Hi,
I'm quite new on this thread but it seems that you face a power up problem. I have build a CD player based on CDPRO2 unit some years ago. This unit is powered with +5V (controls and DAC) and +9V (servos). If my memory is good, the specs say that at power ON the +5V must come first and the +9V after if not the CD is not working fine and sometimes the CD can spin backward! at power OFF the +9V must come down first. I guess that it's is the same for the PS1. Hope this will help.
Vincent
Vincent, thanks for your contribution.
I dont think that there is an issue with the order of the voltage supplies for the PS1. I believe so, because there are no circuits on the smps board that handle this. So the stock PS1 starts up supplying all voltages at a time.
A question to you as an owner of a CD2pro and a Ps1 based CD player: how do they compare soundwise?
Mick
I dont think that there is an issue with the order of the voltage supplies for the PS1. I believe so, because there are no circuits on the smps board that handle this. So the stock PS1 starts up supplying all voltages at a time.
A question to you as an owner of a CD2pro and a Ps1 based CD player: how do they compare soundwise?
Mick
Hi Mick,
On my CDPro2 the circuit which output the reset signal at power ON is located on the display board! On PS1 the circuit which generate reset signal at power ON can be located elsewhere and not necessarily on smps board. My first power supply design for CDpro2 did not take into consideration Power Up sequence and I faced problem. May I suggest that people who face intermittent problem at power up with their linear power supply make a manual reset by using the reset button, if this solve their problem this mean that there is a power up sequence in the PS1. This is my suggestion but I am new to PS1 and Mick's opinion must be considered first.
About PS1 versus CDpro2 sound comparison please give me some listening sessions I will be back soon for that. Today I try to get rid of the TV set that must be connected to PS1 to navigate thru the menu!
Vincent
On my CDPro2 the circuit which output the reset signal at power ON is located on the display board! On PS1 the circuit which generate reset signal at power ON can be located elsewhere and not necessarily on smps board. My first power supply design for CDpro2 did not take into consideration Power Up sequence and I faced problem. May I suggest that people who face intermittent problem at power up with their linear power supply make a manual reset by using the reset button, if this solve their problem this mean that there is a power up sequence in the PS1. This is my suggestion but I am new to PS1 and Mick's opinion must be considered first.
About PS1 versus CDpro2 sound comparison please give me some listening sessions I will be back soon for that. Today I try to get rid of the TV set that must be connected to PS1 to navigate thru the menu!
Vincent
I have had a frustrating morning. Finished my power supply and connected it to an unmodified 5552. Everything worked and listening from the A/V out it sounded pretty damn good.
However when I connected up to my modded 5552 it went through the initial turn on sequence and then just span the disc constantly. The pad controls would not work. I thought that perhaps the white wire needed some juice and gave it a couple of volts. No difference.
Went back to the un-modded 5552 and set it up again and it was fine,went away for 10 mins, came and the disc was spinning and the pad controls would not work !!!
I was constantly checking the DC levels and found that they were fluctuating quite a bit (down from 7.6 to 6.5 and 3.6 down to 2.6) could fluctuating current cause these problems ?
I made the boards from a kit that can take up to to 35 volts DC. the trim pot is 4K7. The fairly large heat sinks I have used get quite hot to touch.
Any ideas anyone ?
However when I connected up to my modded 5552 it went through the initial turn on sequence and then just span the disc constantly. The pad controls would not work. I thought that perhaps the white wire needed some juice and gave it a couple of volts. No difference.
Went back to the un-modded 5552 and set it up again and it was fine,went away for 10 mins, came and the disc was spinning and the pad controls would not work !!!
I was constantly checking the DC levels and found that they were fluctuating quite a bit (down from 7.6 to 6.5 and 3.6 down to 2.6) could fluctuating current cause these problems ?
I made the boards from a kit that can take up to to 35 volts DC. the trim pot is 4K7. The fairly large heat sinks I have used get quite hot to touch.
Any ideas anyone ?
Pieroh. You could be right. I have now had it running for some hours and it is behaving impeccably !, but tommorrow is another day !
I have also found that the modified PS1 sounds better as a result of the mods than the unmodified, probably as a result of the limitations in the original power supply. The only PS1 (I have 3) that the new power supply will work with is unmodified. However using the A/V out, and linear PS it sounds as good, if not better than the modified with SMPS power supply ?!
I have also found that the modified PS1 sounds better as a result of the mods than the unmodified, probably as a result of the limitations in the original power supply. The only PS1 (I have 3) that the new power supply will work with is unmodified. However using the A/V out, and linear PS it sounds as good, if not better than the modified with SMPS power supply ?!
Hi
I was looking at the diagram for the
psu connections and see that according
to this pin 5 is always connected once
the power supply is plugged into the mains.
So if when making a new PSU for the 1002
would you say having a delay solenoid that
switches the other lines on once the new
custom mains switch for the LM317 based
PSU is activated? On the standard PSU
is Pin 5 always alive when the cord is
in the back of the player?
regards
AnthonyPT
I was looking at the diagram for the
psu connections and see that according
to this pin 5 is always connected once
the power supply is plugged into the mains.
