Playstation as CD-player

Re: A Transient Fault

georgebrooke said:
A few days ago I was listening to my converted PS1. Somehow it had got itself it to a strange mode. Everything sounded thin and as if there was added reverb.
I wasted some time looking for loops and so on, until the old PC trick of turning it off and then on was tried. This put everything back to normal.... but what was going on? Has anyone else experienced this kind of fault, it is entirely new to me from any CD player. At a guess the DAC had got into a strange state but does anyone know for sure?


The playstation has a few "effects" built in. It's possible you may have accessed these accidentally. Plug into a tv and you can see the options, they all sound bad (unless you want that "hifi in a church" sound).
 
Ziggy,
Where did you get your Hammond 124d from in Australia im over in Melbourne.
Would like to see a couple of photo's of your work as i'm just starting mine.
hugomac8@tpg.com.au
Cheers
Hugo
 

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PSU Voltages

Hi,
I am just starting my outboard PSU tests under load. Without load, the supply is spot on 3.6V. Once connected to the CD deck, this drops to around 3V.
Can anyone tell me if this is in line with expectations... I am kind of surprised after all the regulation of the supplies.
The player is just undergoing a soak test to check on any overheating, so I have not had a chance to actually play it yet

George
 
free Playstation (with conditions) ?

OK - I have accumulated a number of working playstation 1's which are surplus to my requirements. I am happy to give these away for free, but there are some conditions :

1) You collect, I don't want to post these. I live in Fleet, Hampshire, UK. I work in Reading, Berkshire, UK so happy to arrange collection from Thames Valley Park if that is easier

2) None are the desirable SCPH 1002 models

3) Some are just the basic unit without controller , mains lead or audio adapter

email me if you are interested and happy with the above conditions.

jonathanDOTivesATgmailDOTcom
 
State of Play

Well, I am assuming that the second rectifier (BD243C) is shot. Since my external power supplies are adjustable, I have simply redialled the voltage from the separate PSU box. Now all is working and the PS1 runs extremely cool.

As for the sound. Since I built in a pre-amp with its own decoupling capacitor on its input, I could see no reason to use the capacitor / resistor filter on the DAC output of the PS1, so the DAC is now fed directly to the preamp. There is a clear difference in the sound. I seem to have more detail and depth, and a much drier sound, less boomy.

The situation now is that I am burning it all in. I may resurrect the second rectifier later (when Maplin have some BD243Cs in stock) but right now I like the sound and the lack of heat.

The remote control is integrated into the external box and apart from turning on the occasional strange sound effects, works very well. All in all this has been a lot of fun... now resting until burn-in has finished. Thanks to all for the advice and help en route.
 
Hi everybody, I've just bought a scph1001 (about U$10), I have removed the modchip, and adjust the laser alignment, however the value of 11,4 mv given by Mick doesn't work for me, the lens goes up and down, but couldn't reed. Making test, it appears to work fine with 14,3 mv.

Now I pretend to modify the rca audio output stage (with external jacks) and I have the following doubts:

Is it necesary to take out the muting transistors?. Another thing is that in Mick's web it appears how to calculate the values of the resistors and capacitors, however, it don’t mention nothing about the value of the voltajes of capacitors (how you calculate that?, it is important?), for example I saw a modification that used Russian 4,7uf K75-10 PIO caps, what’s the voltage value of them?. Thanks!!

pd; sorry about my english.
 
fangio said:
Hi everybody, I've just bought a scph1001 (about U$10), I have removed the modchip, and adjust the laser alignment, however the value of 11,4 mv given by Mick doesn't work for me, the lens goes up and down, but couldn't reed. Making test, it appears to work fine with 14,3 mv.

That should be fine. With some laser units, age has decreased their effective intensity level, so it is not a problem to increase the power to the laser. However, keep in mind that a higher voltage could shorten the laser life a bit. I've had to do this with a couple of my Playstations and they've worked fine.

fangio said:
Now I pretend to modify the rca audio output stage (with external jacks) and I have the following doubts:

Is it necesary to take out the muting transistors?. Another thing is that in Mick's web it appears how to calculate the values of the resistors and capacitors, however, it don’t mention nothing about the value of the voltajes of capacitors (how you calculate that?, it is important?), for example I saw a modification that used Russian 4,7uf K75-10 PIO caps, what’s the voltage value of them?. Thanks!!

pd; sorry about my english.

No need to apologize for your English; it's completely clear to me what you are asking.

I removed the muting transistors just in case there could be a grounding issue that could interfere with the sound quality. Removing them per Mick's instructions is a relatively easy task if you use a small screwdriver and soldering iron. Simply heat the single lead on one side and use a small screwdriver to lift the transistor. I completely removed them by heating the other two leads and used a small screwdriver to lift and move the transistor off the pads.

The output signal is less than 2 volts, so a capacitor rated at 10 volts or higher is safe. I used 4.7uF/25 volt Elna Silmic II electrolytic caps with 22kohm 1/4 watt metallized film resistors on my output stage mods, and it sounds perfectly fine. The Russian K75-10 PIO caps should be okay.
 
Re: sony playstation cd player...

pozo1992 said:
Hi gents,

The older version (SCPH1002) has got RCA jacks, the others do not. I would say that to my ears the 1002 version sounds best.

Pozo1992


thanks will have to try to get one. It does have the play and stop button?

Nanook said:
well I did manage to get the old playstation for $16 USD

Separate on-board power supply, RCA outputs (+digital out). It sounds surprisingly good, much better than it should.

Apparently nothing else need be done, except perhaps an 5" LCD screen (found one for $20USD) so I can see what I'm doing.

I don't need a screen to control the unit?, right?

thanks

gychang
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2004
Well,..........many weeks down the track and the Playstation CD player with step up output transformers(I went back to the 600ohm : 10k Altronics ones) and the sound is better than ever : amazing clarity ;)

Will try battery supply with 2 regulators tomorrow.
I'll report back on my results:cool:
 
With all this very positive talk of using transformers at the output (and I agree with this from using some on the 'BIG' chinese DAC project on another thread) isn't it even better still to just wire directly to the output phonos? Nothing to colour the sound then.

Most pre-amps have DC blocking coupling caps on the inputs anyway so - in theory - shouldn't this be a better way of doing things? (good though the transformers are)??

Cheers,

- John
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2004
Yes, John.....that's true. I did it because the output from the DAC is so low. The transformers provide considerably more gain and some ''grunt'' so that less amplifier volume is required.

I am actually surprised how good even cheap transformers sound - quite transparent, especially when devoid of D.C.

Any opamp, I have found, no matter how good, or any discrete solid state or tube output stage has left an obvious coloration or ''signature'' in my experiences with the Playstation output.

So, has anyone used BATTERY POWER on their Playstation and would like to report back their impressions?
 
Hi Everyone,

Just got a 1002 & after a few hours of use there seems to be a lot of static or crackle even on brand new CD's, i then went back to my PS3 with a DAC & it was so much better. Am i missing something or do you have to modify the path from the DAC straight to the RCA's on the back to get the great sound, there's no bass. Is the laser gone or do i have to align it better?

Hugomac