Hi georgebrooke,
Yes I made the two changes made in the dogbreath article (DC caps and muting transistors). The A/V multi out is is working. I still need to connect the jumper wires across where the DC caps were for the signal to go to the phono sockets. My question is using the poor quality existing pre-amp that still there, is the audio signal better through the phono socket or the A/V?
(At this point, as you have probably figured out, I have a very limited skill set when it comes to this stuff, but am willing to jump in and do what I can.)
-----Anyway, in Hi Fi it is usually more convenient to use industry-standard connections such as phonos rather than the A/V outputs of the PS1.--I just happend to pick up this high quality A/V connector that has gold plating, but I will see how it sounds through the phono socket side.
Thanks for the input,
-Jeff
Yes I made the two changes made in the dogbreath article (DC caps and muting transistors). The A/V multi out is is working. I still need to connect the jumper wires across where the DC caps were for the signal to go to the phono sockets. My question is using the poor quality existing pre-amp that still there, is the audio signal better through the phono socket or the A/V?
(At this point, as you have probably figured out, I have a very limited skill set when it comes to this stuff, but am willing to jump in and do what I can.)
-----Anyway, in Hi Fi it is usually more convenient to use industry-standard connections such as phonos rather than the A/V outputs of the PS1.--I just happend to pick up this high quality A/V connector that has gold plating, but I will see how it sounds through the phono socket side.
Thanks for the input,
-Jeff
An update. The green light of the receiver don't light up when the console is turned on and off, but the wired controller works fine. And, as I told you, the receiver works fine in the 7502. I don't kow what to think.
Hi,
I assume that this is true for both ports on the PS1?
I can only think that the IR receiver is making use of some power connection (or signal connection) which the wired controller does not. My guess would be a power connection as the absence of a green light at all is suspicious. Is there any chance you can repeat your tests on some other PS1 of the 1002 type?
One other fault suggestion.... I have seen a long time ago a misalignment of the edge connector on some IR receivers. The effect would be that they would only work in PS1 where there a corresponding slackness of alignment of contacts. The easiest way of checking this is to look at the wear pattern on the edge connector of the receiver. Each of the connectors should show some scraping where it makes a contact with the PS1. If the scraping is not there then this might be the problem. If it is then you can probably correct the problem by filing away the plastic until the alignment is OK again.
I can honestly say that in modifying dozens of PS1 machines along the dogbreath suggested changes for various clients, I have never found a machine which would not operate with an IR receiver transmitter. Your problem is pretty unusual. I am coming down to the idea that the motherboard on the 1002 is faulty ... but I hate to be beaten on this because the symptoms are unusual. Anything more that you can tell me would be useful.
I assume that this is true for both ports on the PS1?
I can only think that the IR receiver is making use of some power connection (or signal connection) which the wired controller does not. My guess would be a power connection as the absence of a green light at all is suspicious. Is there any chance you can repeat your tests on some other PS1 of the 1002 type?
One other fault suggestion.... I have seen a long time ago a misalignment of the edge connector on some IR receivers. The effect would be that they would only work in PS1 where there a corresponding slackness of alignment of contacts. The easiest way of checking this is to look at the wear pattern on the edge connector of the receiver. Each of the connectors should show some scraping where it makes a contact with the PS1. If the scraping is not there then this might be the problem. If it is then you can probably correct the problem by filing away the plastic until the alignment is OK again.
I can honestly say that in modifying dozens of PS1 machines along the dogbreath suggested changes for various clients, I have never found a machine which would not operate with an IR receiver transmitter. Your problem is pretty unusual. I am coming down to the idea that the motherboard on the 1002 is faulty ... but I hate to be beaten on this because the symptoms are unusual. Anything more that you can tell me would be useful.
Before and After the mod with measurements !
Hi folks,
I have discovered a few months ago this thread and I decided to do the modification. I choosed the Mick Feuerbacher Mod.
To be sure that the modification do something, I have made some measurements with the software called RMMA (Right Mark Audio Analysis).
There is an important point to know about those measures: they not reflect the real specifications of the Playsation 1 Modification !!! On the contrary, you have to look the difference. Why ? Because I have use my sound card to have the measurements, and it's not possible with the RMMA software to substitute the characteristics of the sound to the sound measured. So the most important is to compare the benefits of the modification.
I have Used the Mundorf Capacitor RXS 3.3 uF/600V and a 22k Resistor, 1% tolerance, with silver solder and teflon cables. SAme audio cables and power supply before/after.
