better bass and clarity now. Those BGs and Silmics upgrade really work.
I tested it with Diana Krall's "Girl in another room", the acoustic bass became so powerful and the cymbals are smoooooth.....I can almost hear the sound of the drumstick....
Next plan: add some bypass MKP on the electorytic caps on the output stage, replace the caps of the digital section PS, replace the opamps and perhaps replace the coupling caps with good film caps if I can get some room for them.
Next target : my Cambridge Azur 640A.....

i2k92

May I know what caps and what values did you use as a bypass for the V+ and V- of the AD8066ARZ ??

Cheers,
jomar
 
Sounds good.

So, what did you do now? Cut the clocks near the two chips and solderd the clock output directly to the pins? So you used the 16.xx Mhz clock? Where did you get the supply voltage from?

Oh well, I guess, I'll wait for the pix :D

I also wanted to use the XO with a slightly modified version, using a 2.2 mH inductor in series and a 2200uF/0.1 uF in paralell with the 7808 as an extra filter.

I guess, I'll order the stuff tomorro if we have do new order at work, together with the opamps and some new caps and stuff...

I'm really excited!

Edit: what the hell happend here :bawling: A whole bunch of posts has suddenly gone...!

Edit2: Ah, some split the threads.
 
When I was checking the layout of the lowpass filter I dicovered something strange.

Resistor R201 (R301) is connected to R202 (R302)with capacitor C211 (311). According to the application note from Cirrus this capacitor should be connected to "earth".

http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/appNote/AN048Rev2.pdf

This application note shows the filter suitable for the CS4392.

Has anyone noticed this??
 
Max the Great said:
Anyone else?

I might be on to something here maybee. I shorted all the six caps in the signal way, to check the sound without the caps. Well it improved, but guess what: I measured about 250 mV of DC on the output :eek: . I'm going to check where this comes from next week. It could be the DAC, or the filter/buffer... If it's the buffer, that would indicate that there is something wrong with the design I guess, I can't imagine that those 250mV is intended. I changed the opamps to AD8620's though, but that should not matter I guess...
 
Well, it turns out the DC comes from the DAC caps. If you leave them in, and short the output cap, you get no DC at all on the output!

So iamwhoiam, those huge LCR caps are not needed at all! Also, you gain more if you replace the DAC caps, as I did:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

(never mind the cam)

I Replace all four 10uF elcos with 5.6uF 400V 5% Audyn MKP-QS caps, and shorted the output cap.
 
I'd like to have minimal touch on my CD5001.

A). What is the simplest but most audibly effective in term of sound improvement?

B) Will only change those 6 audio coupling cap (C201,C202, C301, C302, C210, C310) help? Thanks.

C). Will the electrolyte Blackgate N series (~ US$6 each) be worthing?

Thanks.
 
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