As Buckapound mentioned, the small Polypropylene caps should fit in the chassis. You can balance capacitance with resistance on the output filter to find an appropriate size and cut-off frequency that works for you.
I also plan to experiment with Elna RFS Silmic II electrolytic caps. I've been told that they are really nice caps. I am just not sure if they are good for signal coupling applications. Anyway, Digi-Key in the U.S. carries them (Elna RFS-25V4R7ME3#) for about $0.15/pc.
I also plan to experiment with Elna RFS Silmic II electrolytic caps. I've been told that they are really nice caps. I am just not sure if they are good for signal coupling applications. Anyway, Digi-Key in the U.S. carries them (Elna RFS-25V4R7ME3#) for about $0.15/pc.
Ahhh some of the magic is back, I happened to have some Erse 4.7uf Pulse caps for a speaker project I"m working on, so I figured lets give it a shot... outstanding, smooth highs, vocals had much more depth to them, and the low end came back.. it may be a tad too smooth on the highs, but I'm going to try a few different caps and see what I end up with.. Thanks for the help guys!
Mick's Mods
I have gathered Mick Feuerbacher's Mods and put them together into one Open Source PDF Document so it's easier to read through and use as a guide while working your work bench.
The only problem is, that it's 61 pages long. But has nice big picture's for those who can't read(like myself
). I wanted to put it up here, but it's way too large, and I don't know if Mick would be happy about it(is that O.K?).
But if someone else wants to have it they can. I could email to them, but it's 42Mb. Does anyone know how to compress this down, I have tried zip, but didn't seem to do much.
Brett
I have gathered Mick Feuerbacher's Mods and put them together into one Open Source PDF Document so it's easier to read through and use as a guide while working your work bench.
The only problem is, that it's 61 pages long. But has nice big picture's for those who can't read(like myself
). I wanted to put it up here, but it's way too large, and I don't know if Mick would be happy about it(is that O.K?).But if someone else wants to have it they can. I could email to them, but it's 42Mb. Does anyone know how to compress this down, I have tried zip, but didn't seem to do much.
Brett
Re: Mick's Mods
Open it up in Adobe, Click "File" and the 10th entry down (on my version of Acrobat professional) is "reduce file size," which you should click. It then gives you an option for the version of Adobe to make it compatible with- chose the most current for max compression (version 7 and later). Save the file and you will see it is much smaller...turned an 8 MB into a 4 for me earlier today, but depends on content.
You may need the full version of adobe, not just the reader...but I'm not sure.
enzedone said:
Open it up in Adobe, Click "File" and the 10th entry down (on my version of Acrobat professional) is "reduce file size," which you should click. It then gives you an option for the version of Adobe to make it compatible with- chose the most current for max compression (version 7 and later). Save the file and you will see it is much smaller...turned an 8 MB into a 4 for me earlier today, but depends on content.
You may need the full version of adobe, not just the reader...but I'm not sure.
I just got a bunch of BAM laser modules from these guys:
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-c-259_512.html
I bought 6 pcs. and the shipment was about $20 via FedEx.
Took 7 days from HK to Norway!
The modules are not NOS, but recent manufacture as far as I can see. I do not have an original BAM module to compare with. The quality looks absolutely OK. The laser guides are in metal.
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-c-259_512.html
I bought 6 pcs. and the shipment was about $20 via FedEx.
Took 7 days from HK to Norway!
The modules are not NOS, but recent manufacture as far as I can see. I do not have an original BAM module to compare with. The quality looks absolutely OK. The laser guides are in metal.
Looking for flat cable connectors for PSU
I am recasing my Playstation to put more distance between the power supply and the motherboard and laser unit; however, I have had a problem locating a flat cable connector with 2mm pitch (pin spacing) that Mick Feuerbach shows in his Web site:
http://www.dogbreath.de/PS1/RecasingPSU/RecasingPSU.html
I had no problems finding a cable connector with 2.5mm pitch for connection to the motherboard. I just need the 2mm pitch connector for the PSU side. Can anyone help?
Thanks
P.S. It's been over a month and the upgraded power supply caps really do make a difference once the caps have time to settle in. I can definitely hear details and tonal textures I hadn't heard before. It just makes an overall improvement to the musical sound quality of the Playstation.
I am recasing my Playstation to put more distance between the power supply and the motherboard and laser unit; however, I have had a problem locating a flat cable connector with 2mm pitch (pin spacing) that Mick Feuerbach shows in his Web site:
http://www.dogbreath.de/PS1/RecasingPSU/RecasingPSU.html
I had no problems finding a cable connector with 2.5mm pitch for connection to the motherboard. I just need the 2mm pitch connector for the PSU side. Can anyone help?
Thanks
P.S. It's been over a month and the upgraded power supply caps really do make a difference once the caps have time to settle in. I can definitely hear details and tonal textures I hadn't heard before. It just makes an overall improvement to the musical sound quality of the Playstation.
Hi Rich and others!
My new PS Audio Power Cord arrived as well as my new(old) WireWorld Equinox III Cable and the difference with each one was noticeable. The RCA make a huge impact vs. my other cables and the Power Punch added some depth and bass slam never heard before. More details and decays and the mids get more present ( the RCA has more to do with this).
I would like to do the recaising and improved power supply mods but have two left hands
Take care...
Jose
My new PS Audio Power Cord arrived as well as my new(old) WireWorld Equinox III Cable and the difference with each one was noticeable. The RCA make a huge impact vs. my other cables and the Power Punch added some depth and bass slam never heard before. More details and decays and the mids get more present ( the RCA has more to do with this).
