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Old 6th March 2006, 10:47 AM   #121
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by MidiMaze

No oops in this modification. The old op-amp I/V stage doesn't sound as good as the transistor stage
The oops referred to the fact that I had posted a question in error. I did not see the link on the picture.

Andy
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Old 8th March 2006, 03:22 PM   #122
JeroenR is offline JeroenR  Netherlands
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Can I use below clock layout to clock the 7000? I already have the Tent XO 8.4672MHz module. The idea is to divide the clock by two, same mod as MidiMaze. Some of the C-values are what I have lying around. Most of the layout is directly from Guido's site.

Thanks,

Jeroen
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Old 8th March 2006, 07:30 PM   #123
JeroenR is offline JeroenR  Netherlands
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Hmm, values for two C's were wrong.
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Old 8th March 2006, 08:45 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeroenR
Hmm, values for two C's were wrong.
Thanks - what value for the beads ?
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Old 8th March 2006, 08:55 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally posted by jives11

Thanks MidiMaze
Nice site (and Pictures !) Wow you certainly managed to squeeze plenty into the chasis
I had to take out the orginal EMI filter to fit in the transformer for the XO and drill some holes to mount the new EMI filter and euro power connector at the back. The pcb's are mounted with some thick and stiff wires that i have solderd to the original pcb so that it will hang underneath. The pcb at the back is solderd to the cich chasis.
Jonathan menthioned via the mail that the original caps must be at least 20 years old by now and that it might be worth replacing them. So i'am planning to take a look at that when i have some spare time.
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Old 8th March 2006, 09:25 PM   #126
JeroenR is offline JeroenR  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by jives11


Thanks - what value for the beads ?

No idea. One of them came with the XO module, the other will be some generic one from a local electronic shop I'm afraid (perhaps combined with a little choke?).
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Old 19th March 2006, 05:22 PM   #127
JeroenR is offline JeroenR  Netherlands
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two problems solved....

1. player now starts directly after turning on:
I replaced all caps on PSU, servo, cdm and tray pcb's. I used Nichicon low impedance for all except servo, there I used cheaper generic ones. All values a bit higher as I did not have the exact values. When I turn on the player I can play a CD directly, before it had to "warm" up half an hour.

2. tray closes completely:
I took of the tray mechanism and disassembled the traymotor. The wheels were cleaned and sanded lightly, at a local shop I bought a new, bit tighter, rubber band so replacing the old one. The tray now closes perfectly, before I had to help it with the last bit of the entry....

About ESD, I had all boards in my hands including the CDM board that is connected to the laser when I replaced all caps. There was a warning in one of the other forums about these old chips being sensitive to ESD. One could end up with a "greyish" sound..... My player is still working so phew.... But what about this "greyish" sound?? How do I recognise this? And is this possible? I can understand a chip failing after being fried but working a bit less good not. Any ideas???

Thanks,

Jeroen
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Old 20th March 2006, 06:36 AM   #128
jives11 is offline jives11  Europe
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeroenR
two problems solved....


About ESD, I had all boards in my hands including the CDM board that is connected to the laser when I replaced all caps. There was a warning in one of the other forums about these old chips being sensitive to ESD. One could end up with a "greyish" sound..... My player is still working so phew.... But what about this "greyish" sound?? How do I recognise this? And is this possible? I can understand a chip failing after being fried but working a bit less good not. Any ideas???

Thanks,

Jeroen
Well done. I have exactly the tray closing problem you describe. Sometimes it has the energy but mostly not and needs a little nudge.

I read that too, and like you I also handeled the boards while replacing caps and griplets. I'm sceptical that it would affect the sound in the way described.

I think the two caps that decouple the +/-12 v supplies are quite crtical. They serve a number of supplies as well as the opamps. I have some stargels at present but have some cerafines to put in, which I think are better in this role
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Old 20th March 2006, 11:11 AM   #129
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeroenR
.....................About ESD, I had all boards in my hands including the CDM board that is connected to the laser when I replaced all caps. There was a warning in one of the other forums about these old chips being sensitive to ESD. One could end up with a "greyish" sound..... My player is still working so phew.... But what about this "greyish" sound?? How do I recognise this? And is this possible? I can understand a chip failing after being fried but working a bit less good not. Any ideas???..............


Touch wood, I have never fried a chip with ESD. [ 35+ years ]
But then I always touch the case to ensure I am at the same potential.

ESD will cause a chip to sound 'less good' if the discharge fries only part of the internal circuit eg if it is a symmetrical output op-amp and one half goes, it will still 'work' but obviously will not sound right.


Andy
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Old 2nd April 2006, 06:09 PM   #130
JeroenR is offline JeroenR  Netherlands
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I built a clock into the player, see photo. It has a dedicated powersupply. The previously posted layout was incorrect, I had pin 3 and 5 connected the wrong way around. Over the coming week I will listen to it a bit more but first impression: mwoh... not impressed so far. It might be it needs some time or a better I/V or make it NOS.
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