I have a CD63SE player which I want to modify. I will be doing the reclocking as in the website http://www.acoustica.org.uk/. I wish to remove the muting transistors and replace them by a relay. I want to know if any members have done this and would like to know how to go about it. Alternatively, how much noise comes out of the player if I don't use relays?
For the opamps replacement which are the better substitutes? opa2134, opa2604 etc.
thanks,
Dinesh
For the opamps replacement which are the better substitutes? opa2134, opa2604 etc.
thanks,
Dinesh
no need for a relay, just rip'em out...done that with two CD63s, no problem...
I have used OPA2134 in my players, but also 2x OPA627 on a Brown Dog, curiously on one player the difference between OPA2134 and 2x OPA627 isn't noteworthy, while on the other it is like day and night...
cheers
t
btw. do a search here and you will find a lot about modding the CD63 and CD67
I have used OPA2134 in my players, but also 2x OPA627 on a Brown Dog, curiously on one player the difference between OPA2134 and 2x OPA627 isn't noteworthy, while on the other it is like day and night...
cheers
t
btw. do a search here and you will find a lot about modding the CD63 and CD67
Hi Mark25,
I have upgraded two Marantz 63 CD players. Fortunately, you do not need any relays installed, just remove muting transistors. I have also installed a clock in both and large number of Black Gate capacitors. All power supply rails "in-series" resistors (4.7 to 10 ohms, sometimes 22 ohms as well) have been replaced with ferrite beads - big improvement!. OPs are AD826 (very good to excellent), but you could try AD8066 which are outstanding (I use them as I to V converter in dual differential 1704 config in my Denon CD player - EXCELLENT. However, 8066 need attention - they can overheat even with + and - 12 volts rails, which is maximum for these. I have used thermal heatsink compound and little copper heatsinks - and they run perfectly okay. You also need adaptor boards for 8066. You could cut-out back panel and install an IEC power connector, which will allow you to use high quality power cable. The signal coupling capacitors are replaced with two AURI 4.7uF / 200V caps. The HDAM sections are NOT in use any more - the signal is coupled from the output pins of AD826 via AURI caps straight to the (high quality) RCA connectors. This signal DOES not travel via PCB tracks any more - things I learned from many years of valve gear modifications. The driving capability of AD826 is very good and they do not need additional HDAM buffering. I also use pure silver ribbons as conductor, but I get these from a friend of mine. Solid core copper cable is also very good. At the end I replaced the membrane ribbon cable which connects transport with main PCB and I used high quality silver wire and I soldered both ends. This mod was a bit Extreme, but the result was superb!
The external clock (I use XO2 and XO3) needs separate power supply! This is very important.
These machines were easily better than anything in 3000 to 4000 AUS dollars range on the market.
I also used copper shielding and vibrations deadening...
Good luck!
Extreme_Boky
I have upgraded two Marantz 63 CD players. Fortunately, you do not need any relays installed, just remove muting transistors. I have also installed a clock in both and large number of Black Gate capacitors. All power supply rails "in-series" resistors (4.7 to 10 ohms, sometimes 22 ohms as well) have been replaced with ferrite beads - big improvement!. OPs are AD826 (very good to excellent), but you could try AD8066 which are outstanding (I use them as I to V converter in dual differential 1704 config in my Denon CD player - EXCELLENT. However, 8066 need attention - they can overheat even with + and - 12 volts rails, which is maximum for these. I have used thermal heatsink compound and little copper heatsinks - and they run perfectly okay. You also need adaptor boards for 8066. You could cut-out back panel and install an IEC power connector, which will allow you to use high quality power cable. The signal coupling capacitors are replaced with two AURI 4.7uF / 200V caps. The HDAM sections are NOT in use any more - the signal is coupled from the output pins of AD826 via AURI caps straight to the (high quality) RCA connectors. This signal DOES not travel via PCB tracks any more - things I learned from many years of valve gear modifications. The driving capability of AD826 is very good and they do not need additional HDAM buffering. I also use pure silver ribbons as conductor, but I get these from a friend of mine. Solid core copper cable is also very good. At the end I replaced the membrane ribbon cable which connects transport with main PCB and I used high quality silver wire and I soldered both ends. This mod was a bit Extreme, but the result was superb!
