Laser intensity and burned cd's
For those of you having trouble playing their burned cd's; I just adjusted the laser intensity from the previous adjustment of 11.4mv to 13mv. and so far all of my discs are now playing. Is that the trick? Sure the laser will wear out sooner but at least I can now play my many burned discs. Worth the $16 replacement laser.
For those of you having trouble playing their burned cd's; I just adjusted the laser intensity from the previous adjustment of 11.4mv to 13mv. and so far all of my discs are now playing. Is that the trick? Sure the laser will wear out sooner but at least I can now play my many burned discs. Worth the $16 replacement laser.
What a long thread! Seems like the theme of this thread is to replace the analog output stage with better design and parts, but my question is, why not bypass the D/A converter all together? I'm not sure if this link has been posted on this thread, but is the main design goal here to obtain a good analog audio output or use your own high quality DAC?
The I2S audio lines and the master clock line can be driven longer distance with a differential line driver, like some form of RS485 transmitter or a differential line driver IC for transmission of I2S over something like CAT5. It wouldn't add too much jitter, would it?
The I2S audio lines and the master clock line can be driven longer distance with a differential line driver, like some form of RS485 transmitter or a differential line driver IC for transmission of I2S over something like CAT5. It wouldn't add too much jitter, would it?
a positive response and comments.
Guys,
I am far from the true experts here, but I have used these Greystations off and on for the past 4 or 5 years. I currently have 10 (not looking to sell them). I can make a few positive comments regarding these PS1 used as a cd player:
And here are a few negatives:
pixelphoto, emuman100:
emmbee:
I think a good linear supply can be had pretty easily. Look at a linear supply with dual voltages. I have one that has 5VDC and 12VDC out. I've never used it, but it should be more than capable of meeting the requirements. You can use ferrite beads on each leg of the power supply as it connects to the other boards. If you like a voltage regulator (well actually 2) could be built on a small board or purchased.
There are many suppliers of good parts. One that has a lot of good audio stuff is partsconnexion. (I am in no way affiliated to any supply business ). I know Mouser and Digikey and perhaps PartsExpress would be pretty good. Also check out Solen
Hope that helps. As for more technical questions, I defer to others.
Guys,
I am far from the true experts here, but I have used these Greystations off and on for the past 4 or 5 years. I currently have 10 (not looking to sell them). I can make a few positive comments regarding these PS1 used as a cd player:
- they are very robustly built
- they are easy to modify without going over the deep end
- with very simple mods they sound very good
- they are not "transparent" compared to th big $ units, but better than almost every midfi product out there
- with a tune-up they can read almost every disc available (even burnt ones)
And here are a few negatives:
- the enclosure is very poor
- there is no direct visual interface, so knowing where you are at or what you are doing can be a PITA
- on the earliest versions (SCHP100X) the power supply is on the LHS. As the laser gets towards the end of the disc, the heat of the power supply can have a negative effect
- besides being a poor enclosure, it is FUGLY
pixelphoto, emuman100:
Yes!
I can't say strictly that the chip is better, but I have had experience to speak (in person) to a fellow tinkerer who owns a Wadia transport/DAC. His feelings are that with the minimal effort required to get great sound out of these, that it is the same sonic league as the Wadia pair.
emmbee:
I think a good linear supply can be had pretty easily. Look at a linear supply with dual voltages. I have one that has 5VDC and 12VDC out. I've never used it, but it should be more than capable of meeting the requirements. You can use ferrite beads on each leg of the power supply as it connects to the other boards. If you like a voltage regulator (well actually 2) could be built on a small board or purchased.
There are many suppliers of good parts. One that has a lot of good audio stuff is partsconnexion. (I am in no way affiliated to any supply business ). I know Mouser and Digikey and perhaps PartsExpress would be pretty good. Also check out Solen
Hope that helps. As for more technical questions, I defer to others.
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Hi Nanook, thank you for your response. I discovered the PS-1 (1001) a few months ago and now have three. I've become a little obsessed with the whole thing. All three work and have been tuned. I'm now moding the output stage of the oldest one (my test bed) and waiting for caps and resistors to finish that part. I've also mounted a two prong IEC jack (comments) and drilled vent holes over the PS location.
I'm not trained in electronics and don't understand the finer details; but I have taught myself to solder and desolder and I can follow instruction.
I would like to change the RCA's for better quality ones but am not entirely sure how to. Is this correct?: Solder caps (+) to DAC, solder caps (-) to wire, solder wire to replacement RCA's (ignoring the old RCA's), solder resistors. Must I still cut the traces for the old RCA's?
Regards,
Marvin
I'm not trained in electronics and don't understand the finer details; but I have taught myself to solder and desolder and I can follow instruction.
I would like to change the RCA's for better quality ones but am not entirely sure how to. Is this correct?: Solder caps (+) to DAC, solder caps (-) to wire, solder wire to replacement RCA's (ignoring the old RCA's), solder resistors. Must I still cut the traces for the old RCA's?
Regards,
Marvin
"No direct visual interface"
Hi Nanook,
Thanks for the informative piece on the PS1.
I really just wanted to remind you that you can connect an LCD screen to the video output of the PS!. This then will let you view PS1 status, current track (number) and total number of tracks. It is better than nothing. I use a screen designed for use in a car.. very cheap and about 4" by 3". You need a 12VDC supply which I managed to embed in my PS1 modified chassis.
George
Hi Nanook,
Thanks for the informative piece on the PS1.
I really just wanted to remind you that you can connect an LCD screen to the video output of the PS!. This then will let you view PS1 status, current track (number) and total number of tracks. It is better than nothing. I use a screen designed for use in a car.. very cheap and about 4" by 3". You need a 12VDC supply which I managed to embed in my PS1 modified chassis.
