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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: China
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Both of mentioned CD players have the same problem,but all the functions are OK,please see the attached picture.
Can someone let me know how to settle?Is it caused by display panel?or caused by driver IC? thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: China
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jakarta - Indonesia
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Mine is Marantz CD95 and looks same, CD95 seems was made for Japan only because Power Supply Tansformer only 110 volt. The same problem also happened to mine. Three pcs regulators IC (3 pins) fitted in this player runs too hot because without heatsink. I have tried to put heatsink on those too hot regulators and the display problem cured. You may try to put your finger on those regulators so you know which regulators run too hot. This old CD Player fitted with 2 x TDA1541A Single Crown and 2 x SAA 7220. The CD drive is Phillips CDM1 die cast aluminium. OP Amps on analog circuit are JRC's types which should be replaced with newer OP Amp such as latest Burr Brown or Analog Device. I read several tweaks of NON OVERSAMPLING DAC regarding TDA1541A fitted CD players. Anybody can help me of how to modify this player to be NON OVERSAMPLING as they said it comes very close to SACD sound, which is very interesting to me with this very old fine CD Player.
Wempie |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: China
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But I don't think the 3 pins regulator will effecte the display,both CD94 and CD95 have enough heat sink for 3 pcs regulators,and they are not too hot,so I think the display problem is not caused by power supply.I have checked all power supply and they are normal(DC output:+11.71V,-11.8V,+4.84V,-5.95V,-22V,+13.2V,-13.2V,AC ouput for filament:3.6V).
If you want to hear NOS Dac's sound,I suggest you to DIY another external NOS Dac,do not modify the machine. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jakarta - Indonesia
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Hi,
Please also check a long big IC behind the display panel, it may be too hot and need a cooler. Any electrolitic close to this IC may need to be replaced. It also happened to my previous Marantz CD74. Thanks to your advice - I will not modify my machine. My CD95 some of the regulators not the 2 pcs at power supply was not fitted with heat sink. The regulators maker ROhm. I also have an old Denon DCD3520. The display problem was due to overheat regulators, and it was cured by adding heatsink only. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: China
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I have also checked the long IC(model no.:LC6554D),but it isn't hot,only a little warm.anyway,thanks for your advice.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I can't say for sure if your symptom corresponds, but the only troubles I have ever had with this generation of Philips player displays have ALL been caused by dying capacitors, which are always either Panasonic/Matsushita(guaranteed to be dying if original) or Philips & other German lytics. So, any of these you find on the display, processor & supply boards should all be replaced, with Nichicons if you really want longevity, and chances are good your display problem will evaporate.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
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Hi guys,
I know this is a little late, but just saw the post. The display is constructed more or less like a vacuum-tube, you have filament, anode and so on. The two mostly known reasons for this is, a microscopic leakage meaning small amounts of air over the years gets inside the display. The other reason being that the display over the years simply burn out like an ordinary tube (no emission left on the catodes). There´s a catode for each dot, and therefore the difference in light on different caracters. Like even with matched tubes one will eventually burn out before the other. Hope this helps to understand you´r problems ![]() ![]()
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#10 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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looks similar to what happened on my marantz DV18. Although it stopped working completely and random elements of the display lit up. It turned out (I got the shop to fix it) to be dry joints on the digital control board. I now always turn it off (rather than letting it go into standby) when I've finished using it.
Tony. |
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