I would like to do the recaising and improved power supply mods but have two left hands
Take care...
Jose
I have just recently purchased a KSM-440BAM from richspsxparts which is total junk. I have e-mailed him and am waiting a reply. The sleds look plastic as well. It looks to me like a refurb of a KSM-440ACM with a BAM cover.
I will let you know how it goes.
How well does this work?
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-ksm440bam-laser-assembly-p-2769.html
I will let you know how it goes.
How well does this work?
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-ksm440bam-laser-assembly-p-2769.html
I had recently ordered a KSM-440BAM from richspsxparts and it came very quickly. But the unit itself was far from excellent. It had such problems reading discs even after calibrating. The sled was made of plastic not metal the way it should. It seemed as if it was a refurb KSM-440ACM with a BAM cover.
I have emailed him about this issue yesterday. I will let you know what comes about it.
Also, Bequerel how are these I just ordered one.
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-c-259_512.html
Is the performance well and is the quality good?
I have emailed him about this issue yesterday. I will let you know what comes about it.
Also, Bequerel how are these I just ordered one.
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-playstation-c-259_512.html
Is the performance well and is the quality good?
icon0319 said:
Yes, I bought a bunch of them since they were almost free. Very quick shipment and excellent service. However, I am quite new to the PS1 game so I cannot comment on the quality. (I do not have anything to compare with.) I also bought one sample at 3x the price from an Austrian PS1 parts supplier, and this unit looks the same as the Chinese ones.
As far as I can see, the ones that I got from Hong Kong look like the real deal:
http://www.playfidelity.com/lasereinheit/ksm_440_bam/index_ger.html
One question:
The DAC chip in my PS1 runs at 3.55V. Would 3.3V be too low? Reason I am asking is that there are a lot of high precision regs for 3.3V available. It would be easy to have a separate regulator for the analog and digital sections.
Need Help Identifying an SMD Component
I was modding the output stage of a spare Playstation One Model SCPH-1001. While I was attempting to remove a small SMD cap from the motherboard, I also accidentally damaged the larger SMD component mounted next to it.
Here is a picture of the SMD cap on the left and the larger mystery SMC component to the right. This is a photo from Mick Feuerbacher's Web site . I believe it is either an inductor or transformer; I really can't tell. It has six leads (three on one end and three on the other). All I know is that I have ground hum in both channels with this piece off the board. I might try to jumper the SMD pads and see if this will eliminate the hum.
Can anyone help me identify this SMD part? Also, I will need to know where to purchase a replacement.
Thanks
I was modding the output stage of a spare Playstation One Model SCPH-1001. While I was attempting to remove a small SMD cap from the motherboard, I also accidentally damaged the larger SMD component mounted next to it.
Here is a picture of the SMD cap on the left and the larger mystery SMC component to the right. This is a photo from Mick Feuerbacher's Web site . I believe it is either an inductor or transformer; I really can't tell. It has six leads (three on one end and three on the other). All I know is that I have ground hum in both channels with this piece off the board. I might try to jumper the SMD pads and see if this will eliminate the hum.
Can anyone help me identify this SMD part? Also, I will need to know where to purchase a replacement.
Thanks
Attachments
Re: Need Help Identifying an SMD Component
Ah yes - the mysterious 1001: a playstation odyssey monolith.
This device is used when the TV connector is plugged in. It down mixes the stereo for a mono TV, and is only engaged when you use the original UHF TV connector with integral sound jack. There is some discussion of it early on in the old testament part of this thread. I would think you could remove it and jumper the relevant connections.
rhing said:
Ah yes - the mysterious 1001: a playstation odyssey monolith.
This device is used when the TV connector is plugged in. It down mixes the stereo for a mono TV, and is only engaged when you use the original UHF TV connector with integral sound jack. There is some discussion of it early on in the old testament part of this thread. I would think you could remove it and jumper the relevant connections.
Might not be able to simply jump pads here
I am still trying to eliminate the hum after accidentally removing the larger SMD component that has been identified as some sort of capacitor device (3 x 15uF) used to mix down the right and left channels when the video jack is engaged (Post# 1777). So what kind of 15uF capacitor should I use to replace the connection between the "RCA negative" and ground? I would like to avoid using an SMD component, but I am not sure if a compact electrolytic will work here.
DreadPirate said:
I am still trying to eliminate the hum after accidentally removing the larger SMD component that has been identified as some sort of capacitor device (3 x 15uF) used to mix down the right and left channels when the video jack is engaged (Post# 1777). So what kind of 15uF capacitor should I use to replace the connection between the "RCA negative" and ground? I would like to avoid using an SMD component, but I am not sure if a compact electrolytic will work here.
It's not MONO when the video jack is connected, the PlayStation is a gaming console, and is supposed to have the TV out connected at all times.
On the RCA jacks, ground is going to ground, period. If the SMD channel mixer is removed, left signal should go to left, right should go to right, but you'll see the R jack has three pads: Ground, Signal, Switch. It detects if there's something connected to the R jack to let the SMD 6-pin switch mix the channels or not. If you get no audio output with one of the R jack pads, try the other one.
On the RCA jacks, ground is going to ground, period. If the SMD channel mixer is removed, left signal should go to left, right should go to right, but you'll see the R jack has three pads: Ground, Signal, Switch. It detects if there's something connected to the R jack to let the SMD 6-pin switch mix the channels or not. If you get no audio output with one of the R jack pads, try the other one.