George
no direct visual interface...and is this corrct?
georgebrooke: Yes I am aware that this can be done. I was using the example of a stock set-up.
pixelphoto: for the RCA jacks I wouls take the existing ones out and replace with better ones. That will give you more space on the back panel. I use my PS1 without any mods except the capacitor "leg lift", so no muting caps. But basically (AFAIK) you gave it correct.
georgebrooke: Yes I am aware that this can be done. I was using the example of a stock set-up.
pixelphoto: for the RCA jacks I wouls take the existing ones out and replace with better ones. That will give you more space on the back panel. I use my PS1 without any mods except the capacitor "leg lift", so no muting caps. But basically (AFAIK) you gave it correct.
I have copied this from the thread on Swap Meet as it is likely to have wider interest. It increases the output in case you are using a passive pre.
EDIT: Just realised I saved the pic from Audio1st's post. The Dac op-amp is located under the main board (so you have to dismantle the whole thing (again). Remove the resistors marked 183 and replace with 10k for both. I managed to solder two qtr watt metal fim resistors in there by keeping the leads very short. You will note that the adjacent pads are linked which gives you more room to solder the non-SMD resistors. You will be amazed by the difference (well I was anyway)
EDIT: Just realised I saved the pic from Audio1st's post. The Dac op-amp is located under the main board (so you have to dismantle the whole thing (again). Remove the resistors marked 183 and replace with 10k for both. I managed to solder two qtr watt metal fim resistors in there by keeping the leads very short. You will note that the adjacent pads are linked which gives you more room to solder the non-SMD resistors. You will be amazed by the difference (well I was anyway)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It must be something that I am drinking ... I stared at your diagram but could only see components marked EB1 ... then the penny dropped. Will pursue as soon as new glasses arrive
Hi everyone, I am a noob here, but I was wondering if it would be possible to use a playstation as a DAC for a computer, using a USB/optical connection and perhaps wiring it in so that it bypasses the the processor or the laser input to the processor? (Just for your information, my knowledge of electronics is highly limited - as in I know what happens when you put resistors/capacitors in series or parallel)
The AK D/A converter has I2S signals running into it, so you can tap signals from there. Apparently people like the PS because of it's AK D/A converter, so they don't bother using a separate one. The pinout of everything is here, but that's the SCPH7000. The link has a circuit for it's I2S to S/PDIF conversion. The converter on that page uses an obseleted Toshiba IC. It can be found on ebay for cheap, but who knows if it's a counterfeit part or not. I built a converter for the Nintendo Gamecube using the same IC. If a suitable coaxial cable driver can be designed, the I2S lines can be sent over coax with BNC connectors.
emuman100: Wow thanks enuman! So that site gives circuitry for a TOSlink output right? So for a TOSlink input, would I wire in a switch to provide only the 5V power supply to the DAC (bypassing the unneeded components, but still allowing the possibility of use of the Playstation as a CD Player), and put the TOSlink connection into the input of the DAC rather than the output, and use the RCA/AV multi out? I found the schematic of the AK4309AV DAC (the one in the SCPH100x) on dogbreath.de (here), but my attempts at deciphering it were futile, haha! So if I decipher the schematic of the DAC, and work out the pins that take the input, and then wire the TOSlink connector from uyouyo.com in, it should work?
puffin: Haha! Thanks anyway Rob. Would the CS8406 sound better? I assume this is it?
Thanks again to you both, and if I am making no sense at all, I apologies in advance
Alex
puffin: Haha! Thanks anyway Rob. Would the CS8406 sound better? I assume this is it?
Thanks again to you both, and if I am making no sense at all, I apologies in advance
Alex
Hello ,
i run a Playstation SCPH5502 on the two TDA1541A in old SONY CDP227-ESD (with damaged KSS 151 Laser) : SONY PS 1 SCPH5502 on parallel TDA1541A in a Sony CDP227-ESD - YouTube
Conect the GND/LRCK/DATA/BCK and MLCK (16,9344MHz) direct from the PS to the DF CXD1144P . Lift up the MUTE Pins (4&5). It sound verx good . The DF works now in 4xOS mode .
By
Bernd
i run a Playstation SCPH5502 on the two TDA1541A in old SONY CDP227-ESD (with damaged KSS 151 Laser) : SONY PS 1 SCPH5502 on parallel TDA1541A in a Sony CDP227-ESD - YouTube
Conect the GND/LRCK/DATA/BCK and MLCK (16,9344MHz) direct from the PS to the DF CXD1144P . Lift up the MUTE Pins (4&5). It sound verx good . The DF works now in 4xOS mode .
By
Bernd
Well, if you're going to do that, why not just design and build your own DAC using the AK4309AV instead of using a PS1? You could connect a S/PDIF receiver to the I2S input of the AK4309 with a clean output stage, but you're better off building your own DAC.
The CS8406 converts I2S output into S/PDIF. The obsoleted Toshiba part does the same thing, but I know the CS8406 can resample. I used a CS8405A, back in 2006 to do the I2S to S/PDIF conversion on the Gamecube as well as the hard to find obsoleted Toshiba part. It never worked no matter what I tried, I got frustrated, and since I had a working converter using the obsoleted Toshiba part, I never bothered to try to get it working with the CS8405A. I think the hackers copied my idea, lol, only using the newer part that can support up to 192kHz sampling rate with less power consumption.
Attached is the original schematic designed by oscar, a Japanese fellow who figured out the video D/A converter inside the Gamecube D-Terminal and component video cable can output RGB as well as YPrPb, and this meant that when certain games were booted in 480p mode, you can display the game on a VGA monitor. I build the circuit in the schematic and it works beautifully.
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