Playstation as CD-player

DragonMaster said:


I have this feature only with 101 not with 1001.

Also I wonder if the PSX is reading the data like a normal CDP or if it's doing DAE.



I have the SCPH 1002 and it has the different sound effects options offered on the TV screen. Not sure how you select these aprt from moving the pointer around the screen, wouldn't want to accidently select if all you had was the controller

:D
 
Lostcause said:
Back...

I'm a little confused by this comment, sorry.
Are you saying there IS a lack of detail or not?
Thanks
Lee


when we have a cd and it sounds harsch we use roll off with an eq or something.

if the harshness was caused by the tonality a treble roll off can fix it.

if the harshness was caused by distortion or noise adding roll off can`t fix it because we will reach a point we won`t be able to attenuate treble anymore because it will cause lack of detail.

but the ps1 sounds crystal clear with no lack of detail so it isn`t the case.

i hope you understand now.
you see english isn`t my mother language so i did my best.
 
back said:



when we have a cd and it sounds harsch we use roll off with an eq or something.

if the harshness was caused by the tonality a treble roll off can fix it.

if the harshness was caused by distortion or noise adding roll off can`t fix it because we will reach a point we won`t be able to attenuate treble anymore because it will cause lack of detail.

but the ps1 sounds crystal clear with no lack of detail so it isn`t the case.

i hope you understand now.
you see english isn`t my mother language so i did my best.

Makes perfect sense to me now...your english is a whole lot better than my Greek!!!

Thanks Back

Lee
 
DragonMaster said:
Hi, could you provide a screen shot if possible? Every model I know that released before the 101 don't have this kind of thing.

Happy to oblige. Nothing fancy I'm affraid as I don't have video capture on my PC. A good old photo of my TV screen ....
 

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something wrong

Well tried shorting the (+ve of first cap to -ve of 3rd cap) caps but something wrong. Heavily distorted on both channels.

It's hard to see if traces run underneath the caps. I am right in assuming that the DAC output goes to the +ve (side of the cap with a dark mark) and the 3rd cap is also polarised the same way ?

I appear to be able to measure resistance from the +ve of the 3rd cap to the RCA center !?!?!?!?!?! That would imply the 3rd cap is the wrong way round ? That cannot be ...... I'll retrace my steps
 
Could it be the opamp not being disconnected?

I think that while making the scheme the first pair of caps was not connected the same polarity as with the A/V MULTI OUT.

One thing you could try would be to remove one of the pairs of caps to disconnect the opamp.

Also, maybe exchanging the place where you wires are connected.


Happy to oblige. Nothing fancy I'm affraid as I don't have video capture on my PC. A good old photo of my TV screen ....

Well, that's the CD player interface that I have on my PSOne SCPH-101. The select button activates a visualization feature instead of stopping the CD.

On the old PSX SCPH-1001, it looks like in the attachement.

The pic. comes form my 15" PC screen with a poor quality composite to VGA adapter.
 

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On mine the DSP buttons are the onces that have a yellow tint. They read 'DOME', 'CATHEDRAL',HALL, STUDIO,DIRECT, and appear to add progressively less echo.

The Q is is DIRECT really DIRECT:xeye:

Think you are right about the opamp being in circuit. I'll remove the first caps, I now have a small bit for the soldering iron and it's getting easier.
 
Re: something wrong

jives11 said:
Well tried shorting the (+ve of first cap to -ve of 3rd cap) caps but something wrong. Heavily distorted on both channels.

It's hard to see if traces run underneath the caps. I am right in assuming that the DAC output goes to the +ve (side of the cap with a dark mark) and the 3rd cap is also polarised the same way ?

I appear to be able to measure resistance from the +ve of the 3rd cap to the RCA center !?!?!?!?!?! That would imply the 3rd cap is the wrong way round ? That cannot be ...... I'll retrace my steps

bypass only the first pair of caps and then use the AV /CONNECTOR.
add two female rca from the AV/CONNECTOR outout and you are done forget about the existing rca.
the AV/CONNECTOR out after you bypass the first pair of caps will only have 2 resistors 1k in the signal path no opamps nothing else
 
jives11 said:
Thanks back, but I thought the second set of caps were for AV, while the first and third were for the RCA ?

i can`t tell you about that because mine have only one pair i just quess that the first pair is common and after that we have two paths.

mine have two more caps (c5,c5)
but they connect from the output to the ground don`t be confused with them.
 
