Mick,
Thanks for the info on the gain of the op-amp stage... I was not clear looking at the output stage schematic that it is a unity-gain stage.
Also thanks for the suggestion on the PS... I've gone through the entire thread a couple of times (my, this is a LONG thread!) and I'd seen that.
What I had in mind was a 2-stage regulated supply with LM317-based preregs and a simple opamp-driving a pass FET final stage. I lifted this topology from my old NYAL Super-It and adapted it for low-voltages on my last big CDP rebuild many years back. I am sure it is not up to the level of the Jung regulators and similar, but likely above that of just plain LM317s. I'll have to dig up my notes to get familiar with that topology again.
I'd also like to try batteries for the raw DC source... I fly electric model airplanes and have some sizable high-current Lithium-Polymer flight packs that I can plug in to see how they sound.
But this is all later this spring... working too hard now.
Greg in Minneapolis
Thanks for the info on the gain of the op-amp stage... I was not clear looking at the output stage schematic that it is a unity-gain stage.
Also thanks for the suggestion on the PS... I've gone through the entire thread a couple of times (my, this is a LONG thread!) and I'd seen that.
What I had in mind was a 2-stage regulated supply with LM317-based preregs and a simple opamp-driving a pass FET final stage. I lifted this topology from my old NYAL Super-It and adapted it for low-voltages on my last big CDP rebuild many years back. I am sure it is not up to the level of the Jung regulators and similar, but likely above that of just plain LM317s. I'll have to dig up my notes to get familiar with that topology again.
I'd also like to try batteries for the raw DC source... I fly electric model airplanes and have some sizable high-current Lithium-Polymer flight packs that I can plug in to see how they sound.
But this is all later this spring... working too hard now.
Greg in Minneapolis
Mick,
Thanks for the info on the gain of the op-amp stage... I was not clear looking at the output stage schematic that it is a unity-gain stage.
Also thanks for the suggestion on the PS... I've gone through the entire thread a couple of times (my, this is a LONG thread!) and I'd seen that.
What I had in mind was a 2-stage regulated supply with LM317-based preregs and a simple opamp-driving a pass FET final stage. I lifted this topology from my old NYAL Super-It and adapted it for low-voltages on my last big CDP rebuild many years back. I am sure it is not up to the level of the Jung regulators and similar, but likely above that of just plain LM317s. I'll have to dig up my notes to get familiar with that topology again.
I'd also like to try batteries for the raw DC source... I fly electric model airplanes and have some sizable high-current Lithium-Polymer flight packs that I can plug in to see how they sound.
But this is all later this spring... working too hard now.
Greg in Minneapolis
Thanks for the info on the gain of the op-amp stage... I was not clear looking at the output stage schematic that it is a unity-gain stage.
Also thanks for the suggestion on the PS... I've gone through the entire thread a couple of times (my, this is a LONG thread!) and I'd seen that.
What I had in mind was a 2-stage regulated supply with LM317-based preregs and a simple opamp-driving a pass FET final stage. I lifted this topology from my old NYAL Super-It and adapted it for low-voltages on my last big CDP rebuild many years back. I am sure it is not up to the level of the Jung regulators and similar, but likely above that of just plain LM317s. I'll have to dig up my notes to get familiar with that topology again.
I'd also like to try batteries for the raw DC source... I fly electric model airplanes and have some sizable high-current Lithium-Polymer flight packs that I can plug in to see how they sound.
But this is all later this spring... working too hard now.
Greg in Minneapolis
I could... but from my days playing with SS low-level electronics, better reg's make better sound... and the ones I mentioned above are pretty easy to implement, but takes some planning... need sufficient voltage headroom for the cascaded regs.
One tip I remember is that LM317/LM338 regs are supposed to sound better with a fairly high voltage drop across them... at least 10v as I remember.
Another is to preload the regulators with resistors to about 1/2 their rated output current with shunt resistors if the circuit does not load them that high.
I am curious why you suggested a LM317/LM338 supply.... isn't the PS just +3.6v and +7.6v... no LM338 needed?
On the batts, I've got some roughly 12v and 8v 7800MaH packs... I can put them in series in various combos to get 8v, 12v, 16v, 20v, and 24v. I'll be using them to try it out. If I like it, I'll do something more dedicated.
Greg in Minneapolis
One tip I remember is that LM317/LM338 regs are supposed to sound better with a fairly high voltage drop across them... at least 10v as I remember.
Another is to preload the regulators with resistors to about 1/2 their rated output current with shunt resistors if the circuit does not load them that high.
I am curious why you suggested a LM317/LM338 supply.... isn't the PS just +3.6v and +7.6v... no LM338 needed?