Enough words, here are the pictures and the data (inside bracket, the RMMA analysis):
First the data:
- Frequency Response:
Before: +0.14, -0.26 (good) / After: +0.16, -0.18 (very good)
- Noise level, dB (A):
Before: -87.2 (good) / After: -88.7 (good)
- Dynamic Range, dB (A):
Before: 88.1 (good) / After: 88.0 (good)
- THD, %:
Before: 0.098 (average) / After: 0.019 (good)
- THD + Noise, dB (A):
Before: -54.3 (poor) / After: -71.6 (average)
- IMD + Noise, %:
Before: 0.208 (average) / After: 0.019 (very good)
- IMD at 10kHz, %:
Before 0.237 (average) / After: 0.034 (good)
- Stereo Crosstalk, dB:
Before: -85.0 (very good) / After: -88.7 (excellent)
Second, my feeling !
It's rocks ! But I am not a professional of acoustic analysis. Regarding the analysis of RMMA, it's gain in a better way.
Please let me know your thoughts ! I plan to add some blue leds near the laser to have a try and to do a new chassis !
Waiting for your comments !
Hi folks,
I have discovered a few months ago this thread and I decided to do the modification. I choosed the Mick Feuerbacher Mod.
To be sure that the modification do something, I have made some measurements with the software called RMMA (Right Mark Audio Analysis).
There is an important point to know about those measures: they not reflect the real specifications of the Playsation 1 Modification !!! On the contrary, you have to look the difference. Why ? Because I have use my sound card to have the measurements, and it's not possible with the RMMA software to substitute the characteristics of the sound to the sound measured. So the most important is to compare the benefits of the modification.
I have Used the Mundorf Capacitor RXS 3.3 uF/600V and a 22k Resistor, 1% tolerance, with silver solder and teflon cables. SAme audio cables and power supply before/after.
Enough words, here are the pictures and the data (inside bracket, the RMMA analysis):
First the data:
- Frequency Response:
Before: +0.14, -0.26 (good) / After: +0.16, -0.18 (very good)
- Noise level, dB (A):
Before: -87.2 (good) / After: -88.7 (good)
- Dynamic Range, dB (A):
Before: 88.1 (good) / After: 88.0 (good)
- THD, %:
Before: 0.098 (average) / After: 0.019 (good)
- THD + Noise, dB (A):
Before: -54.3 (poor) / After: -71.6 (average)
- IMD + Noise, %:
Before: 0.208 (average) / After: 0.019 (very good)
- IMD at 10kHz, %:
Before 0.237 (average) / After: 0.034 (good)
- Stereo Crosstalk, dB:
Before: -85.0 (very good) / After: -88.7 (excellent)
Second, my feeling !
It's rocks ! But I am not a professional of acoustic analysis. Regarding the analysis of RMMA, it's gain in a better way.
Please let me know your thoughts ! I plan to add some blue leds near the laser to have a try and to do a new chassis !
Waiting for your comments !
The Measurements
Hi
to my knowledge this is the first time that measurements of this type have been made on the PS1 "before and after" the dogbreath mods/.
They are very useful and informative and go some way to explaining the attraction of this remarkable piece of equipment.
I think that the measurements generally confirm the listening tests that I have been conducting over several years of use ... except for one feature. After making the dogbreath updates to my PS1 I found a rhythm and timing improvement .... the symptoms of which were a lot of foot tapping and a very large grin on my face!
Seriously though, I have no idea how to measure improved rhythm or indeed what constitutes it, although the PS1, after the modes, certainly has it! I certainly would like to thank "thedream" for his efforts in this.
George
Hi
to my knowledge this is the first time that measurements of this type have been made on the PS1 "before and after" the dogbreath mods/.
They are very useful and informative and go some way to explaining the attraction of this remarkable piece of equipment.
I think that the measurements generally confirm the listening tests that I have been conducting over several years of use ... except for one feature. After making the dogbreath updates to my PS1 I found a rhythm and timing improvement .... the symptoms of which were a lot of foot tapping and a very large grin on my face!
Seriously though, I have no idea how to measure improved rhythm or indeed what constitutes it, although the PS1, after the modes, certainly has it! I certainly would like to thank "thedream" for his efforts in this.
George
Many thanks to thedream and georgebrooke for sharing your Playstation modification experiences and data. Also, many thanks to Mick feuerbacher for his wonderful Web site with step-by-step instructions on modifying the Playstation.