The external clock (I use XO2 and XO3) needs separate power supply! This is very important.
These machines were easily better than anything in 3000 to 4000 AUS dollars range on the market.
I also used copper shielding and vibrations deadening...
Good luck!
Extreme_Boky
thanx for the interesting reply Extreme_Boky.
I removed the mute tr's from my KI sig, but put them back due to the horrible noises, thinking about it, maybe it was just on "skip", that the noise ocoured, maybe i'll investigate this again sometime soon.
i think i'll stick with the original power cord, i like the idea of no IEC connector!
What benefit does the AD826 bring over the jrc op-amps originally installed? I may go for this upgrade and i like the idea of wiring the o/p pins of the op-amp straight to the rca's, that's my kind of upgrade!
Cheers
I removed the mute tr's from my KI sig, but put them back due to the horrible noises, thinking about it, maybe it was just on "skip", that the noise ocoured, maybe i'll investigate this again sometime soon.
i think i'll stick with the original power cord, i like the idea of no IEC connector!
What benefit does the AD826 bring over the jrc op-amps originally installed? I may go for this upgrade and i like the idea of wiring the o/p pins of the op-amp straight to the rca's, that's my kind of upgrade!
Cheers
I have been following and performing most of the suggested mods; clock, caps, bypassing, removing mute x-sistors, etc, with great improvement in sound. Unit now has a soundstage instead of a flat 2D presentation. Attack on piano notes very good. Strings and violins almost sing. My problem is that the bass, while very extended, lacks definition or impact. What should I do?
Extreme_Boky said:
I have had this problem with other Analog Devices chips -- the response I got from their tech folks (which was very prompt) was "hmmmm, we'll have to look at that..." -- the chip in question should have been drawing 20ma, was instead drawing 80 ma at idle. There was no evidence of oscillation, btw. They stated that the chip shouldn't require a heat sink in the configuration I was using (and they sent out replacements.) You might want to examine the current being drawn.
btw, for copper shielding I use the 3M copper tapes.
Your clock implementation needs attention. The power supply should be of high quality. I use Black Gates FK types WITH ONLY ONE 0.1uF / 50V NX type as a local high frequency decoupler, but you have to experiment with its position along power supply rails run. I always remove the original capacitors that clock comes with (usually between 4700uF and 10000uF) - they are of bad quality. So, you need to experiment with position of 0.1uF / 50V NX Black Gate. Other good quality film capacitors could be used (Solen and WIMA), but 0.1uF / 50V NX is dirt-cheap. Also, the current run (dirty current) from bridge rectifier towards smoothing capacitors AND the current run from smoothing caps to clock PCB must be separate - not mixed.
In my opinion, main reservoir capacitors should be located ONLY at one point along power supply rails. Local decoupling should be done ONLY with small values - with excellent little 0.1uF / 50V NX.
So, experiment with power supply and you'll get what you're after.
Nick
getting back to the topic being discussed here, anyone know how this should work?
I read this,
http://diyparadise.com/cdptweak.htm
and if you look at the transistors, I would say that when the base of the muting transistors gets a signal it switches on and the emmiter and collector short.
Couldnt I use this transistor to turn on a relay thats connected to the +12V supply at one end, and between ground and the relay at the other. The relay contacts then short the signal output to ground?
Seems logical but I dont wanna blow up my player. Any comments?
Arthur
I read this,
http://diyparadise.com/cdptweak.htm
and if you look at the transistors, I would say that when the base of the muting transistors gets a signal it switches on and the emmiter and collector short.
Couldnt I use this transistor to turn on a relay thats connected to the +12V supply at one end, and between ground and the relay at the other. The relay contacts then short the signal output to ground?
Seems logical but I dont wanna blow up my player. Any comments?
Arthur
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