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Old 21st December 2011, 08:30 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josha View Post
Hi All, I got the service manual for mine here

It's a multipart download (free) so you need both parts. If you look closely you'll see Multipart: 0 1, just click on both to download both parts, unzipping one and opening the pdf will open both parts.

Cheers, Josh
Hi Josh, apologies, did download it, but on the Mac RAR is not standard so I downloaded several unzip apps from the app store. Didn't work, can't open.

Anyway I have been cleaning up the opamp section and the i/V section. I will use the boards for a DAC.

albert
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DAC TDA1541 S1; Kondo post-I/V filter; MC30-Super --> two stage RIAA; Pre: SP-6 clone ; F5 ; 300B PP ; ESL 57
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Old 21st December 2011, 08:47 AM   #22
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Any good ?

Andy

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File Type: jpg cd160-7png.jpg (78.8 KB, 142 views)
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File Type: zip cd160-1png-small.zip (868.2 KB, 39 views)
File Type: zip cd160-4png-small.zip (925.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: zip cd160-6pn-small.zip (755.4 KB, 33 views)
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Last edited by poynton; 21st December 2011 at 09:06 AM. Reason: attachments added
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Old 21st December 2011, 10:11 AM   #23
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Thanks andy,
of course hard to read but the overall schematics helps a lot - i have been following the traces to get acquainted with this board.

For the DAC, I have one board already up & running with a CS8412; using the SAA7220 (so no NOS!).
I will have a separate supply for the 7220 with 0,2 F. Stabilizes the +5 there a lot.
I took out connections to pins 4, 6, 9, 10, 14, 15 (other trace than to the 1541), 22, 23.
attached the MSK to pin 11.

First look at the scope: it is a bit noisy (-80 db 5k hardly visible). I know how to improve: use real caps on the 1541 decoupling. So I'll see.

albert
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Old 15th January 2013, 11:09 PM   #24
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Default cd160

just started ripping one of these to pieces and trying to learn about tuning cd players up but little to no knowledge of this stuff, have put an iec connector on back with inbuilt rfi filter and next i plan to fit toroidal transformers, would it be best to bypass the board dc parts and use an off board rectifier and also would anyone have a clearer manual and know best place to feed power supplies in to board for dac and motor etc as i can see on one drawing that there are a few power supply voltages,
also plan to do replace and add de coupling capacitors so any advice on what to use and where to use appreciated, even more so if you can say why in reply so a novice learns a bit hopefully.
thanks for any help
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Old 16th January 2013, 06:21 AM   #25
josha is offline josha  United Kingdom
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HI,

I've done pretty much everything you can do on this player eventually just using the DAC section on its own. It's the classis SAA7210-SAA7220-TDA1541 combination and as such, much of the information you can find on here for similar players can be applied to this.

I'll post some more information when I get a chance but for now please see the attached DAC section for details on how to power the DAC part, it's just snips 1, 2 and 6 you need for the DAC, where

1 is -15v Supply
2 is +5v Supply
6 is -5v Supply

Building a supply for the above is tricky though and there's a lot to be said for having a second round of regulators right next to the DAC - it's a big topic this! Have a look on here for 'Ultimate TDA1541' I think most of the info is in there.

As with other players of this type you get a big easy win by providing the SAA7220 with it's own +5v supply.

I haven't got the schematics on this PC but there's a big thread here that goes into great detail! It's a slightly different player but a lot of the same rules apply.

Hope this helps for now

Cheers, Josh.
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Old 18th January 2013, 07:26 PM   #26
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Default thanks

thanks for that josh and will look at getting a separate supply in as soon as possible and read all the other threads, suppose best thing is do one thing at a time and i am quite safe on high power electrics and panel wiring just never messed around with digital stuff but its fun learning
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Old 19th January 2013, 07:34 AM   #27
josha is offline josha  United Kingdom
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Hi

I think the quickest 'big win' mod for this player is providing the 7220 with it's own +5v supply - and it's dead easy to do.

I've attached another pic - you can easily lift 3326 where indicated (you can see this also supplies the +5v for the DAC, just above the lift). By doing this your providing a clean supply for the 7220 and a much 'cleaner' supply for the DAC.

I just built a very basic +5v supply using an lm317 as per the lm317 datasheet, nothing special at all, I think I used a 9v torroid, followed by a recitifer and a heatsinked lm317 (it does get hot!), if you drop the voltage much more than that then you could add a pre-reg and spread the load!

As far as grounding - I think there is a nicely placed solder pad right underneath the 7220 - just ground to that or to one of the many top-side solder bridges.

Enjoy!
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Old 11th February 2013, 11:27 PM   #28
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Default mods well start of them

just replaced decoupling caps around the dac to panasonic polyester types 0.1uf, installed a decent rf main filter, added a ground in from board to earth, changed mains cap on the on/off switch.
after a quick test run which i found had took some of the harshness away from the player i stripped board back out and grounded the top of the clock, even after such a small foray it sounded a different player, iv always used this to blast 70's rock and switch my marantz cd67se on for other music, also have a cd-101 in my setup as i enjoy my options with differing music.
ordered a few more parts for my next little play over the weeks and just taking small steps to start with and testing after every install, ordered some diodes and fm capacitors and will see where that takes it.
i did notice there are loads of de coupling caps on the back of board is it a good idea to change these to better ones ie de coupling on capacitors, diodes etc and i must find a manual somewhere.
thanks for inspiration josh and at least the player survived and will put some piccies on here when i get chance and also get my head around why im doing things which is the hardest thing with so many differing oppinions on whats best to do its hard for a novice to work it all out !
anthony
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Old 12th February 2013, 11:36 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josha View Post
... I think the quickest 'big win' mod for this player is providing the 7220 with it's own +5v supply - and it's dead easy to do....
The quickest 'big win' mod for this player is to replace the 7220P/A filter with the 7220P/B. Just my two eurocents
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Old 14th February 2013, 06:11 PM   #30
josha is offline josha  United Kingdom
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Good point elektroj - I'd forgotten all about swapping that! I think they can still be had on ebay for a few pounds

There are plenty of opinions about those decoupling caps under the TDA, but I never did get around to changing them. I figured what I gained in higher quality caps I might lose in having longer lead lengths, plus it's a tricky job changing them. For the trouble you may be better off building a dedicated board for the DAC part, it's a fairly simple layout (at least to match the existing one) and as long as you socket the TDA you can try a variety of decoupling caps & localised PSU combinations.

I found that the PSU's arguably had the biggest effect, followed closely by the output stage modifications (plenty of choice there as well!), then the clock upgrade but that's probably a result of the order in which I did them. I didn't have quite as much success with cap replacement with the exception of the large caps on the TDA PSU (close to the chip), I could be wrong but the quality of these seem to matter.

If you look after the 1541 and especially the transport itself then you can't go far wrong, trying out a variety of mods until you find a combination that works. Before applying any PSU mods I would socket the 1541 and the 7220 then check the voltages at the sockets before(!) putting the chips in (I killed my 7220 by applying too higher a voltage to it I think).

Have fun!
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