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Old 6th February 2006, 02:31 PM   #31
tubee is offline tubee  Netherlands
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The pcb's of 300 has no screen, there is a small pcb on decoder pcb wich has an earth-screen with 4 Sony chips and some logic.

A separate clock will probably not bring a lot of improvement in cd300 imo, because the cristal has about 6 logic chips around it to re-distribute the clock signals. Have on other pc the service manual, will check this first.
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Old 6th February 2006, 02:39 PM   #32
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Originally posted by tubee
This guy doesn't want to hurt his hands on de headsink, made a bar around it!

Even Sony use to put a bar , in the fins of the heatsinks of the ES series of amps, to kill vibrations.

Obviously , I don't believe this make any difference...
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Old 6th February 2006, 05:24 PM   #33
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The cd300 has a chip besides SAA7030, "M4920A" and nothing to be found about it on www.
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Old 6th February 2006, 05:38 PM   #34
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Hi.

There was a recent post about these chips but I cannot find it!!

M4920A = Pre-production chip number!!

Andy
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Old 6th February 2006, 07:04 PM   #35
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Cannot find it either. Chip should have the same function as SAA7010 i presume.
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Old 7th February 2006, 04:29 PM   #36
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well I dsimanteledthe 104 a final time to just recheck my work (by eye). Took the top off and the bottom. Turned it over and just rechecked my work.

Put it all back together and powered it up. Lights come on but the ominous double 00, accompanied by two faint wirrs as it tries and fails to read the TOC. Have tried waiting for the warfm up period but this time nothing, same problem.

So :

1) I'll be replacing all the through rivet solder points

2) I'll disconnect and reconnect all cabls.

3) My cap replacement on the server board does not appear to have fixed the problem as I had previoulsy thought

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Old 11th February 2006, 02:09 PM   #37
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Hi there,

I was given a CD104 a while ago and it's been a love/hate relationship ever since. Initially it worked only after warming up then not at all,then spinning the cd rapidly as soon as turned on i.e no clock signal. I have just spent a couple of hours doing the recommended mods, and a couple of others and finally she works correctly! It is DEFINITELY worth replacing all of the solder through links on the decoder pcb. I desoldered first and then drilled through with a 2mm drill bit, then I used sections of solid wire from some old caps I don't need and soldered them through. I also replaced the two caps nearest the audio out solder points with 47uf 35v ones. I have also fitted good quality chassis phono connectors so that I can try different interconnects. I have also replaced all of the caps on the psu pcb. The end result is very pleasing! Very similar to my Cambridge Audio CD2 in fact. I love the warm lush sound with slightly round treble and lifelike mid range. They are really worth persevering with! They are far too good for the tip so if anyone is tempted to do that let me know and I'd be interested in the old player.

Good luck with yours.

Mat
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Old 13th February 2006, 07:35 PM   #38
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This site, sadly dead, appears to have a nice summary of the fixing through-the-board rivets or griplets issue.

http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
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Old 13th February 2006, 07:41 PM   #39
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Originally posted by jives11
This site, sadly dead, appears to have a nice summary of the fixing through-the-board rivets or griplets issue.

http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:...=firefox-a</a>

Probably died from the shock of seeing what price they charged for repairing the through-holes !!!!

Andy
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Old 15th February 2006, 05:52 AM   #40
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Originally posted by matski
Hi there,

It is DEFINITELY worth replacing all of the solder through links on the decoder pcb. I desoldered first and then drilled through with a 2mm drill bit, then I used sections of solid wire from some old caps I don't need and soldered them through.
Good luck with yours.

Mat
Thanks.

Q: I took a look at the servo board. In addition to 2 obvious solder hills covering griplets, I noticed that a couple of the axial caps and at least two wire links had large solder mounds at one end. Do these also cover griplets and should these also receive the treatment ?
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