I used Mick Feuerbacher's output stage modifications as a guideline to modding my Playstation 1 Model SCPH-5501. I use Elna Silmic II 4.7uF/35V electrolytic caps on the output stage, because they easily fit within the chassis. These are bypassed with Sonicap Gen 2 0.01uF/200V metallized Propylene caps for a very pleasing musical presentation. I tried the Vishay Roederstein MKP-1837 0.01uF/160V caps as well. These provided a different presentation of the midrange and treble. For those who like the more "hi fi" sound, this might be a better bypass. In either case, the bypass cap's sound characteristics really complement the smoothness and warmth of the Elna Silmic II caps. Nelson Pass recommended that I try the Elna Silmic IIs as an alternative to Black Gate Ns, which are "unobtainium" at this point.
I never built the linear power supply, because I couldn't find some of the computer connectors for connections to the power supply. What I did instead was replace the rectifier diodes with MUR860 600V/8A diodes, and installed better and slightly larger capacitance low ESR Panasonic FC and FM caps on the stock supply's secondary stage filter cap positions. This improved dynamic range, speed (or PRaT) and low end frequency definition.
A couple weeks ago, I brought my Playstation to a friend's audio gathering, and everyone was astonished at how this player faired against an NOS DAC and transport combo. It was actually more engaging on some CDs compared to vinyl spinning on a Thorens TD-125 MkII/SME 3009 Mk II/Shelter MC analog front end! Anyway, many of my friends have asked me to modifiy Playstation 1s in the same manner my unit is modified.
Lastly, a good tweak my friends and I have discovered are these cork and rubber vibration isolation pads. These are similar to "audiophile" feet sold for well over twice what I paid for at the local industrial supplies store. These things actually work!
Pad, Anti Vibration, Pk2 - Vibration Isolator Pads - Mounts and Vibration Control - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply
I used Mick Feuerbacher's output stage modifications as a guideline to modding my Playstation 1 Model SCPH-5501. I use Elna Silmic II 4.7uF/35V electrolytic caps on the output stage, because they easily fit within the chassis. These are bypassed with Sonicap Gen 2 0.01uF/200V metallized Propylene caps for a very pleasing musical presentation. I tried the Vishay Roederstein MKP-1837 0.01uF/160V caps as well. These provided a different presentation of the midrange and treble. For those who like the more "hi fi" sound, this might be a better bypass. In either case, the bypass cap's sound characteristics really complement the smoothness and warmth of the Elna Silmic II caps. Nelson Pass recommended that I try the Elna Silmic IIs as an alternative to Black Gate Ns, which are "unobtainium" at this point.
I never built the linear power supply, because I couldn't find some of the computer connectors for connections to the power supply. What I did instead was replace the rectifier diodes with MUR860 600V/8A diodes, and installed better and slightly larger capacitance low ESR Panasonic FC and FM caps on the stock supply's secondary stage filter cap positions. This improved dynamic range, speed (or PRaT) and low end frequency definition.
A couple weeks ago, I brought my Playstation to a friend's audio gathering, and everyone was astonished at how this player faired against an NOS DAC and transport combo. It was actually more engaging on some CDs compared to vinyl spinning on a Thorens TD-125 MkII/SME 3009 Mk II/Shelter MC analog front end! Anyway, many of my friends have asked me to modifiy Playstation 1s in the same manner my unit is modified.
Lastly, a good tweak my friends and I have discovered are these cork and rubber vibration isolation pads. These are similar to "audiophile" feet sold for well over twice what I paid for at the local industrial supplies store. These things actually work!
Pad, Anti Vibration, Pk2 - Vibration Isolator Pads - Mounts and Vibration Control - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply
Hi,
if, like most, your preamp has filtering on its inputs to protect it from DC, then you might find it interesting to directly connect the DAC of the PS1 to the preamp. This should give you as clean a sound as possible. I found it useful to provide two sets of outputs on my PS1... the direct-to-DAC output and the other via a built-in pre-amp. Both sound very good and both have that mysterious rhythm.
George
if, like most, your preamp has filtering on its inputs to protect it from DC, then you might find it interesting to directly connect the DAC of the PS1 to the preamp. This should give you as clean a sound as possible. I found it useful to provide two sets of outputs on my PS1... the direct-to-DAC output and the other via a built-in pre-amp. Both sound very good and both have that mysterious rhythm.
George
Hi Audio1st.
May I ask you were you get this marvelous power supply? I know its on ebay, but the link is broken.
Other folks, do you where I can purchase an ajustable power supply as the one in the message of Audio1st ?
