Your first unit has probably a leaking capacitor on the servo board, you can try swapping them you might end up with at least one working machine, still try the tilting method to see if it helps, also the tip of checking the clamp is a good one, also try swapping them
Yes... your spindle motor is on its way out... replace it, is quite easy...
Yes it was obvious which one it was. Relatively easy to remove one from original player. Just removed circuit board and two tiny screws on the other side. Had a bit of difficulty desoldering using braid, not quite sure what I'm doing. Tried putting the braid on the solder with heated soldering iron on top, but it took a while for solder underneath to melt, and sometimes it didn't want to stick to the braid, so took lots of attempts for the two motors. i'm a bit nervous of damaging the circuit board of the recipient player when I do the same.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Classic RAE0113, really good mechanism... dont be affraid in damaging something
Still if you don't have tools for desoldering you can improvise, in order to clean the "hole" so you can work freely you can use a small pipe (an empty pen works great) you got to heat the joint and when the solder is liquid blow hardly directly and it blows away leaving it clean... other methods include a syringe and a spring and some foil to avoid melting the syringe but the pen tip is simpler...
Still if you don't have tools for desoldering you can improvise, in order to clean the "hole" so you can work freely you can use a small pipe (an empty pen works great) you got to heat the joint and when the solder is liquid blow hardly directly and it blows away leaving it clean... other methods include a syringe and a spring and some foil to avoid melting the syringe but the pen tip is simpler...
Is the RAE113 mechanism the whole unit or just the laser part?
Not sure I like the idea of blowing molten solder all over the place and I don't have a syringe and spring.
I've seen videos of the braid just soaking up the solder, but mine doesn't seem to. Could that be because it's not impregnated with flux? There is a little tub of flux that came with the solder kit, so do I need to rub some on the braid before I attempt to press it on the solder and heat with soldering iron?
Not sure I like the idea of blowing molten solder all over the place and I don't have a syringe and spring.
I've seen videos of the braid just soaking up the solder, but mine doesn't seem to. Could that be because it's not impregnated with flux? There is a little tub of flux that came with the solder kit, so do I need to rub some on the braid before I attempt to press it on the solder and heat with soldering iron?
If you work a lot with soldering is one of the bust purchases you can make... if you are new to it, i suggest to practice on a donor PCB so you don't heat too much the traces while desoldering, don't be affraid of the pump touching the soldering iron tip... it wont melt
Lateral play in the bearings should be minimal. The only exception is if the spindle has a vibration damper (such as on Philips CDM12.4 mechs) that applies constant pressure to the spindle in one direction. Up and down movement is normal.
The platter height is a critical setting because it determine how far the lens travels to find focus. If it is a push on type then they normally 'go all the way' until the end stop. Some players have a grub screw to secure the platter and here the height must be accurately set with reference to the service manual.
The platter height is a critical setting because it determine how far the lens travels to find focus. If it is a push on type then they normally 'go all the way' until the end stop. Some players have a grub screw to secure the platter and here the height must be accurately set with reference to the service manual.
As mooly said, you might not feel the play on the bearings but if you spin the motor with you fingers you may hear some vibrations, as for the platter in this mechanism it goes quite deep, almost touching the chassis of the mechanism, check with a cd that is spins freely without touching anything, still... when ensambled you know if you pushed too much if the clamp touches the fixture, trial and error works fine
I presumed what people had said, by the fact that it's okay when tilted at an angle that it's worn bearings of the spindle and if so I may be able to feel some play. Or could the same "fix" happen if the motor itself was worn and can't quite go fast enough for track 1. Doesn't matter as replacing the motor anyway but would be quite satisfying feeling some play and then knowing for sure that was the problem.
There is no "stop" on the platter as the hole goes all the way through, so the bottom of it can touch the motor although it seems to spin okay like that.
There is no "stop" on the platter as the hole goes all the way through, so the bottom of it can touch the motor although it seems to spin okay like that.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Correct platter height is very important. I don't know what to suggest over that... if the player was otherwise OK then platter height can be gauged by a combination of trial and error and also looking at the focus error voltages (to see how high the lens is being driven).
Tilting the player (when I mentioned that) was more as a possible check on the lens suspension components rather than the spindle motor. All you can do is proceed and see what the outcome is. The platter certainly should not be touching the motor though. The service manual may possibly detail a procedure using a spacer.
Tilting the player (when I mentioned that) was more as a possible check on the lens suspension components rather than the spindle motor. All you can do is proceed and see what the outcome is. The platter certainly should not be touching the motor though. The service manual may possibly detail a procedure using a spacer.
Ah, yes I've just reread what you said before Mooly. It was PC91 who suggested it was the spindle motor after working at an angle. Seems strange that it also works with an additional CD on top if it is a failing motor as you would it expect for it to have to work harder with the extra weight, which it wouldn't be able to do if it was failing. I was convinced it was the motor after what some people have said but now I'm not sure, change the motor and can't get the platter height right and mess it up completely.
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