So if when making a new PSU for the 1002
would you say having a delay solenoid that
switches the other lines on once the new
custom mains switch for the LM317 based
PSU is activated? On the standard PSU
is Pin 5 always alive when the cord is
in the back of the player?
regards
AnthonyPT
Attachments
Hi
If the SMPS PSU does sequence the power to the
pins at start up on some 1002/1001s, maybe it is
a generation thing. So early ones needed the sequence then
the later ones did not due to improvements to the Mother board.
NB Just a theory
-)) The following maybe wrong!
_________
So plug SMPS PSU Pin 5 gets voltage (bypassed switch)
Then when you turn PSU on and Green Led lights first
3.6v connects then 7.6 volt connects moments after. This is for Ps1 1002/1002 early models
Pin 5 (on with cable 3.6v)
Pin 3 & Pin7 (when power switch is switched on)
Pin 1 7.6v a few millisec after.
So if we emulate this if it is correct all PS1 1001/1002s should
work no probs. I guess try it and see!
Another clue might be if the later PS1 power supplies with
the moved trannie with the heatsink will not work in the
earlier 1002/1001s with the SMPS power supplies with the
trannie nearer the laser aseembly that ran hot! In practice I have
not found this but there maybe oter factors. Needs more investigation as why would some
work and others just not do a thing!
Regards
AnthonyPT
If the SMPS PSU does sequence the power to the
pins at start up on some 1002/1001s, maybe it is
a generation thing. So early ones needed the sequence then
the later ones did not due to improvements to the Mother board.
NB Just a theory
-)) The following maybe wrong!_________
So plug SMPS PSU Pin 5 gets voltage (bypassed switch)
Then when you turn PSU on and Green Led lights first
3.6v connects then 7.6 volt connects moments after. This is for Ps1 1002/1002 early models
Pin 5 (on with cable 3.6v)
Pin 3 & Pin7 (when power switch is switched on)
Pin 1 7.6v a few millisec after.
So if we emulate this if it is correct all PS1 1001/1002s should
work no probs. I guess try it and see!
Another clue might be if the later PS1 power supplies with
the moved trannie with the heatsink will not work in the
earlier 1002/1001s with the SMPS power supplies with the
trannie nearer the laser aseembly that ran hot! In practice I have
not found this but there maybe oter factors. Needs more investigation as why would some
work and others just not do a thing!
Regards
AnthonyPT
Hi Puffin
This PSU thing was very much a 1002 thing.
It probably does not happen with 5502_5552 etc.
At the moment I only have early Psu 1002s as I gave
away the ones with the later power supplies to other
friends etc as presents.
I cannot check the theory out and if I did would want
LM317 PSUs and old and newer PSu based 1002s tto test.
To identify the PSUs I enclose a picture. Old and hot
on the top and new and cooler underneath,
Hope this is of use.
regards
AnthonyPT
This PSU thing was very much a 1002 thing.
It probably does not happen with 5502_5552 etc.
At the moment I only have early Psu 1002s as I gave
away the ones with the later power supplies to other
friends etc as presents.
I cannot check the theory out and if I did would want
LM317 PSUs and old and newer PSu based 1002s tto test.
To identify the PSUs I enclose a picture. Old and hot
on the top and new and cooler underneath,
Hope this is of use.
regards
AnthonyPT
Attachments
Morning @ all,
i checked if there is a difference between using a PS with 3 LM317 or two in serious whan using battery supply. For me it makes no sound differences.
@ Puffin
I find out that if the LM317 gets to hot the power is switched off an on so maby if your PS playes only 10 minutes maby the LM317 is getting to hot ?
@ Pieroh
Thanks for the information about low leveling the battery power. I think i can`t use a charger with low level protection because i switch off the charger power when playing cd`s. I now think about a circuit with a (Zehnerdiode ???? ) diode. My problem is to prevent switching on and off from the diode because with no load the battery power increase and cause the diode to switch on the power again and vice versa. But i will find a way
I hope you understood my posting because my english is not verry good as you can see :-(
can you please post your settings for gain and bias ? I ask because of the problem with skipping the CD at up. Did you bolt the laserunit ?
BR Dommi
i checked if there is a difference between using a PS with 3 LM317 or two in serious whan using battery supply. For me it makes no sound differences.
@ Puffin
I find out that if the LM317 gets to hot the power is switched off an on so maby if your PS playes only 10 minutes maby the LM317 is getting to hot ?
@ Pieroh
Thanks for the information about low leveling the battery power. I think i can`t use a charger with low level protection because i switch off the charger power when playing cd`s. I now think about a circuit with a (Zehnerdiode ???? ) diode. My problem is to prevent switching on and off from the diode because with no load the battery power increase and cause the diode to switch on the power again and vice versa. But i will find a way
I hope you understood my posting because my english is not verry good as you can see :-(
can you please post your settings for gain and bias ? I ask because of the problem with skipping the CD at up. Did you bolt the laserunit ?
BR Dommi
My latest playstation cd player, just filled the side vents and controller ports with bog to give it a better look, painted black and installer an ir reciever inside. I have 3,3uf caps directly to the rca plugs with 30k ohms to ground.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