Thanks
Yesterday I had my first audio session. The counterparts were PS1 scph-1002 vs. Panasonic DVD-S75.
Software:
- Diana Krall - The girl in the other room (tr.2,3,4)
- Patricia Barber - Nightcafé (tr.2)
PS1 directly plugged out-of-the-box to the preamp with Oehlbach beat NF-cables.
Results:
- Sound of PS1 was much darker and deeper than the Panasonic.
- Resolution and details were much better with Panasonic. The Pana shows every breath or harmonics, the PS acts a little bit lazy. The Panasonic is the analyst, the PS is the diplomat or the sound cloud maker.
- Dynamics of the PS was a little bit laid-back.
- Spatiality was good and wide but the PS lets Diana Krall grow about 2 feet.
- one analogy came up: the comparison reminded me of the comparison between OPA2604 (PS1) and LM4562(Panasonic).
Conclusion:
I am a little bit double-minded what to do now with the PS. Should I invest time and money to tune it or not.
After reading many hints and modding recipes I am confused about what helps and is a noticeable improvement or what is just voodoo and nonsense (like blue leds or ceramic fuse).
I would be thankful about some hints what really helps to raise the quality on to a higher level.
@joydivision: What is the difference between Vpp and Vrms? Have you measured the VREFH-pin already?
Hi,
I have pretty well made all of the changes that are possible to a PS1. It is very hard to separate them out from the point of view of value for money / benefit. However, not wanting to make enemies amongst the fundamentalists amongst us:
1) Output circuitry changes, as in dogbreath articles
2) External power supply
3) Adjusted laser voltages and proper set up
The above are, broadly, all necessary. The other changes that are possible have looked nice (blue lasers for example) but I have yet to see / hear any differences.
If you are building the system for your own use then why not skip the phono outputs and take a direct link from the DAC to the input stage of your pre-amp. This avoids money and time spent on ever bigger and better caps (the best cap is no cap principle holds quite well).
Generally, interfaces cause problems. We make them so that we can have modular and portable systems, but there is always a trade-off. However, if that is not what you need, then try hard-wiring it all together. Problem avoidance beats problem solution every time
Hi,
According to Mick, the RCA output stage feeds the signal through an additional opamp, the AV Multi out does not. So I thought I'd solder some leads directly to the AV Multi out and take it for a listen. I felt like the mids and lows were fuller without diminishing the highs.
I hope this helps.
Cheers,
-Jeff
According to Mick, the RCA output stage feeds the signal through an additional opamp, the AV Multi out does not. So I thought I'd solder some leads directly to the AV Multi out and take it for a listen. I felt like the mids and lows were fuller without diminishing the highs.
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I hope this helps.
Cheers,
-Jeff
Hi All,
I came across this site a few weeks ago and saw the article on the PS, like George i had been getting increasingly dissapointed over the years with the digital sound compared to even my old modest analoge setup,
after spending quite a bit of time reading all the thread and Micks website i decided to give it a go, from ebay i ended up getting two 1002 models and a 5000 and 7000 model for very little money, the newer ones just in case the earlier versions needed a new drive,
the first to arrive had the AV lead,
my son connected it to his PS3 and amp as this was already set up and connected to the tv,
all i can say is we were both blown away by the improvement compared to the budget CD player i had been using, dragging out another CD player from a cupboard and a few power cords we then spent a day comparing them, ( a sony and a cambridge ) the PS3 blew them into the weeds, a wider sound stage higher deeper and a clarity that the budget players just didn't have, and a more analogue sound,
the foot tapping came back since then i've spent a week and a half with it on most of the day going through my CD's
and hopefully will do the mods as described here on the old PS,s over the next few weeks, and compare those to the newer PS3, ( once i get a better iron a 70 watter used for soldering brass locos together is just a bit to big )
so cheers guys to all who have posted there mods and what they have done and used a big thank you especially Mick for renewing my enjoyment in music,
John
I came across this site a few weeks ago and saw the article on the PS, like George i had been getting increasingly dissapointed over the years with the digital sound compared to even my old modest analoge setup,
after spending quite a bit of time reading all the thread and Micks website i decided to give it a go, from ebay i ended up getting two 1002 models and a 5000 and 7000 model for very little money, the newer ones just in case the earlier versions needed a new drive,
the first to arrive had the AV lead,
my son connected it to his PS3 and amp as this was already set up and connected to the tv,
all i can say is we were both blown away by the improvement compared to the budget CD player i had been using, dragging out another CD player from a cupboard and a few power cords we then spent a day comparing them, ( a sony and a cambridge ) the PS3 blew them into the weeds, a wider sound stage higher deeper and a clarity that the budget players just didn't have, and a more analogue sound,
the foot tapping came back since then i've spent a week and a half with it on most of the day going through my CD's
and hopefully will do the mods as described here on the old PS,s over the next few weeks, and compare those to the newer PS3, ( once i get a better iron a 70 watter used for soldering brass locos together is just a bit to big )
so cheers guys to all who have posted there mods and what they have done and used a big thank you especially Mick for renewing my enjoyment in music,
John
Hi,
Although I continue to modify PS1 for friends and clients .... the original idea of a cheap high-end CD player is running out of steam, with the introduction of high-quality digital recordings into the computer domain. The PS1 is still pretty good.. but what's next?
