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#1 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Vancouver
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Front
Remote control receiver; buttons are made from brass tacs; the small faceplate is plexiglass painted black; neons are power lights, whereas the purple LED indicates lock. ![]() Rear Four inputs, two are the usual RCA, one BNC, and one balanced AES3 with impedance matching and voltage attenuation network; balanced and unbalanced outputs. ![]() Inside Round metal can houses standby/logic/motor supply; regulated DAC power supply and DAC itself in separate sub-enclosures, all star grounded; MOSFET H-bridge drives motor, which drives attenuator (inside DAC sub-enclosure); IR-sensors on toothed cardboard prevent motor stopping at in-between positions and microswitches prevent motor trying to push attenuator past limits; motor input is from either knob or remote control; knob doesn't rotate except a bit when the user tries to turn it, activating switches; volume indicator is the little arrow behind the knob, attached by a cylinder coaxial to the knob axis and hooked up to the motor by the rope, which is tentioned by the elastic; input/output selection is done by latching relays; all signal cables are 99.9% silver in teflon tubes; the DAC itself is JWB's CS8420/CS43122 dac rev. B design, except that an attenuator is placed directly at the DAC chip's voltage output, shunting between the balanced lines, and the analog section is replaced by a simple self-biasing JFET buffer (the DC offset adjustment trimmers are visible on the sub-enclosure).
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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This is a reaally incredible effort. Using relays would have been so much simpler. Did the step attenuator sound so much better than relays?
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#3 | ||
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
![]() Quote:
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: romania
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Hi ,i need service manual for CD5000
Could someone help me . i want to make some tweaks -better op -amp -new clock -new capacitors (ELNA audiophile grade) -2 toroid transformers -copper shielding -new power cord (some audioquest ,i think). Thx very much All the best |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Quote:
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#6 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Vancouver
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Aha, then you are but a
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Prune, Looks impressive, question, is that a stepper motor or did you use a (how shall I call it) continuous rotation type? I have been looking at using stepper motors with the same number of steps as the stepped attenuator, I guess that would also work. Haven't tried it though. Jan Didden
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/Another new issue: Linear Audio Volume 3! |
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#8 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Vancouver
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It is continuous; why else would have I used the IR sensor? Good luck finding cheap stepped motor that provides enough torque (mine was $5 with the gear box).
See the slots in the cardboard? They are aligned so that the sensors are blocked unless in an in-between position. When the user is holding the remote button down or triggering the knob, and lets go, if it is at an in-between position, logic keeps the motor going until the IR sensor is blocked again. This is helped even more by the flexible motor-to-attenuator connector (piece of flexible pipe), as that acts as a damper and allows the click-in-place action of the attenuator to center itself even if the motor is not exactly aligned. Also, microswitches are activated by a groove in the wheel, cutting out the logic signal to the driving H-bridge for a given direction if the attenuator is at the last position in that direction. |
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#9 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Vancouver
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I regret not having used a microcontroller. The discrete logic for the whole thing, from standby control, power on muting, remote control, relay control, CS8420-invalid-mode-bug-fixing-reset-circuit, was a pain in the @$$, with a dozen ICs and a bunch of transistors and sh!t.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hey Prune, I never saw these photos and now they are broken. Can you repost them?
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