Determining hot/netural in ReVox B226

David@NY · 6th December 2004, 04:18 AM

After changing the DAC chip in my ReVox I'm going to change the AC hook up wire in the ReVox. After opening ReVox I found that the AC wires are connected to a voltage selector PCB. However I can't tell which wire is supposed to be neutral and which one suppose to be hot. Is there any way to determine that?

Below is a picture (voltage selector is on the opposite side of the PCB)

philbyx · 6th December 2004, 05:38 AM

The standard is :

Blue = neutral
brown, red or black=the hot

Philippe

David@NY · 6th December 2004, 02:38 PM

Hmm.. I may have wired it in reverse. Let me check. Thanks!

rayfutrell · 6th December 2004, 07:57 PM

You can download the service manual with schematics at http://www.schori.info/b200s/smdownload.htm . It's in German.

Regards,
Ray

David@NY · 6th December 2004, 08:26 PM

I looked at the manual but I can't seem to find the information on the PSU voltage selector PCB

Lourens · 6th December 2004, 10:19 PM

Looks exactly the same as the one in my Studer A727. See attached file.
BTW, I recently opened the thing to add an extra psu and guess what -- it was wired in reverse too, like your ReVox (made by Studer

) . Just a coincidence or a matter of choice?

Fin · 7th December 2004, 01:00 AM

I don't think that manufacturers really care about this. Many CDPs only have two wires in the power cord and a two pin plug. The polarity can be reversed each time you plug it in.

rayfutrell · 7th December 2004, 02:04 PM

In the service manual look on pages 5/3 and 5/4 for the voltage selector PCB wiring.
Regards,
Ray

David@NY · 7th December 2004, 02:55 PM

Lourens,
According to your picture I should connect hot to brown (br) and neutral to blue (bl). I think I got it reversed and will fix that.

All,
I find it hard to work with the PCB because the path is so fragile. My solder iron keeps on burning it and the PCB. Any recommendation on how to best handle this? Thanks.

rayfutrell · 7th December 2004, 06:01 PM

Buy a temperature controlled soldering iron. They aren't that expensive and are a big help in preventing PCB damage. Also buy a solder sucker, solder wick and a bottle of rosin (not acid) flux. Put a little flux on the joint before you apply the iron. When the solder melts hit it with the solder sucker. That should remove most of the solder. Clean up residual solder with the solder wick. When finished remove flux residue with alcohol saturated Q-tips. You can also buy flux remover in spray cans.
Regards,
Ray

7th December 2004, 01:00 AM	#7
Fin diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: -	Who cares? I don't think that manufacturers really care about this. Many CDPs only have two wires in the power cord and a two pin plug. The polarity can be reversed each time you plug it in. __________________ Regards Fin

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6th December 2004, 05:38 AM	#2
philbyx diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: near Paris	The standard is : Blue = neutral brown, red or black=the hot Philippe

6th December 2004, 02:38 PM	#3
David@NY diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: New York	Hmm.. I may have wired it in reverse. Let me check. Thanks!

6th December 2004, 07:57 PM	#4
rayfutrell diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: virginia	You can download the service manual with schematics at http://www.schori.info/b200s/smdownload.htm . It's in German. Regards, Ray

6th December 2004, 08:26 PM	#5
David@NY diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: New York	I looked at the manual but I can't seem to find the information on the PSU voltage selector PCB

7th December 2004, 02:04 PM	#8
rayfutrell diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: virginia	In the service manual look on pages 5/3 and 5/4 for the voltage selector PCB wiring. Regards, Ray

7th December 2004, 02:55 PM	#9
David@NY diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: New York	Lourens, According to your picture I should connect hot to brown (br) and neutral to blue (bl). I think I got it reversed and will fix that. All, I find it hard to work with the PCB because the path is so fragile. My solder iron keeps on burning it and the PCB. Any recommendation on how to best handle this? Thanks.

7th December 2004, 06:01 PM	#10
rayfutrell diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: virginia	Buy a temperature controlled soldering iron. They aren't that expensive and are a big help in preventing PCB damage. Also buy a solder sucker, solder wick and a bottle of rosin (not acid) flux. Put a little flux on the joint before you apply the iron. When the solder melts hit it with the solder sucker. That should remove most of the solder. Clean up residual solder with the solder wick. When finished remove flux residue with alcohol saturated Q-tips. You can also buy flux remover in spray cans. Regards, Ray

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