Thanks

I think that is for the AV output. Mine also has RCA outputs which use a single JRCOpamp as a buffer. My previous understanding is that the of the two rows of 2 10uF caps, the middle ones are C424 & C423 in your diagram.

The outer two pairs are can be seen in an earlier post by dragonmaster showing the RCA circuit.

I guess the safe bet would be to remove all and short all ?
 
jives11 said:
Thanks

I think that is for the AV output. Mine also has RCA outputs which use a single JRCOpamp as a buffer. My previous understanding is that the of the two rows of 2 10uF caps, the middle ones are C424 & C423 in your diagram.

The outer two pairs are can be seen in an earlier post by dragonmaster showing the RCA circuit.

I guess the safe bet would be to remove all and short all ?

it`s easier to do what i told you have to keep the mute or else you will have noises when you press stop,play etc. from the dc offset.
i have noise only when i turn it off and on but i turn down the amps volume first and i am ok.
 
Thanks back, but I thought the second set of caps were for AV, while the first and third were for the RCA ?

Yup!

i can`t tell you about that because mine have only one pair i just quess that the first pair is common and after that we have two paths.

Nope, the first and second pair inputs are connected in parallel. Then the first pair's output goes to the opamp and the second pair goes to A/V out.


mine have two more caps (c5,c5)
but they connect from the output to the ground don`t be confused with them.

These are also there on the 100x's A/V connector. I haven't found any for the RCA jacks.

Hi, I don't really know, if this helps...found it in dah web.

I think it's the output-stage.

It was posted by Mick a couple of pages before.
Here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=774749#post774749
But this one is just for A/V MULTI OUT like jives11 stated.

I also DIYed the schematic for the RCA plugs here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=776664#post776664

how do you get past the initial "choose memorycard or Audio"-screen if the TV isn't connected?

Put a CD in it. If it doesn't work while it's powered on, put the CD before starting the unit or press reset when inserting it.


it`s easier to do what i told you have to keep the mute or else you will have noises when you press stop,play etc. from the dc offset.
i have noise only when i turn it off and on but i turn down the amps volume first and i am ok.

And what about the muting transistors? Maybe we should just put some relays at the output that are activated by the same trigger as the current ones?

i used an external 13.8volt 7A psu and used 2 LM 317K to take out
7.6v and 3.6v. it didn`t work. the LM317K can`t handle the current.
Have you tried with LM338? It's a 5A version of the 317.
 
DragonMaster said:


And what about the muting transistors? Maybe we should just put some relays at the output that are activated by the same trigger as the current ones?


Have you tried with LM338? It's a 5A version of the 317.


you think it we`ll gain something by replacing the transistors with relays?

no i didn`t try 338 because i couldn`t find it.
actualy i couldn`t find anything adjustable stronger than 317
so i will add two 2N3055 tomorrow driven by the LM317`s
we will know tomorrow how it sounds.

i think the original psu is not stabilised it just have two big caps
one 820 uf and one 560 uf
 
you think it we`ll gain something by replacing the transistors with relays?

I thought it was a well-known mod for CD players.

Well, the transistors are supposed to add more distortion to the sound.

Replacing by relays should not be requiered, just preventing pops. Disconnecting the first and 3rd pair and putting a jumper wire should do the job easily.

You could try multiple LM317s in parallel also.

Something that would be helpful to know would be how much current each lines draw.

Most SMPSes don't have a lot of filtering at the output as far as I know.
 
DragonMaster said:


I thought it was a well-known mod for CD players.

Well, the transistors are supposed to add more distortion to the sound.

Replacing by relays should not be requiered, just preventing pops. Disconnecting the first and 3rd pair and putting a jumper wire should do the job easily.

You could try multiple LM317s in parallel also.

Something that would be helpful to know would be how much current each lines draw.

Most SMPSes don't have a lot of filtering at the output as far as I know.

after i finish the psu i will try the dac output leg`s 15 and 16
straight to the rca`s to see if i will have noise because removing them is one way road.

i will add two 2N3055 to finish with it (15A max)

i think the 1.5A of 317 is enough but the peak current of the motor when it starts is big