One of the reasons the PS1 sounds so good is the excellent AKM DAC.. the 4395. I know there has been a lot of interest in a DIY DAC based on a successor of the 4395, the 4396, but there has not been much to play with, at least so far....
Anyway, I have started to build a new computer from scratch, aimed at multi-media and one of the new cards is an Auzentech Meridian 7.1. (see X-Meridian 7.1 2G from Auzentech, Inc. : World First soundcards for Music, HTPC, and Gaming. ) . To my surprise this card has no fewer than 4 AKM4396 chips (handling up to so-called 7.1 channels), so I am hoping for pretty good quality sound out of the front channels at least. Even better, the op-amps following the DACs are in sockets, to allow for op-amp upgrading. This means we could couple directly to the output of the DAC by inserting a DIP header into the op-amp socket and taking the signal out directly, just as we have (mostly) done in the PS1.
So, once again the old hobby continues,but at a new level and with the same family of DAC processors. I am sure there will be problems with this.. not the least noise introduced into the sound card from the graphics card and the power supply but there will be a way around it.. even if I have to mount the new sound card outboard.
Although I continue to modify PS1 for friends and clients .... the original idea of a cheap high-end CD player is running out of steam, with the introduction of high-quality digital recordings into the computer domain. The PS1 is still pretty good.. but what's next?
One of the reasons the PS1 sounds so good is the excellent AKM DAC.. the 4395. I know there has been a lot of interest in a DIY DAC based on a successor of the 4395, the 4396, but there has not been much to play with, at least so far....
Anyway, I have started to build a new computer from scratch, aimed at multi-media and one of the new cards is an Auzentech Meridian 7.1. (see X-Meridian 7.1 2G from Auzentech, Inc. : World First soundcards for Music, HTPC, and Gaming. ) . To my surprise this card has no fewer than 4 AKM4396 chips (handling up to so-called 7.1 channels), so I am hoping for pretty good quality sound out of the front channels at least. Even better, the op-amps following the DACs are in sockets, to allow for op-amp upgrading. This means we could couple directly to the output of the DAC by inserting a DIP header into the op-amp socket and taking the signal out directly, just as we have (mostly) done in the PS1.
So, once again the old hobby continues,but at a new level and with the same family of DAC processors. I am sure there will be problems with this.. not the least noise introduced into the sound card from the graphics card and the power supply but there will be a way around it.. even if I have to mount the new sound card outboard.
Hi George, also the well known E-MU 0404 (USB or PCI) has a AKM 4396 DAC inside.
Another DAC
Has anyone tried the Twisted pear Buffalo-II DAC.
It uses the New Sabre 32 chip - the same one that Oppo uses in their top of the line product.
OPPO BDP-95 Blu-ray Disc Player
It isn't totally DIY but could be quite well suited for use in a complete system build.
Has anyone tried the Twisted pear Buffalo-II DAC.
It uses the New Sabre 32 chip - the same one that Oppo uses in their top of the line product.
OPPO BDP-95 Blu-ray Disc Player
It isn't totally DIY but could be quite well suited for use in a complete system build.
Does anybody know what the name of this component is? It's the black thing in the middle of the photo with copper coiled in it. I can only guess it's some sort of transformer.
The reason I ask is because I had received a CD player and this component in it is broken. I have many many PS1's and I wonder if it's possible to take one from a PS1 and use it in the broken CD player. By broken I mean it has snapped.
What is it's name and are they a one size fits all type of thing that is interchangeable?
The reason I ask is because I had received a CD player and this component in it is broken. I have many many PS1's and I wonder if it's possible to take one from a PS1 and use it in the broken CD player. By broken I mean it has snapped.
What is it's name and are they a one size fits all type of thing that is interchangeable?