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Philips DVD 963 SA tweaking a lot...
Philips DVD 963 SA tweaking a lot...
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Old 3rd November 2004, 11:20 AM   #1
Tuur is offline Tuur  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: near Amsterdam
Wink Philips DVD 963 SA tweaking a lot...

I like to share my experiences of tweaking the DVD963.

First I exchanged the big 100uF cap in the power supply with a 220uF/450V ordinary one. Most other caps on the power board are replaced with Black Gates:

5 volt section
2250 1000uF/16V Standard
2255 2* 220uF/6,3V NX (as super e-cap)

12 volt section
2210 1000uF/16V S
2215 100uF/16V S

3,3 volt section
2230 1500uF/10V NX
2235 2* 220uF/6,3V NX (as super e-cap)

-12 volt section
2280 220uF/16V S
2285 100uF/16V S

-32 volt section
2240 47uF/50V S
2245 47uF/50V S

First it sounded a litle harsch, but after a few hours the sound became easy.

After that a replaced the capís from the upsampling AD1895 and the front-DAC AD1955 and the front-channel-buffer-amps AD8022 with Black Gates:

2205 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ
2206 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ
2213 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ

2311 2* 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ (as super e-cap)
2312 2* 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ (as super e-cap)
2314 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ
2317 10uF/16V S

2442 680uF/35V NX
2443 680uF/35V NX
2444 680uF/35V NX
2445 680uF/35V NX

3,3 volt D
2606 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ

2610 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ

3,3 volt DAC
2628 47uF/6,3V NXHiQ

I replaced the second stage AD8032 of the front-channel-buffer with a AD8066. At 2 mm from leg 4 and leg 8 of the AD8032 (AD8066) there is a tiny 100nF ceramic SMD cap. I placed a 100uF/16V NX in the +8V (leg 8) and the Ė8V (leg 4) From leg 8 to the most far away side of the nearby ceramic cap. Same for
leg 4. The 100nF capís are now bypassed by the 100uF ones.

I replaced the 100uF output capís with 10uF Audyn MKPís bypassed with 100nF Styrol capís. Because of there was no room for them at the original position I placed them at the edge of the board and I maked the connection with shielded audio cable.

A few ferriets at the wires from the power board to the electronic and some piecesof bitumen at the cover and a line filter maked the tweak complete.

The sound now is very clear. The digital sounding in the high frequenties is gone. The low frequenties sound very pin point. There is also a lot of air in the music. It is if the music flows around in my room.

Watch out! The power board is very easy to change. But for the other ones you need good desoldering equipment. There is also little space for the new capís, so you have to be creative to place them. For changing the AD8032 you need a steady hand.

Watch out with the 220 volts power board. At the big cap it will be 300 volts!!!
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Old 4th November 2004, 05:25 AM   #2
audio-kraut is offline audio-kraut  Canada
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: 12km off the alaska highway in northern BC
what do you mean by steady hands? I cant even see most of the stuff on the boards. I'd have to hire trained m osquitos do so the job
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Old 27th February 2006, 10:46 PM   #3
Menno Keizer is offline Menno Keizer  Europe
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: The Netherlands
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A major inprovement can be made by removing the mute transistors at the outputs and wire the traces directly.

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