Playstation as CD-player

mluckow said:
Lostcause, thanks very much for the very fast and helpful reply! ;-)

That's just what I needed to know. I'll go back and look at the early pages of this thread for more details. I'm definitely not opposed to the idea of modding. Are the modding discussions in this thread, too? I'm currently building a SimpleSE amp, Zigmahornet speakers, White Lightning Moonshine speaker cables and ICs, and it's all great fun with a wonderful outcome. I only wish I had discovered audiophilia (?) earlier.

Thanks again.

Mike

Your best resource for modding the Playstation 1 Model SCPH-100X (X=1 for North America, =2 for Europe, etc.) is Mick Feuerbacher's Website
http://www.dogbreath.de/PS1/index.html. Mick's Website covers the knowledge that he has accumulated along with other contributors from this forum thread. I would recommend starting there, and if you wish, you can go through the many pages of posts on this thread later.

As for your other DIY projects, the SimpleSE amp with EL34 tubes is a great start in DIY SET amplifiers. I plan on rolling my own White Lightning Moonshine speaker cables and interconnects soon myself. Enjoy!
 
rhing,

Thanks for the information and that link. I'll definitely use that if/when I get my hands on one of them. It turns out that a neighbor kid has a PS1 that he hasn't used in years and wants to sell to me, but he's not sure if it's a SCPH-100X or not. I'll find out tomorrow, hopefully.

We decided to use Tung Sol 6550 tubes in our SimpleSE amp, and I'm not really familiar with how they're different from the EL34 tubes. Do you think the EL34 tubes are better in some way?

As for the White Lightning Moonshine cables, a very experienced audiophile friend of mine recommended to me to use one whole cable per channel. In other words, positive gets one cable (with 3 conductors in it, twisted together), and negative gets a separate one, too (so two cables go to each speaker). I was thinking that it would be weird to have two conductors for positive and one for negative, but his suggestion solves that problem perfectly.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions!

Mike
 
mluckow said:
rhing,

Thanks for the information and that link. I'll definitely use that if/when I get my hands on one of them. It turns out that a neighbor kid has a PS1 that he hasn't used in years and wants to sell to me, but he's not sure if it's a SCPH-100X or not. I'll find out tomorrow, hopefully.

We decided to use Tung Sol 6550 tubes in our SimpleSE amp, and I'm not really familiar with how they're different from the EL34 tubes. Do you think the EL34 tubes are better in some way?

As for the White Lightning Moonshine cables, a very experienced audiophile friend of mine recommended to me to use one whole cable per channel. In other words, positive gets one cable (with 3 conductors in it, twisted together), and negative gets a separate one, too (so two cables go to each speaker). I was thinking that it would be weird to have two conductors for positive and one for negative, but his suggestion solves that problem perfectly.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions!

Mike


The SCPH-100X has a more complex output circuit and RCA sockets in the back. However as Micks Mod basically takes the audio directly from the DAC, you should be able to achieve similar results with most vintages of player and you'll find in this thread people who argue that later players have some advantages, for example the layout of the cabling is further from the switched mode supply (probably a good thing).

I've not checked out the moonshine cables, but I can recommend CAT5 data cabling as a good value speaker cable, either in single or double runs, twist together all the solid colours and all the banded ones, that way you exploit the twisted pair topology. I also find that CAT5 cables breed in the dark, so if you leave a length in a drawer, in a few weeks you'll find 2 lengths in there :)
 
jives11 said:



The SCPH-100X has a more complex output circuit and RCA sockets in the back. However as Micks Mod basically takes the audio directly from the DAC, you should be able to achieve similar results with most vintages of player and you'll find in this thread people who argue that later players have some advantages, for example the layout of the cabling is further from the switched mode supply (probably a good thing).


I started playing with a 1002 and found:

1. The onboard decoupling and coupling caps are rubbish. the 1 kHz measurements of C give only i/2 the vales and with near 1 DAs!

2. The main board is well shielded from the supply.

3. Replacing the coupling cap to the AV out socket with a BGN vastly improved sound.

4. Replacing the 7.6V PS decoupling caps with Rubycon ZAs removed the remaining hint of 'distortion' heard compared to a high end CD player.

I am looking for a service manual to try to trace properly the PS and signal paths. Anyone has one?

It would be interesting to get a spdif signal out to see how good a transport this is. The dac is a bit low end.

A stack of 30 CDs in a round PC CDR stack on top of a round mouse pad on top of the CD drive helps considerably.


:smash: :smash: :smash:
 
john blackburn said:
Im soon to be starting the linear power supply for my 1002 but cant find a supplier for the MSR860 diodes.

Is there a suitable replacement for the MSR or does anyone know of a supplier for them that Google isn't finding?


Hi John, Farnell stock them, here .The picture shows three legs but they do only have two..

I hope you have more luck than me building it, I just can't eliminate a hum on the 3.6V side that can be heard at high volume. :confused:
I did build it using Mick's original design with only one stage voltage reduction...
Good Luck..
 
The one site I didn't check! I normally use either RS, Cricklewood Electronics or Rapid and have never used Farnell. Theres a first time for everything mindst.

The Playstation is used in a smallish room with LM3875 and CSS FR125s. It only goes "loud" when the neighbours need "training" about their screeching children and blaring tv/cd! Theres something wrong about having Wailing Whitney Houston coming through the wall and interfering with the Sex Pistols (sounds like bad acid to me)

Is your buzz audible in normal nearfield type volume levels or is it just when you are going to eleven?

Cheers John
 
It is a sort of fizzing buzz and is probably due to poor board layout. I haven't got as far as to use it on my main Playstation/system yet which is LM3875 with Monitor Audio GR10's.
I have tried separate trans' and different voltages but nothing makes a difference..:confused:
 

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Nice! I wasn't thinking of re casing the playstation, just improving on the power supply. Mine still has the £10 price sticker from the pawnbroker shop stuck to it. It appeals to my "frugal" nature.

I think I recall you saying that you had problems with the circuit, I will re read the thread before going any further.

Anyone else got any input on this?

John