On the batts, I've got some roughly 12v and 8v 7800MaH packs... I can put them in series in various combos to get 8v, 12v, 16v, 20v, and 24v. I'll be using them to try it out. If I like it, I'll do something more dedicated.
Greg in Minneapolis
DragonMaster,
First, I apologize... I was confusing the LM337 with the LM338. You are correct, the LM338 is a higher-current positive voltage regulator and would be appropriate to use in the PS-1.
But I am confused about your comments about the current needed. I saw a post from Mick F back on 12/22/05 and he suggested that the max you see is just under 1 amp... and that .5 amp is a good steady-state figure for the 7.6 volt rail, the one that'll pull a higher current.
Am I missing something?
Greg in Minneapolis
First, I apologize... I was confusing the LM337 with the LM338. You are correct, the LM338 is a higher-current positive voltage regulator and would be appropriate to use in the PS-1.
But I am confused about your comments about the current needed. I saw a post from Mick F back on 12/22/05 and he suggested that the max you see is just under 1 amp... and that .5 amp is a good steady-state figure for the 7.6 volt rail, the one that'll pull a higher current.
Am I missing something?
Greg in Minneapolis
Lens read once and sometimes not !
I try to set up my ps1 1002 with the voltage knob because I had some drops .
Now it works fine but when I play a 2nd Cd the ps 1 mostly can't read it .
I can see the Cd runs too fast and the lens does noit recognize the CD .
Anyone can help ? Is this the lens or the power supply ? I am not technical ,
Ger56
I try to set up my ps1 1002 with the voltage knob because I had some drops .
Now it works fine but when I play a 2nd Cd the ps 1 mostly can't read it .
I can see the Cd runs too fast and the lens does noit recognize the CD .
Anyone can help ? Is this the lens or the power supply ? I am not technical ,
Ger56
Hi,
I thought I would go against the grain and say my PS of choice is the 5552, just remove two 10uf caps and wire direct to the pads joined to pins 15 and 16 (you will of course need to fit your own rca's).
It sounds the same (to me), as the 1002 but has more room inside the case for your Caps of choice,(You can fit fairly big poly's in the lid).
The ones in the picture are only 1.5uf but I have also used 4.7uf in previous trials. The 1.5uf caps are used with 100k grounding resistors to give me what I think is the best bass.
I have also fitted the controller inside (well it's guts), to give on-board control of, play/pause..stop..skip and previous via two toggle switches. The red led came with the cheap controller and I have since changed it to blue, (looks better if nothing else).
I am really enjoying this new cheap hobby, (the 5552's are only costing a few quid each).
Thanks to anyone for pointing me in the right direction, Barry..
I thought I would go against the grain and say my PS of choice is the 5552, just remove two 10uf caps and wire direct to the pads joined to pins 15 and 16 (you will of course need to fit your own rca's).
It sounds the same (to me), as the 1002 but has more room inside the case for your Caps of choice,(You can fit fairly big poly's in the lid).
The ones in the picture are only 1.5uf but I have also used 4.7uf in previous trials. The 1.5uf caps are used with 100k grounding resistors to give me what I think is the best bass.
I have also fitted the controller inside (well it's guts), to give on-board control of, play/pause..stop..skip and previous via two toggle switches. The red led came with the cheap controller and I have since changed it to blue, (looks better if nothing else).
I am really enjoying this new cheap hobby, (the 5552's are only costing a few quid each).
Thanks to anyone for pointing me in the right direction, Barry..Attachments
audio1st said:
Nice! and the caps were probably twice what you paid for the PS1!
So you jumped out from the DAC as per Mick's mod but straight to the RCA's?
How about combining the two? your T and the PS1?
I've already had a go and it fit's in the case!! I'm even looking at a common power supply.......
By the way...nice wallpaper!
Hello I just recently got my PS1 and it plays not too badly.
I adjusted the voltages exept I can't catch the 11.7 mv as my meter is too slow. I will check it with a CD playing.
One thing I noticed: the different CD I used now to play some are slightly warped.
Would a good mod be to be ablet to clamp the CD? The CD players have a hub device which grabs the CD between 2 large diameter hubs.
The PS1 has just a clip much like the album CD holders. It may be that the laser mechanism may be able to accomodate thesee small variations.
Any comments?
I adjusted the voltages exept I can't catch the 11.7 mv as my meter is too slow. I will check it with a CD playing.
One thing I noticed: the different CD I used now to play some are slightly warped.
Would a good mod be to be ablet to clamp the CD? The CD players have a hub device which grabs the CD between 2 large diameter hubs.
The PS1 has just a clip much like the album CD holders. It may be that the laser mechanism may be able to accomodate thesee small variations.
Any comments?